Travels in Western Africa, in 1845 & 1846: Comprising a Journey from Whydah ...

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TRAVELS

IN WESTERN AFRICA,

IN 1845 & 1846,

C0MP&I8INO

A JOURNEY FROM WHYDAH,
THROUGH THE KINGDOM OF DAHOMEY,

TO ADOEOODIA,

IN THX iHTxaioa.

BY JOHN DUNCAN,

tXTE 01 TBI TIKST LIIE OVASDS, ADS OHS OV TBI
LATE laOU XXrKDIItOH.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON :

RICHARD BBNTLET, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
9ttblui)rt in ^rtinots to Aetr ^Itottfts.

1847.

AUG 19 1918 n

•«•?

. I

LONDON :
R CLA7, FllIKTER, BREAD STREET -HILL.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

k

CHAPTER I.

The Zafidah Mountains— Zoogah — Reception by the Caboceer—
Bamay — Its Market — Curiosity of the People — Population —
The Davity Mountains — Daragow — Qualifications for a Cabo-
ceer — ^The River Zoa, or Lagos— Its wooded Banks— Perry —
Superstition — Water-lilies — The Plain set on fire to destroy the
Shea-butter Tree, &c. — ^Valley of Dimodicea-takoo — Kootok-
pway — Gbowelley Mountain — ^Romantic Sceneiy — Hospitable
Reception— The Mahees— Their total Defeat by the Dahomans
— Ascent of the Mountain — Ruins of a Town — Skeletons of
the Slain — Soil — Twisted Rock— Mineral Springs — Agbowa —
Herds of Cattle— Paweea, its healthy Situation — Palaver with
the Caboceer — Description of him— His Hospitality — ^The
Markets— Guinea Com— Natives good Farmers — Cloth Manu-
fiMJture— Native Loom — Hardware — Hyaena Trap — Admiration
of my Sword — ^Review of native Soldiers— Population . page 1

CHAPTER II.

The Caboceer's Kindness to my Servant — Presents — Names of
Caboceer, &c. — Granite Mountains— Tanks — The Adita — Soil —
The Tawee — Mountains — Grain and Vegetables — The Zoglogbo
Mountain — ^Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo— Ascent

[

IV CONTENTS.

of the Mountain — Cotton-trees — Mountain-pass — Singular
Situation of the Town — Houses — Dahoman Political Agent —
Probable Origin of the Mountain — Kpaloko Mountain — Igno-
rance, assumed or real, of the neighbouring Country by the
Natives — The Dabadab Mountains — Superstition — Singular
Method of conveying Cattle — Cruelty to the Brute Creation —
Difficult Descent — ^Agriculture and Manufactures — Height of
the Mountains — Death of Three Kings at Zoglogbo — Names of
the Caboceer, &c. — Reception at Bafib — Costume of Caboceer
and his Wife — His Principal Wives — Beautiful Birds — Gigantic
Trees — Parasitical Plants — Singular Tree — Soil — Grain, Fruits,
tc. — Cattle — Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer — Goods
exposed for Sale — Rival Caboceers — Game — Pigeon-trap — Trial
of Skill — Dog poisoned — Increasing Illness of my Servant —
The Caboceer's principal Cook 27

CHAPTER III.

The River Loto — ^Jokao Mountain — Jetta — Reception by the
Caboceer — Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko — Its curious
Formation — Its former Importance on account of its Manufac-
tures — Desolating Effects of War — Attachment of the Natives
to particular Spots — Natural Tanks in the Mountains — Mount
Koliko — Precipitous Granite Rock — Similarity to Scottish
Scenery — The Nanamie — Laow, and the Laow Mountain —
Kossieklanan Cascade — Tamargee Mountains — Mineral Spring
— Mount Koglo — Insulting Conduct of the Caboceer — Whagba
— ^Caboceer's Hospitality — the Town — Inhabitants — Kindness
of Athrimy, the Caboceer of Teo — War-Dance — Drunkenness
— Names of the Caboceer, &c. — Game — Curious Pigeons — An
Incident — Absurd Notion — ^Departure from Whagba — Names
of the Caboceer, &c. — Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow
and Massey — Beautiful Valley — Impregnable Position — The
Caboceer of Kpaloko — Grandeur of the Scene — Jeka Houssoo —
The Dabadab Mountains — ^Difficulty in obtaining Information
— Resolve to leave my Attendants — My Scheme — Departure
— Zafoora — Soil, Grain, Trees, Plants, &c. — Shea-butter used
for Ijamps 55

CONTENTS. V

CHAPTER IV.

Zafoora— Terror of the Natives— Cold Reception by the King —
My Disappointment — Exorbitant Charge— Unpleasant Posi-
tion — Palaver with the King— Scene of the Defeat of the
Dahomans— Inhospitality— The Shea-butter, and other Trees
— The Gwbasso — Prevalent Diseases — Soil — The Velvet
Tamarind — ^Wearisome Journey — Akwaba — Cold Reception
by the Caboceer — His Disappointment — Slave Trade — Hard
Bargain — Manufacture of Indigo — Hardware— The Ziffa—
King Chosee and his Cavalry — Their Hostile Attitude — Mo-
ment of Danger — Result of a Firm Demeanour — Respect
shown by the King and Natives — Enter Koma with a Band of
Music — Kind Reception — Introduction to the Kings Wives —
Palaver with the King — The Niger known here as the Joleeba
— Presents to the King — Babakanda — ^Exorbitant Charges for
Provisions — Manufactures — Ginger, Rice, &c. — Seka — Bustle
of the Caboceer — Slave Market — Trade Monopolized by the
Caboceer — The Kolla-nut — Honey — Peto — Palaver with the
Caboceer — Soil — Assofoodah — Hostile Reception — Palaver —
Ridiculous Confusion — Inhospitality 80

CHAPTER V.

Inhospitality — Good Fortune — Soil — ^Mahomedan Town — Hymn
of Welcome — The Natives, their Curiosity, &c. — Manufac-
tures, &c — The Crown-bird domesticated — Quampanissa —
Market Day — Curiosity of the Natives — A Cranery — Market
Constables, their Functions — Singular Musical Instrument —
A Palaver with the Caboceer — Bidassoa — Mishap — A Bivouac
— Reception by the Caboceer — Palm Wine freely taken by
Mahomedans — Superstition of the Natives — Grain Stores —
Manufactures — Buffaloes — Fruit Trees — Horses, their market
price here — Cattl e — Elephants — Manufactures — Game — Me-
thod of Drying Venison — Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c. — Kosow
— Terror of the Native Females — Appearance of the Caboceer
— Palaver — Presents to the Caboceer — His Harem — Swim
across the River Ofo— Its Width, &c.— The Town of Kasso-
Kano — Slave-Market — The Women — Neighbouring Hills —
Iron — Antimony — Native System of smelting Ore — Native
Furnace and Bellows — Roguery — Bivouac 108

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

Peculiar Breed of Dogs — The Town of Zabakano — Market Day
— ^Native Manufactures — Domestic Slaves — Palm Oil — Joleeba,
or Niger — Horses make part of the Family — Pelican Nest —
Pigeons — Kindness of the Gadadoo — Pigeon Shooting —
Palaver with the Gadadoo — Population — Mounted Soldiers
— Character of the Scenery — Grooba — Manufactures — The
Town of Sagbo — Drilling System general here — Two sorts
of Rice — Received by the Gadadoo with great Pomp— Palaver
— Dromedary and Elephant — Prevalent Diseases — The
Town of Jakee — Reception — Ancient Custom— Breakfast of
the Natives — Manu&ctures — Terror of the Natives — Chaly-
beate Springs — The River Jenoo — The Land Tortoise — In-
teresting Panorama — The Town of Kallakandi— Reception by
the Sheik — Palaver— Band of Musicians — Peculiar Instru-
ments — ^Manufactures, &c. — Slave Market — Horses — Laws —
Cruel Punishment-^Population— Attack on a Boa-Constrictor
— Manufactures — ^Deer — Method of Preserving Meat and Pish
— Trap for Wild Animals — Town of Ongo — ^Reception by the
Caboceer — Interesting Aspect of the Country .... 136

CHAPTER VII.

Ongo — Weariness of my Attendants — Bivouac — Alarm of my
Horse at the Neighbourhood of Wild Beasts — Terror of the
Natives — Their Kindness — ^Establishment for Mahomedan
Converts — Singular Custom— My Anxiety to find Terrasso-
weea, who had been present at the Death of Mungo Park —
Loss of my Sand-glass — Its Construction — Adofoodia — The
Market-Place — Reception by the King— Interview with Ter-
rasso-weea — Ceremony of welcoming me — His Stores — Dis-
covery of an Old Acquaintance — Narrative of his Adventures
*— Terrasso-weea's House — His Wives — Inquire of him Particu-
lars of the Fate of Mungo Park — His Relation of the Death
of that Intrepid Traveller — Terrasso-weea an Eye Witness of
it — Park's Property seized by the King — His Despotic Cha-
racter — Flight of Terrasso-weea — My Palaver with the King
— ^Hospitality of the Merchant — Information obtained respect-
ing Timbuctoo— Market of Adofoodia. 163

• •

CONTENTS. Vll

CHAPTER VIII.

Return to Baffo — Anxiety of my Caboceer — Rejoicings for my
Return — Our March — Fine Plain — Plants — Neutral Ground —
Natives of the Dassa Mountains — ^Agriculture — The Annagoos,
dangerous Enemies — Poisoned Arrows — Poisonous Plants —
Alarm of my Attendants on my plucking it — Fatal Effects of
this Plant and Dread of it by the Natives — Number of the
Natives Blind, supposed to be the result of it — Unsucoesflful
Attack on them by the Dahomans — Spiral Rocks — Hostile
Demeanour of the Natives — They follow us with Menaces —
Some Account of these Mountaineers and of the Dassa Moun-
tains — The Blue Eagle — Cataracts — Beautiful Plain — One
of my Cases of Rum broken by a Carrier — Twisted Marble of
Variegated Colours — Path covered with Pepper-trees— Monkeys
— ^Logazohy — Mayho's Town — The Caboceer — The Merchants
— Their Names — Carelessness with respect to Fire — Visit of
the Caboceer 190

CHAPTER IX.

Enter Logazohy in Regimentals — Received by the Caboceer,
attended by his Soldierd — Singular Mode of Dancing — ^Native
Jester — ^Description of the Town — Com Mills — ^Presents from
Fetish-women — Agriculture — Prevalent Diseases — A dis-
gusting Case of Leprosy — Quarrel among my Carriers — ^My
Illness — The Damadomy — Trees, Shrubs — The Agbado —
Rapid Construction of a Suspension Bridge by my Dahoman
Guards — Savalu — ^Reception by the Caboceer — Picturesque
Situation of the Town — Caboceer's House — His Wives — ^Hia
Jester— My Illness 210

CHAPTER X.

Importance of the Caboceer of Savalu — Curiosity of the natives —
State Constables— Military Dance— Introduction to the Fetish-
women — Manufactures — Crane-shooting— Present by Fetish-
women — Hospitality of the Caboceer— His Name and those of

Vlll CONTENTS.

his Head Men—Wild GnpeB— The Zoka —Shrubs —Swim
across the Zoka — Mode of Transporting my Luggage —
Difficulty in getting my Horse across — Fearlessness of the
Dahoman Female Carriers— Bad Roads— Jallakoo—Beception
by the Cabooeer — My Illness — -Appear in Regimentals before
the Caboceer — Concern evinced on account of my Illness —
Description of the Town — Agriculture — Caboceer's Name and
those of his Head Men — Presents to the Caboceer. . . 229

CHAPTER XT.

My continued Illness— The Koffo— The Langhbo_Biyouac— Keep
Sentinel— Shea-butter Trees— Springs impregnated with Iron
— Gijah — Poverty of the Caboceer — Hospitality of Atihoh,
the Merchant — Doko— Met by the Avoga of Wliydah — Eti-
quette with regard to the Time of entering a Town — Enter
Abomey — My Servant Maurice takes to his Bed — Sudden
Change in the Temperature — Visit to the King — His Gra-
tification at my safe Return — My Conversation with his
Mjyesty — His Views with regard to the Slave Trade — His
Desire to cede Whydah to the English Government — Dictates
a Letter to me to that effect — His costly Tobes — Singular
Piece of Patch-Work 263

CHAPTER XII.

Conversation with the King of Dahomey continued — Visit Coo-
massie, another Palace of the King — Great Number of Human
Skulls — Skulls of Kings taken in Battle — Death-drums —
Peculiarity of Skulls — Craniums of the Fellattahs — Skulls of
Rival Kings — Criminal Case heard by the King, and his
Award — Death of my Servant Maurice — Regret of the King-
Christian Burial of my Servant — The King's Kindness to me —
My increasing Illness and Depression of Spirits— Method of Pro-
curing Food in the Bush by the Dahoman Soldiers — My Alarm
at the Dangerous State of my Wound — Make Preparations to
amputate my Limb — My Recovery — My Last Conversation
with the King — The King's Presents to the Queen of England
— Present from him to her Majesty of a Native Girl — Escorted

CONTfiHTS. IX

out of Abomey, and Departure for Whydah — ^Abflord Custom
— Canamina — Ahgrimah — My Pigeons from the Kong
Mountains — Non-Arrival of some of my Carriers — Punish-
ment awarded them for their Bogueiy on their Aniyal . 273

CHAPTEB XIII.

Akpway — Superstition of the Natives — Singular proceeding of
my Bullock-Drivers — Arrival at Whydah — ^Eind Reception by
Don Francisco de Suza — Eindness of all the Merchants — Part-
ing Interview with M. de Suza — Sail for Cape Coast — Terror
of the 3Cahee Girl (presented to the Qoeen) at the Roughness
of the Sea — Arrival at Cape Coast — Kindness of Mr. Button —
Dr. Lilley — Recover from my Fever — Kindness of the Wesleyan
Missionaries— General Character of Africans— Hints with re^ird
to Educating them — Observations on the Manners and Customs
of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries — ^Enlightened
Conduct of the King of Dahomey — The Dahomans — Trade of
Dahomey — Paganism — The Mahees — The Kong Mountains^
Sail for England 293

ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME.

Mode or Execution at Dihovbv .... To fact the Title.

TbE EORa MODSTAlllS, IN TBE NEiaHBOUKHOOD OF

LoOiBOHT p. 219

SlAIB ChAIB of TSX KlKd OF DtHOKET 272

The Eng'a Stuf - - ■ 'S'2

t

TRAVELS

WESTERN AFRICA.

CHAPTER I.

The Zafidah Mountains— Zoogih—KetepUon by the Csboeeer—
BuD&y— Its Market — Curiosity ot the People — Population— -
The I)aTit]r Mountains — Daragow — Qualifications for a Cabo-
ceer — The River Zoa, or Lagos — Its irooded Banks — Ferry —
Superstition— Watefliliea — The Plain set on Firs to dealroy the
Shea-butter Tree, kc. — ^Valley of Dimodicea-lakoo — Kootok-
pwaj — Qbowelley Mountain — Romantic Scenery— Hoapit^le
Beception— The Maheos— Their total Defeat by the Dahomans
— Ascent of the Mountain — Rains of a Town — Skeletons of
the Slain— Soil— Twisted Koek— Mineral Springs— A gbowa—
Horde of Cattle— Paweea, its healthy Situation— Palaver irith
the Caboceer — Description of him — Hie Hospitality — The
Markets- Quiuea Com— Natives good Farmers — Cloth Manu-
tcture— Native Loom — Hardware— Hynna Trap— Admiral ion
of my Snord — Review of native Soldiers — Population.

July lltk— We marched from Setta at 8 a. m. ,
the first high land bearing from the north mde of
the town N. 25" E., and named the Zafidoh moun-
TOL, n, B

2 TRAVELS IN

tains^ distant about twelve miles. These mountains
form the western extremity of a range, running
as far to the eastward as the eye can reach.
The path led directly to these mountains, and the
surrounding country was of a beautiful cham-
paign character, studded at considerable intervals
with trees of various descriptions.

About half a mile from Setta, and journeying
N.E., we crossed a fine brook with a waterfall.
The bed of the brook was of granite or quartz, in
immense detached blocks, the brook running east-
ward. Close to this ford is a small kroom, called
Zoogah; and although we had come so short a
distance the old patriarch or caboceer had pro-
vided plenty of provisions for myself and private
servants, with water and peto. The poor man
also presented me with several fowls. He told
me that the people of his small town had made a
subscription and purchased these fowls to offer
to me, but were ashamed to make so trifling a
present, although they were anxious to show their
good feeling towards the King's white stranger.
He had told them what I had said at Setta to the
old woman (for he was present on that occasion)
who presented me with the two eggs. The kind*
ness shown towards me now formed a perfect

WESTERN AFRICA. 3

contrast to that which I had experienced on the
coasts where the character and disposition of the
people are vile. I gave the caboceer some needles
and thimbles^ with directions to distribute them
amongst his people.

At four miles from this place we arrived at a
small kroom of about three hundred inhabitants,
called Bamaj. Here is a good market, which
is held weekly : it happened to be held on
this day. The caboceer was waiting in the
market-place to receive us, in all his grandeur.
Here we had plenty of good water and pro-
visions. Ihe caboceer seemed highly delighted
at receiving a visit from a white man, and intro-
duced me to all his head men and principal wives.
The people assembled in the market-place all
came running, pushing each other aside, with
eager curiosity to obtain a sight of me. In the
market, which is shaded with large trees, called
by Europeans the umbrella-tree, they were selling
cloth of the country, of various colours in stripe ;
kao (saltpetre in its original state) which is
found in the mountains ; different sorts of grain pro-
duced in the country ; tobacco, and pipes made at
Badagry, much resembling the head of the Ger-
man pipe, but of red clay ; shalots and vegetables

b2

4 TRAVELS IX

of various sorts for soups^ and also manioc or
cassada-root ready cooked ; with yams^ plantains,
and bananas, oranges, limes, pine-apples, cashu
nuts, kolla or goora nuts, indigo and pepper ; snuff
is also &pld here. Butcher^s meat is exposed for sale
early in the morning, but if it be not sold quickly
^t is cooked in the market-place, to prevent putre-
faction. Sheep and goats are sold in the market,
but, singular enough, I never saw a live bullock
in the market in any part of Africa, except at Tan-
giers. Fowls and eggs, and agricultural implements
pf various descriptions, are also sold in all the
markets of any magnitude in this part of the
country. Here the land is well cultivated, and
the crops are very good.

This kroom contains about six hundred in-
habitants, who are evidently of a different tribe
to the people of Whydah. They are much better
formed and more nimble, and apparently more
capable of enduring fatigue than the natives on
the coast. After distributing some small pre^
sents and some rum to the caboceer, we resumed
our journey.

At ten miles distant, and bearing (magnetic)
E.S.E. the Davity mountains are seen. These
mountains form a range extending from east to

WESTERN' AFRICA. 5

west, for a distance of about twelve miles, and are
separated by a narrow plain from another range
of mountains, distant about two miles. Both
ranges are of conical or hogback character. At
the distance of four miles and a half we reached
Daragow, a small kroom of about three hundred
inhabitants. Here we were welcomed by the
caboceer, whose name was Badykpwa, a fine stout
old man of about fifty- five years of age.

The necessary qualifications for a caboceer in
nearly all the kingdoms and petty states of Western
and Central Africa, are, that he should be tall and
stout; a beard is also indispensable. In many
African kingdoms, indeed, rank is estimated by
the length and thickness of the beard.

At six miles we reached the banks of the river
Zoa, here forty yards wide and seven feet deep. It
is very muddy, for it is now the rainy season. Large
blocks of granite rise above the surface; the bed
of the river consists of a drab-coloured sand. The
current is about two miles per hour, running
(magnetic) E.S.E. The banks are thirty feet
deep, and wooded on each bank with trees of
gigantic size, whose enormous roots extend in all
directions. The greater number of these roots
run along the surface, in most cases crossing

6 TRAVELB IN

and re-crossing each other, presentmg the appear-^
ance of network. Their trunks are buttressed
all round, somewhat like the cotton-tree. At
about eight feet from the ground the buttresses,
which so far are straight, break off in different
directions, crossing each other around the trunk,
like a number of large serpents wattled across each
other. I did not observe any trees of the same
description at a distance from the rivers.

At this ferry we found a large canoe, which is
left here for the use of passengers. By order of
the king of Dahomey, all traders carrying goods
are exempt from paying fees for crossing. Here
we were detained for some time, the canoe not
being capable of conveying more than ten persons
without luggage at a time. I remained till all
the party had been ferried over, except the
caboceer, or captain, and the other principal offi-
cers of my suite. When we embarked, the captain
begged me to sit in the bottom of the canoe with
my face towards the stern, so that in crossing I
was conveyed backwards. When I remonstrated
with him on the absurdity of doing so, he de-
clared it to be " bad fetish " for any great man
in crossing water to look in the direction he is
proceeding, assuring me also that he was an-

J

WE8TEBN AFRICA. 7

swerable for mj safety, and that should anything
of an unpleasant nature happen to me he should
be severely punished, or if any thing should occur
to my personal injury he should lose his head.
When I found the poor fellow, who was under
these restrictions, felt distressed at the observations
I had made, I readily assented to all his instruc-
tions and directions. My little horse swam across,
tied to the canoe, which materially assisted us in
getting it across.

This river is the same as the river Lagos
at Badagry on the coast, although here called
the Zoa; but the same thing occurs all over
Africa where I have yet been. I am also in-
formed that this same river has two other distinct
names, between this place and the place where it
takes the name of Lagos, which fully accounts
for many supposed errors of our travellers, as well
as many errors in fact.

Our party having now all safely crossed the
liver, we immediately resumed our journey
amongst thickets of underwood scarcely pass-
able, the bushes having closed in and across the
path, and joined over the narrow sheep-track
for such it really was. After travelling half
a mile, the path became more open, and we sud-
denly came upon a small lake or pond, apparently

8 TBAYELS IN

of stagnant water, with the delicate water-lily
sprinkled oyer its surface. The sight of these
beautiful flowers, coming upon us so unexpectedly,
created a very pleasing sensation, for they were
exactly the same as the water-lily of England.

The country now opened, and the path, clear
of bush, became less irksome to the traveller.
I observed here that the grass had been recently
burnt, and inquiring of my guide the reason of
it, was informed that the whole surface was set
on fire twice annually, to the extent of many
square miles. This is done for the double purpose
of destroying the reptiles and insects, as well as
the decayed vegetable, and also to annihilate the
vegetative powers of the shea butter-tree, which
grows here in great abundance. At seven miles
the path changed its direction to the eastward.
The land was level, but exhibited no cultivation,
nor any appearance of human habitation. At
eight miles and a half a valley opened upon us
on a gentle slope, with a brook running to the
eastward.

At ten miles we crossed another valley of greater
depth, called by my guide, Dimodicea-takoo.
On each side of the path were numerous aloes of
various descriptions. The aloes which have a
mark on the leaves like a partridge's wing, were

WESTERN AFRICA. d

at this time in seed. My servant Maurice now
begun to complain very much of pain in his head
and loins^ and seemed quite exhausted, although
he had ridden my horse ever since I had crossed
the Zoa.

At twelve miles and a half we crossed another
valley and brook, running eastward, named Koo-
tokpway. At thirteen miles and a half we reached
a stupendous mountain, called Gbowelley, Here
the path suddenly changed to NN.W., passing
near to the base of the mountain, which forms the
western extremity of a range of less magnitude
than this. At its foot, and at its western ex-
tremity, is a small kroom, of about two hundred
inhabitants. It is very pleasantly situated on the
plain or division between Gbowelley and another
chain, or rather crescent of mountains, at a few
miles farther to the westward, commanding a view
of high mountains to the northward. This sudden
and delightful change seemed to inspire all of us
with fresh animation and spirits ; for though we had
passed over several tracts of country partaking
somewhat of the character of hills, we were now
almost on a sudden directly amidst a number of
stupendous mountains of great magnitude and
singularity of character, at once romantic and
pleasing. The old caboceer was warned of our

na

10 TRAVELS IN

approach by the noise of our drums^ and was close
to the path awaiting our arrival with plenty of
kankie, water, and peto for our refreshment,
which were very acceptable to all of us: for my
own part, I felt quite prepared for a hearty meal,
without scrutinizing it. Here the air felt re-
freshing and pure, and rushed in a current
between the mountains.

The old caboceer was of commanding figure,
about five feet ten inches in height, of pleasing
countenance, and of quick and intelligent manner*
He was a native of Dahomey, and in great con-
fidence with the King. He took pleasure in boast-
ing that he had seen me at Dahomey during the
custom or holiday, having been invited to the latter
place purposely to receive orders from his Majesty
respecting my treatment when I should arrive in
the Mahee country, f He had despatched orderlies
to every town occupied by a caboceer, to deliver
the King's orders respecting me. / It was now that
my suppositions were realized respecting the kindr
ness shown me on my journey, via. that the King
had given orders as to every particular, however
trifling, respecting my treatment and the presents
I was to receive. fThe caboceer is named Hah,
and the old man was sent here from Dahomey at
the- time of its surrender to the Dahomans. |

WESTERN AFRICA. II

The inliabitBiitB of these moantBinB are called
Mahees, and occopy part of the country of that
Dame. They made a determined resistance against
the Dahomans, and held out for seven moons, or
months, having poseession of the monnt^ns, and
concealing themselves in the fissures and caves,
advancing and retreating in turn according to cir^
cumstonces. Though their numbers were great,
yet the caution and skill of their besiegers pre-
vailed; for they bad the advantage of good fire-
arms, and were able to avail themselres of the
crops and cattle on the plains at the base of the
motintains. The Dahomans always choose the
harvest season for besieging a mountain; and
although the steepness of these mountwns renders
the ascent of a besi^ing army impos^ble, they
can 80 entirely blockade the occupants from all
c<Hnmunication with the plain, as soon either to
starve them to death, or compel them to surrender
to their enemies, at discretion.

These mountaineers never think of reserving
any of their corn or other produce as stores, so
that they invariably become an easy prey, though
in this country they can r^se four crops in the
year. The Mahees use the bow and arrow, the
King of Dahomey forbidding the transport of fire-
arms through his kingdom from the coast. The

12 TRAYEI^ IN

old caboceer and mj guide both informed me^ that,
during the Beven months' war in Gbowdley and
the neighbouring mountains to the eastward^ four
hundred caboceers were killed^ so that, allowing
only a proportion of one hundred individuals to
each caboceer, at least forty thousand men must
have perished.

After a great deal of remonstrance and per-
suasion with the caboceer and my captain, a pro-
mise was given that I should be allowed to examine
the mountain, but upon condition that I would
take my shoes off, so that I should incur less risk
in climbing up the steep fissures, which are not
wide enough to admit of more than one man in
width. The old caboceer took the lead in ascend-
ing, giving me his hand the whole of the way up ;
and my own caboceer kept close behind me, fear-
ing lest I might slip. In our ascent I observed
many very large cotton-trees in the fissures, with
scarcely any soil to support them. Monkeys were
very numerous amongst the branches.

After gaining the top, in a sort of hollow or
basin, on one side of the dome-shaped summit,
were the remains apparently of a large town.
This place was truly the picture of desolation,
and the ravages of war and famine presented
themselves on aU sides. Hundreds of human

WESTERN AFRICA. 13

skulls, of different sizes, were still to be seen ; as
also the skulls of sheep, goats, and ox^n. No
doubt the latter named animals had been used as
food by the people whose remains we saw around
us, the greater part of whom had been starved to
death rather than surrender. Many of the soldiers
of my guard had been on service during this siege,
and described the scene on ascending as of the
most awfu] description. The bodies of the dead
in a putrid state were, it appears, mixed with
those who were still alive, but unable to move;
many were wounded with bullets, whose limbs
were rotting off and covered with vermin ;* and
the air was so pestiferous, that many of the Daho-»
mans died from its effects. The vultures tore the
bodies of the poor wounded people, even while they
were yet alive. In many of the small fissures I
observed the remains of various domestic quadru-
peds, together with human bones, very probably
carried there by the vulture or eagle, also natives
of this mountain, as well as the common fox, the
panther, and large hyaena, or patakoo, the name
given to it by the natives,

* This may appear an exaggeration, but I assure my readers,
that I hare had a large quantity taken from a yery severe
wound I received when in the Niger expedition. Pr. Williams
and Dr. Thompson can corroborate my assertion. The African
Hy blows live maggots instead of eggs.

14 TRAVELS IX

This mountain is formed by horizontal beds
about forty feet deep, composed of gneiss or
granite, each bed differing in quality from another
in the proportions of feltspar and mica. It rises
at an angle of 23". All the mountains in this
neighbourhood rise abruptly, and are very steep^
— ^in fact, on some sides, they are nearly per-
pendicular, the plain in most cases being truly
level to the very base of the mountains.

After descending, and returning to the place
where I left my party refreshing themselves, I
found many of them in a partial state of intoxica-
tion, from too freely indulging in the use of the
peto. My poor man Maurice, induced by a high
state of fever, had attempted to allay his thirst by
copiously partaking of the same liquor. After
giving some small presents to the caboceer and
principal people, we resumed our journey. Just
as we began our march, the rain descended in tor-^
rents. Fortunately, while at Whydah, I had made
myself a waterproof cloak, which I now gave to
my poor white man, who seemed a little revived
after his rest and the stimulating effects of the
peto. He proposed walking; but I knew that
his revival was only temporary, and compelled
him to ride.

The path was now very deeply worn with the

WESTERH AFRICA. 15

Iieary rains, a stream pouring down and washing
all the soil from amongst the stones, leaving only
the iron stone or ore, which rendered walking
very unpleasant. The country was level, with
the exception of a gentle declivity in the direction
in whieh we were now proceeding (NN.W.).
The plain at intervals was studded with large and
small blocks of granite, some round, others angu-
lar, but the foundation chiefly iron, which I
have observed in many places, only covered with
a thin surface of vegetable soil of a loamy nature.
The surface of the iron is quite smooth, and
resembles our pavement of asphalte in London.
In some places the iron rock is entirely bare, and
has every appearance of having run to its own
level while in a state of fusion.

The soil now changed to a rich sand and clay,
very productive. I observed some fine specimens
of the twisted rock, but without any mica in
its composition, being more compact and solid
than the composition of the last-named mountain,
and of a similar character to marble, of blue,
black, and white mixture. Here we were again
met by the caboceer and a number of his people, be-
longing to a small kroom at some considerable dis-
tance from the path. They brought us plenty of
kankie and peto. We again stopped for some time,

16 TRAVELS IN

and made inquiry respecting the neighbourhood,
but I invariably found it impossible to obtain any
information respecting any other locality than their
own immediate vicinity, unless from some of the
traveUing merchants. After giving a small pre-
sent, which is always necessary on such occasions,
we resumed our journey. Close to the path were
several mineral springs, powerfully impregnated
with iron. These springs are permanent. This
country is beautifully watered, having a great
many springs of various qualities, and numerous
small brooks.

The rains are more regular here than near the
coast, and thunder is much less frequent. No doubt
the extreme fertility of the soil in this locality is
attributable to the good supply of water from the
regular rains and springs, for four crops of corn
I was told are obtained in one year.

At nineteen miles and a half, bearing or direc--
tion of the path, we changed to east, and crossed
the brook Halee, which runs eastward, with water
sufficient to propel machinery of any ordinary
power. At twenty miles and a half. Mount Weesee,
bearing west, and Lusee to the east. At twenty-
one miles we came upon a brook called Agbowa,
with abundance of water. Here the land is well
cultivated. This is the first place in Africa where

WESTERN AFRICA. 17

I have observed the use of manure in agriculture^
Some Guinea corn, which is planted in drill,
measured ten feet in height, the maize about
eight feet. Here are large herds of very fine
cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs; the Guinea fowl
and common domestic fowl, as well as partridges
of great size, are also abundant. The turtle-dove
abounds here, as in most other places in the
vicinity of towns and villages.

At twenty-one miles and a half we arrived at
Paweea, a very large town, composed chiefly of.
low square huts, very neat and clean, with several
lai^e markets. At the entrance of the town we
were met by the caboceer and his soldiers, part of
whom were armed with muskets, and accoutred
in the same manner as my own guard ; the rest
were armed with the bow and arrow. Paweea is
well situated, and commands a view of the sur-
roimding country to a great distance. The atmo-
sphere is much clearer here than on the coast, or
even at Abomey, so that the surrounding moun-
tains are very distinctly observable, and minor
objects perfectly seen at a very considerable dis-
tance, in comparison with the coast.

The caboceer, and his principal attendants and
men of office, led us into the principal market-
place within the walls, which is held under several

18 TRAVELS IN

large trees, covering about three quarters of an
acre. Here we seated ourselves, and the usual
complimentary pakyer of welcoming the King's
Stranger to the town of Paweea followed, and a
large calabash of water was offered to me, after it
had been tasted. Then the rum was passed round
amongst all my people. Aflber this indispensable
ceremony was concluded, we were directed to my
lodgings, which were not far distant.

The houses here are superior to those of many
other towns, consequently I had comfortable
quarters for myself and people. The caboceer
was a fine, stout, square-built man, and very
agreeable both in person and manner, but with a
very singularly-formed head above the temples,
narrowing acutely to the upper part of the skull.
This gave his head the appearance of having been
squeezed or pressed. He seemed, however, pos-
sessed of more than the ordinary sense of his
countrymen, and appeared to be in every way
anxious to accommodate and please us. Plenty of
excellent provisions were soon brought to my
apartments for myself and people.

After we had finished our meal, the caboceer
and several of the principal members of his retinue
came to spend an hour with us. Upon this oc-
casion I ordered some rum to be unpacked and

WESTERN AFRICA. 19

distributed amongst them. I was mudi gratified
to find the caboceer enter so fully into conversi^
tion^ and make so many shrewd inquiries respect-
ing England^ our manufactures and laws. He
also seemed very communicative, and willing to
give me every information in his power respecting
his own country. He had been in command
during the late war, and had of course travelled a
considerable distance beyond his own locality.

In this town peto is made entirely from the
Guinea corn, not as on the coast, from the maize or
Indian com. It is a very agreeable liquor, and less
sweet than that made from the Indian corn. After
conversing about two hours, the caboceer with-
drew, to allow me to repose, which was very
agreeable to me, for I was very tired.

July 12th. — ^Early in the morning a messenger
arrived from the caboceer with his cane, which he
presented to me with his master's compliments,
desiring to know if I were quite well, and how I
slept. Soon after the messenger had left me,
the caboceer came, preceding his commissariat train,
with an immense quantity of provision in large
and small calabashes, containing beef, pork,
mutton, fowl, kankie, dabadab, and a delicious dish
made from a vegetable called occro, which when
boiled forms a gelatinous substance, and is very

20 TRAVELS IK

strengthening. This dish is seasoned with palm
oil and pepper. The provisions in all amounted
to twenty bushels. The good old caboceer of
Gbowelley, whom we left; yesterday, sent some of
his people after us this morning with a present of
one goat, three fowls, and a large ealabash of kankie.
This was an acknowledgment for some presents,
which I had given to him when I left him. The
carriers and messengers were quite delighted when
I presented each of them with some needles and
thimbles, and returned home rejoicing.

After breakfast, the caboceer wished me to walk
round his town with him — seeming anxious to
gratify his people with a glimpse or sight of the
King's stranger. This was just what I wished, as
I was anxious to acquire as much information as
possible during the short time I had to spare.
Accordingly we visited the markets, which were
well supplied with provisions and articles of
manufacture. I noticed amongst other things
some English chequered handkerchiefs. Native
cloth, of various quality and colours, was exposed
for sale. Kaom, or saltpetre, is very abundant in
the Kong mountains, and is sold in the markets
in all the towns in the vicinity. It is used
as medicine, and, as in England, is much in
requisition for cattle. Deer skins of various

WESTERN AFBICA. 21

species are sold in the market, also nuts of various
sorts^ as well as different kinds of beans and peas.
Ginger is very abundant in this neighbourhood,
and is sold at about eight-pence per Winchester
bushel. The com is now nearly ripe, and some of
the Guinea corn is as much as ten feet high, so
that the town is entirely concealed until the fence,
which invariably encloses the African towns on
the plain, is passed. The prickly bush at Abomey
is planted like a double hedge round the town, and
is about ten yards wide, so that to a European it
would seem a matter of impossibility ever to break
through it. The female soldiers of Dahomey,
however, as I have already mentioned, are capable
of taking one of these towns with apparently
little trouble.

The owners of the numerous herds of cattle
keep them in folds or pens in the town, and the
dung is preserved for manure. They are excellent
farmers, eyen in thia remote part, where they
never can have had intercourse with any civilized
being. They also manufacture very good cloth,
although their method is certainly tedious, the
thread being spun by the distaff, and their loom
being of a very simple construction, though
upon the same principle as our linen looms in
JJngl^d. Their, web is necessarily narrow, not

22 TSAVELS IN

exceeding six inches. As they have not yet found
out the use of the shuttle, they merely hand the
reel through the shade from one side to the other
in putting in the weft ; and instead of treadles to
set the foot upon, they use two loops, which are
suspended from the treadles, into which they put
their big toes, which act upon the same principle as
the treadle. The warp is not rolled round a beam,
as in our looms, but kept at its extreme length,
and the farther end is made fast to a large stone
or heavy substance, which is gradually drawn
towards the weaver as he progresses in his work.

Iron is very good in this neighbourhood, and
is worked with considerable skill. Their imple-
ments for agricultural purposes are much superior
to those manufactured nearer the coast. Sweet
potatoes, yams, and manioc or cassada, are cul-
tivated here with great success.

The different articles sold in the market are
nearly the same as I have already mentioned at
Whydah. I was amused upon being shown a
patakoo or large hyaena trap, from the simplicity of
its construction. It is about twenty feet long and
two feet broad. The walls are thick and strong.
The trap is constructed upon the same principle as
some of those used in England for catching various
sorts of vermin without destroying or injuring

WESTERN AFRICA. 23

them. A goat or young kid is placed in a cage
in the trap, at the farthest extremity from the
entrance, and the hyaena, or panther, (whichever
may happen to pass,) is attracted by the bleating of
the kid. Upon entering the trap, it must step on
a board with a string attached, the other end of
which is connected with a trigger which suspends
a sliding door. Upon the trigger being puUed,
the sliding door immediately drops and incloses
the animal. It is then sometimes maimed or
baited with dogs.

Dinner-time had now arrived, and we returned
to our quarters, when it was soon afterwards
brought in, and consisted of one large hog, three
goats, sixteen fowls, and a fine bullock, all which
were served up in excellent style, with plenty of
dabadab and kankie, and round balls of cakes made
with meal and palm oil, baked or roasted together
with abundance of peto.

After dinner, the caboceer expressed a desire to
see me in uniform, and wished also that the cere-
mony of receiving me on entering his town should
be repeated as the King's stranger, similar to my
reception on the previous evening. This requisi-
ti(m was not very agreeable to me, as my white
man Maurice was still very ill and in low q>irits.
However, T prepared myself soon after dinner, and

24 TRAVELS IN

mounted my little charger. The caboceer ex»

amined my horse and accoutrements very minutely,

as also my appointments. My sword, large knife,

^ as they called it, excited much admiration from

' its brightness, and above all, for its pliability in

bending and again resuming its original form.
Their short swords are made of iron, but have no
' spring in them. He next examined my double-

barrelled gun, and seemed much astonished at the
percussion caps, believing that the cap alone was
also the charge, no doubt from its loud report,
waiter explaining it to him, he seemed much
gratified.

We then proceeded out of the town, one half of
my guard in front, and the other in my rear, with
the caboceer's soldiers in rear of the whole, one
half of whom were armed with bows and arrows.
After proceeding about half a mile from the town
into an open piece of ground not planted with
corn, the soldiers commenced a review and sham
fight, which, although it did not display any great
complication of manoeuvres, was interesting from
the quickness of their motions, and significant
gestures.

After the review was over, we returned to the
market-place, when all my soldiers commenced
dancing. This was kept up alternately by my

WESTERN AFRICA. 25

guard, and the soldiers belonging to the town.
In this country each caboceer invariably keeps a
clown or jester, many of whom are clever and
amusing on account of their ready wit. After the
dance, which lasted about two hours, I gave each
of the party some rum, which is always expected
on such occasions. I then retired to my quarters,
accompanied by the caboceer, who seemed very
anxious to maintain a friendly conversation, evi-
. dently with a view to obtain information on
general topics. He remained till a late hour, when
he retired to his home, leaving me once more to
enjoy my own reflections upon what I had seen,
and to take notes for my Journal.

The town of Paweea contains about sixteen
thousand inhabitants. They seem rather an
industrious race in comparison with those near
the coast, f Here, as well as in most other towns
in the neighbourhood, the mechanic is very much
esteemed on account of his craft, but especially
the blacksmith, who in their own language is
called a cunning man, ranking next to the fetish-
man or priest. ) The soil round this place is
a rich sandy loam, and the land well watered,
consequently, the crops are abundant, and the
people are in the enjoyment of plenty, with but
little labour. They seem a very happy race, and
VOL. n. c

26 TRAVELS IN

well satisfied with their present goyemment and
laws^ which, previous to their subjection to the
King of Dahomey, were arbitrary and cruel in
the extreme* This town has two strong gates on
the south-east and north-west sides, which are
closed at simset, and guarded by soldiers or watch-
men, who take that duty in turn.

WESTERN AFRICA. 27

CHAPTER 11.

The Caboceer's Kindness to my Serrant— Presents — Names of Ca-
boceer, &c. — Granite Mountains — Tanks — The Aditay — Soil —
The Tawee — Mountains — Grain and Vegetables — ^The Zoglogbo
Mountain — Beception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo — Ascent
of ihe Mountain — Cotton-trees — Mountain-pass — Singular
Situation of the Town — ^Houses — ^Dahoman Political Agent —
Probable Origin of the Mountain— Epsdoko Mountain — Igno-
rance, assumed or real, of the Neighbouring Country by the
Natiyes — The Dabadab Mountains — Superstition — Singular
Method of conveying Cattle— Cruelty to the Brute Creation —
Difficult Descent — Agriculture and Manu&etures — Height of
the Mountains — Death of Three Kings at Zoglogbo— Names of
the Caboceer, &c. — Beception at Bafib— Costume of Caboceer
and his Wife— His Principal Wives— Beautiful Birds— Gigantic
Trees— Paramtical Plants— Singular Tree -Soil— Grain, Fruits,
&C. — Cattle— Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer — Goods
exposed for Sale — ^Bival Caboceers — Game — ^Pigeon-trap — ^Trial
of Skill — ^Dog poisoned — Increasing Illness of my Servant —
The Caboceer's principal Cook.

Sunday, July 13tL — Early in the morning the
caboceer again Bent me plenty of provisions for
myself and people, and showed great kindness
to Maurice, my white servant, using every
means to induce him to partake of some food,
bringing amongst other dishes one made of meal

c2

28 TRAVELS IK

and water boiled together, sweetened with honey,
and aboat the consistence of thin gruel. This
composition is used as we do tea in England, but
is of course much more substantia]. I relished
it very much. My poor servant also partook of
a considerable portion, but he could not rally,
having lost all the courage of which he had so
often boasted. The caboceer then desired us to
proceed again to the market-place, where we
found two fine bullocks tied to a tree ; one was a
present to the King of Dahomey, and the other
to myself.

After going through the usual compliments
on either side, we marched on our journey till we
came to the gates on the north-east of the town,
where several of the principal officers of the
staflT of the caboceer's household approached him,
apparently in great anxiety, whispering something
to the caboceer. After this, the captain of my
guard communicated to me that the caboceer of
Paweea begged that I woidd honour himself and
head men so far, as to enter their names in my
book. This is, in all places in the Dahoman
kingdom, considered the highest honour that
can possibly be conferred upon them. To this
request I readily acceded; and in a short time

WESTERN AFRICA. 29

had all their names n^istered in my fetish-
book^ as they called it. After entering the names,
as given by the oaboceer's principal officer, I
was yery shrewdly asked to caU each individual
by their name, as this was considered a puzzler
for me ; but when they found that I called the
roll correctly, they all seemed surprised and de-
lighted. A report to the same effect soon spread
over the greater part of the Mahee country. We
now took our final departure from the town of
Paweea.

I here record the names of the head men
according to my Jounml: —

Caboceer^B name

Ist Headman

2d do.

4th do.

5th do.

6th Head Musician

TerrasBo-Weea.

Adah.

Chaaoulong.

Daowdie.

Avamagbadjo.

Hawsoo-Agwee.*

The names of Mayho's traders from Abomey,
who treated myself and people with provisions
and peto at Paweea f were : —

Toaaao. Takie. Bowka.

Adassie. Howta. Kossau.

Nookodoo.

* I found this man was a native of Houssa, which accounts for
his snmame.
t The inhabitants of Paweea are about three thousand.

30 TRAVELS IN

We now passed through the gate, which is
very strong. The walls of the town are very
thick, and are composed of reddish-coloured clay.
Close to the gates is the weekly market-place,
held under several large trees, which afford a
grateful shade from the sun, as well as a temporary
protection from the rain. In the whole of the
Mahee country which I have yet visited, I find
that the weekly markets are held without the
walls, to prevent as much as possible strangers
entering the town. The daily markets are seldom
attended by any except their own people, princi-
pally for a mutual exchange of goods of native
manufacture.

About nine a.m. we recommenced our journey,
the path bearing N.E., aad at one mile N. 35^ E. I
noticed the chain of mountains running N.E. and
S.W., distant about four miles, and bearing north
from Paweea. The country round, however, is
level, and studded with palm and other trees.
In the distance, the immense blocks of granite
appeared stratified, or divided into perpendicular
sections, but upon a nearer approach were found
to be only marks left by the running down of
the water which accumulates in naturally formed
basins or tanks on the tops, apparently formed by
the heavy rains acting powerftdly on the softer

k<M.i<uaifa-

WESTEBN AFIUCA. 31

parts of the rock. From tbs exuesaive heat, this
water soon becomes foul, aad the first eucceeding
rains cause an overflow, marking the rock in
dark streaks, and ^ving it the appearance I have
stated.

At a mile and a half, hearing north, the soil
became gravelly, studded with trees. At two
miles and a hal^ hearing ^ain ntolh, we crossed
the brook Aditay, running eastward, over a rocky
bottom of hlue granite. This beautiful clear
stream is, pn an average, during the season only
two feet deep and six wide. It is a perma-
nent stream, capable of propelling machinery.
At three miles and a half, the bearing changed to
E. N. E., with clear springs, impregnated with iron.
The temperature was 64° Fahrenheit. The land is
still level, and the soil of the dark colour of de-
cayed vegetation. At five miles we crossed the
river Tawee, running east. This river is wider
than the last, with a gravelly bed ; current less
rapid, but also capable of turning machinery.

At seven miles I observed two mountwns of
oonsiderable magnitude, and very picturesque,
distant from the path two miles, and bearing
N. 35° W. The land is beautifully cultivated along
the foot of tlie mouut^ns. The drilling system
is followed here with the com, both in the Daho-

32 TRAVELS IN

man and Mahee countries, and with all sorts of
gndn, as well as with the sweet potato ; but
yams are planted in moimds about three feet in
height, of a conical form. In this part, however,
the yams are inferior generally to those grown
on the coast, being what are called water-yams,
which are much softer than those found near
Whydah. Four different sorts of maize, or
Indian com, are grown here, the smallest of
which produces four crops in twelve months. The
Guinea corn is also very abimdant, as well as
another grain which grows about the same height.

At ten miles, we arrived at the foot of the
mountain of Zoglogbo, a splendid specimen, al-
though not more than eighteen hundred feet high
on the south-east side. We halted at a small
kroom at its foot, in the market-place, where I
changed my dress at the desire of the captain of
my guard, and put on my regimentals to receive
the caboceer of Zoglogbo. I had scarcely finished,
when he arrived with his retinue. He is a re-
markably fine old man, apparently about sixty
years of age, and of a very venerable appearance.
He is nearly six feet high, and altogether of a
noble and graceful figure. He approached within
about five yards of the place where I was seated.

II r m II BiBTi I

WEBTBBN AFBICA.

by the side of the caboceer or cf^t^ of my
guard, when, before epeakiDg a word, he, together
with his head men and attendaats, pro8trat«d
themselves, throwing dust on their heads, and
rubbing their arms with the same. My own
caboceer next prostrated himself, going through
eimilar forme of humility. Both parties after-
wards remained on their knees, and delivered the
King's message respecting the King's stranger, as
they constantly called me. We then drank water
with each other, previous to the introduction of
rum, of which our new and venerable friend
Kpatchie seemed very fond.

We now proceeded to ascend the mount^n by
a narrow fissure or iracture nearly perpendicular,
passing in our ascent many very large cotton-
trees, dispersed irregularly in the different crevices
of the roclc. Numbers of large monkeys of dif-
ferent species were playing amongst the boughs,
but they were rather wild, being hunted for their
flesh, which is used here for food. The passage
up the side of the mountain is so narrow, as only
to admit of one man passing at a time, and very
steep and difficult, on accoxmt of the many blocks
of stone which impede the ascent. It would have
been impossible for me to ascend with my shoes
on, had not the old caboceer of the mountain
c3

34 TRAVELS Dl

walked in front and given me his hand, and
another person pushed at my back, as occasion
required.

After a somewhat toilsome though romantic
journey, we arrived at the gates of the town,
which were of very thick planks of seven inches,
strongly barred with iron. After passing the
gates the path was much easier and not so steep,
from the fissure not being filled so high, so
that the top of the fissure was far above the
head, apparently above twenty yards. After
passing a little distance farther we came upon the
town, which is situated in a basin, or crater,
formed in the centre of the top of the mountain.
Sound the outer edge of this immense basin are
thrown tremendous blocks of various sizes, under-
neath which many houses are built. Although
these blocks are placed on each other in such a
tottering position, the houses in the centre of the
town are erected with considerable taste and r^u-
larity . The residences of the principal merchants
and influential members of the town are built in
the form of squares or quadrangles, which are
occupied by their wives, which are frequently very
numerous, as well as their families. Their slaves
also occupy a part of the buildings, and are treated
as well as their own families. Indeed, as I have

WSSTEBN AFRICA. 35

already observed, they work together in cultivating
the fields, or any other domestic employment*

The caboceer led us to a tolerably good house
with every necessary utensil for our use. Many
presents of various descriptions were brought to
me, the old caboceer seeming much pleased at the
kindness of his people to the King's stranger.
His own kindness and attention were unbounded,
as well as those of his principal attendant, a young
man of rank from Dahomey, and the handsomest
and most intelligent African I had ever met. ]| The
BaQgof Dahomey displays great sagacity in sending
Dahomans to the frontiers between the Mahees,
Yarriba, and Fellattahs. These men, although
acting as principal attendants to chiefs or caboceers
of the subdued Mahees, are nothing more nor less
than political spies, the upper rank of such persons
preventing any combination or aUiance dangerous
to the power of the King of Dahomey,! although
generally the Mahees seem very much pleased
with their present government and new laws.

Aft;er we had established ourselves in our
quarters, we were supplied with plenty of peto
and clean water to drink, and the caboceer sat
down and enjoyed himself with us, often express-
ing his gratification at being visited by the King's
stranger. In a short time large quantities of
provision were brought for us, and as usual ready

36 TRAVELS IN

cooked. Being rather hungry, we made a pretty
hearty meal, and afterwards were agiun joined by
the old caboceer, and several of the merchants or
traders from Abomey, who presented me with a
large quantity of peto.

It now commenced a very heavy rain, conse-
quently we were obliged to content ourselves with
remaining in the house, and conversing upon diffe-
rent topics respecting England and Africa. I found
while conversing on the state and government of
Dahomey, a certain backwardness in their replies,
unless through my own caboceer. Whether this
arose from a want of knowledge on the subject, or
in compliance with orders given to refer such ques^
tions to the caboceer of my guard, I am unable
to decide, but should suppose that this latter was
the fact. During the evening the caboceer partook
too much of the peto and rum, accompanied with
large quantities of snuff, which he administered
alternately to his mouth and nose. Several per-
sons were admitted and introduced to me by
him. My poor servant Maurice, although I had
given him my horse the whole of the day's journey,
was now quite knocked up, and extremely low in.
spirits. After spending a tolerably comfortable
evening my friends departed, and I went to rest
for the night.

WESTERN AFRICA. 37

July 14th. — Early in the morning the caboceer
agidn visited me^ to pay me the customary morning
compliment, and in about an hour after he had
retired breakfast was sent ready cooked, as
usual, for myself and soldiers. After breakfast
we walked round the town, which is of great
beauty. From the quantities of fused iron-stone
thrown indiscriminately amongst the immense
blocks of granite, it would appear that the centre
of the mountain had at some remote period been
thrown up by some volcanic irruption. Zoglogbo
forms the N.E. extreme of a range of mountains
running N.E. and S.W. and is the highest of
that range. The grain of the granite is much larger
than that of most of the rocks of the other moun-
tiuns. On the north-eastern extremity, and on
the top of the rock, are several tanks nearly filled
with water, for it is now the rainy season. These
tanks are formed by nature, and are foimd to be of
great advantage, both for the people and the cattle,
which, to my great surprise, I found in and about
the town, though the ascent from the plain is so
difficult, that I was obliged to leave my horse at
the bottom at one of the towns. The fracture,
extending entirely across the mountain, forms two
passes, adjoining which is a town on each side.
I found upon inquiry, that a cow and bull had

38 TRAVBLB IN

been carried up into the mountain, and their off-
spring preserved, and that only very lately they
had begun to kill thenu The cattle live upon
leaves and branches of different shrubs and stunted
trees.

After tvTSkm\n\f}g the town we went to the
highest pinnacle of Zoglogbo, where we obtained
a very pleasant view of the sorrounding country.
At four miles distant, and bearing north-east, is
seen the beautiful and gigantic block of granite,
two thousand five hundred feet high, named Kpa-
loko; and as &r as the eye can reach to the
eastward are three mountains of a conical form,
all of which are of the same shape and height.
I asked the caboceer the name of these mountains,
but he denied all knowledge of them, either by
name or otherwise. I then asked several of my
soldiers, fix>m whom I received a similar reply.
It seemed to me very singular, that a man should
live during his whole life so near any remark-
able spot without knowing something of the place,
or even its name; but from a communication I
received from a Mahomedan priest at Abomey, I
was convinced that the distant mountains were the
Dabadab Mountains, from the resemblance of
their shape to a dumpling made from the Indian
corn-meal so called After measuring the height

WB8TBBK AFRICA. 39

by the boiUng-poiiit thermometer, we descended
the rock, which was quite smooth on the slope,
60 that it would be impossible for any person to
keep his footing with shoes on. But my friend
Kpatchie paid every attention to me, both during
my aacent and descent, ordering one of his prin-
(npal attendants to take one of my arms, while he
himself took the other.

The people here are, like all other Africans,
very superstitious. When I was taking the bear--
ings of the diflFerent mountains, and measoring the
distances, they seemed very uneasy, but as the
King had given orders that I was to be permitted
to use my own discretion in aU things, it was nse-
less to object to anything I thought proper to do.
After descending this steep mountain, we visited
the principal market-place, where the caboceer
had ordered two fine bullocks to be brought ; one of
them I was to deliver to the King as a present, and
the other was presented to myself; and the old
caboceer forwarded both animals all the way to
Abomey, to be there for me on my return. The
manner in which they carry cattle is singular.
They tie the feet of the animal together, and run
a long palm pole between the legs, and thus carry
the poor animals with their backs downwards, each
end of the pole resting on the head of the c&tners.

40 TRAVELS IK

Six men are generally appointed to carry one
bullock^ who relieve one another in turns. It
would seem impossible^ to those unacquainted with
African cattle^ for two men to carry one bullock;
but it must be remembered that the African ox is
very small in comparison with English oxen.

The natives have no sympathy or feeling for the
lower animals. They throw the animal down
when they get tired, with its back on the rough
gravel, so that if they have a long journey to per-
form, the flesh is cut to the bone, and the death of
the poor animal often ensues from such usage.

After we had received the presents from the
caboceer, several of the merchants from Abomey
presented me with goats and fowls, which kind-
ness I of course acknowledged by making pre-
sents of some trifling articles of European manu-
facture. We now got ourselves ready for our march
to the town of Baflb, which is only a few miles
distant; my excellent old friend, Kpatchie, and
his whole retinue, with a guard of honour, accom-
panying me.

Our descent was by the fissure on the opposite
side of the mountain to that which we had
ascended, and was equally difficult. However, my
friend kept dose to -me, rendering me every
requisite assistance in our perilous descent. At the

WESTERN AFRICA. 41

foot of the mountain we entered another town of
considerable size. Here I found my horse, which
had been brought round to be in readiness for me.
I remained some time in this town to ascertain
their system of agriculture and their manufac-
tures, which I found superior to any thing nearer
the coast, except in Abomey and in Whydah.
They consist of cloth, iron, knit nightcaps, mats,
baskets, and a curious sort of girdle composed
of different-coloured grasses, neatly fringed at each
end, resembling the sashes worn by our infantry
officers. All sorts of agricultural implements are
also manufactured here in a superior style, as like*
wise earthen pots and pipes.

The northernmost of the four conical mountains
I have mentioned measures from the top of Kpaloko
18^ 7' towards N.E. when the observer is placed
on the N.E. end of Zoglogbo, and Kpaloko bears
N.E., distant by observation from Zoglogbo 12^
and the back bearing of Gbowelley S.E. Zog-
logbo is much famed in the Mahee coimtry for
having been the place of refuge for three moons
of three kings, who led their combined armies to
the plains of Paweea, where they were met by the
Dahoman army, commanded by the King, who
destroyed the whole of the combined armies of the
kingdoms of Eyo, or Yarriba, and Annagoo, and a

42 TRAVELS IN

kingdom in the Mahee country in the adjoining
Mountains of Kong.

These three kings declared waragainst the King
of Dahomey, and threatened also to make his
head a balance to a distaff; but the army of
Dahomey, being well armed with muskets,
although much inferior in numbers, totally de*
stroyed the combined armies ; and the three kings
fled to Zoglogbo, where the Dahoman army fol-
lowed ihem, and blockaded the passes, so that all
supplies were entirely cut off, and in three moons
the whole were compelled to surrender at discre*-
tion. These three kings were beheaded, and their
heads used for a similar purpose to that which
they had threatened the King of Dahomey with.

The head man of this town is Kpatchie's princi-
pal attendant. Kpatchie is caboceer, or king, of all
the towns and krooms in and round the mountain
of Zoglogba The principal men's names in Zogr
logbo are as follows : —

1. Kpatchie.* 6. Dyenyho. 9. Dogano.f

2. Bleedjado. 6. Doflou say Footoh. 10. Hapoflsay.t

3. Annagoonoo. 7. Zayso ayarahoo. 11. Awenoo.§

4. Dawie. 8. Bayo Bozway. 12. Bokaya.

18. Dogwhay, theOaboceer^B wife. 14. Adoo, the Caboceer's bob.

* Caboceer. f Brother to the caboceer.

X Commander-in-chief of the soldiers.
I Second In comiQand of the soldiers.

WS8TEBN AFBICA. 43

12 P.SI. — ^We now contmued our inarch from
this town to Baffo> bearing west from this place,
and at three miles and a half arrived there. We
were met about half way by the caboceer of Baffo
and his principal wife, attended by a guard of ho-
nour, some of whom were armed with bows and
arrows, and others with muskets, with which they
kept up a constant irregular fire the whole of the
way as we passed along. The caboceer and his
wife were covered with ornaments, principally of
cowries, fized to leather, made of goatskin, and
coloured blue and red, and about the width of
the reins of a riding bridle, so that they were
equipped similar to our Hussar officers' horses.
Tlus caboceer is a very quick, active, and shrewd
man; proud and foppish, moreover, and very jea-
lous of my fine old friend, Kpatchie, who accom-
panied me to Baffo.

Shortly after our arrival in that town, we were,
as usual, supplied with provision, ready cooked,
to the amount of eighty dishes, composed of goats,
pigs, and Guinea fowls. We were visited by the
caboceer's principal wives, who drank each a glass
of rum with us. This is customary with all
visitors of note or rank, but they always drink
water with each other first. My old friend
Kpatchie remained with me till he got intox-

44 TRAVELS m

icated, when I advised him to return home, which
recommendation he immediately adopted.

In the evening I went out to observe the neigh-
bourhood of the town, taking my gun with me,
when, just after passing through the gates, a
crow flew over us, which I shot. This caused
great amusement, as the natives of this place
are not expert with the gun. The crows are
very large here, but of the same colour as the
smaller ones on the coast, black, with white breast.
In this place I observed several beautiftd birds,
many of which were on their passage, for nearly
all the tropical birds of Africa are migratory.

We visited another small town^ about half a mile
west of Baffo, very pleasantly situated at the foot
of the steep mountain of Logbo, the rocks of
which at a short distance appear to hang over the
towD. The town of Baffo is similarly situated,
and is ornamented with a great variety of trees
of gigantic size. The highest of these are the
silk cotton-trees; sycamore and a species of ash
are also abundant here. The acacias are very
large, and at this season in full blossom. Many
beautiful parasitical plants hang from the large
trees and rocks ; and the clematis and jessamine fill
the air with their luxurious odour. A tree re-
sembling the drooping ash is very abundant.

WESTERN AFRICA. 45

bearing a very delicious fruit, like a yellow plum,
which hang in bunches very similar to the grape.
The fruit is very deKcious, though there is very
little flesh on the stone, which is porous, and
yields to the bite of the teeth like a piece of cork,
but 18 considerably harder.

This is the first place in which I have yet been,
since my journey commenced, which reminds me
of my native country. Here, for the first time
the large branches of the different trees are in
gentle motion, caused by the considerable current
of air or light wind passing along the steep moim-
tain-side, forming a very agreeable contrast to what
is nearly always experienced in Central Africa, by
the suffocating, heated atmosphere, where no mo*
tion is perceptible except during a tornado. I can-
not express with what satisfaction and delight I
sat me down on the end of a ruined wall of a
hut, to embrace the luxury to which I had for
many months been a stranger. Here solitude and
loneliness even were pleasing. In my lonely re-
verie, my recollections were carried unimpeded
over wastes of waters back to my native land,
and perhaps to happier days, before Care had
ploughed her furrows on my brow.

Here in this beautiful though lonely spot, I
could not help thinking how much gratification

46 TRAVELS m

I should have felt had any of my old friends and
associates in England been present, to whom I
might have expressed my gratification. My poor
servant Maurice was now getting worse, and
obliged to lie down immediately he arrived at
Baffo.

I found the land well cultivated, and the crops
very luxuriant. The Indian com here produces
a crop four times in the year ; the Guinea corn,
twice only. Fruits of various descriptions are
also abundant ; tamarinds of two different species,
the velvet tamarind and long pod, both grow in
abundance: the yellow fig, of excellent flavour,
and green grapes are also plentiful There are
two species of cashu with fruit, much larger than
I have seen on the coast. The kolla-nut is abun-*
dant here, as also several species of the under-*
ground nut, some about the size of a walnut.

Cattle are of a superior breed here, being very
square and clean in the legs, but very small.
Sheep and goats are considerably more numerous
than nearer the coast, but no horses are bred in
this part of the country, consequently the natives
were very timid in approaching my animal.
The country around is well watered by some
considerable streams, which run eastward. The
waters are of different qualities, some streams

WESTSBK AFRICA. 47

being imf^regnated with iron^ others with magnesia.
Pipe-clay is abundant in some of the valleys.

After two hours' range in the neighbourhood of
these two towns, I returned with my party and
found the caboceer of the town awaiting us. He
was, no doubt, anxious to taste again the contents
of my liquor-case, which, unfortunately, was but
scantily stored, as far as regards variety, but I had
jdenty of the common American trade rum, which
I brought with me from the coast. This is the
only drink used by the natives, excepting peto.

I gave the caboceer a good bumper or two,
wliich he seemed to relish very much. He seemed
extremely anxious to excel in politeness ; but he
assumed a little too much civility to reconcile me
to him as an honest man. However, I spent the
evQping tolerably comfortable till a late hour,
when we retired to rest. Maurice was still very
ill, although the fever was subdued, but now diar-
rhoea succeeded, and his spirits were very low ; I,
therefore, made up my mind to remain a day
or two till I should see whether any alteration
took place in him.

July 1 5th. — Early in the morning the caboceer
came to pay his morning compliments and to drink
a glass of rum previous to sending me breakfast.
The old man seemed all in a bustle, this being the

48 TRAVELS IN

principal market-day in Bafib ; and he is allowed
still to maintain an ancient custom^ which existed
here previous to the subjection of the Mahee
country, of monopolizing the whole trade of the
place to himself. In consequence of this, he was
busily employed in watching his young wives, who
kept stalls, or hawked their goods in the market-
place, many of whom I believe possessed very little
personal interest in their divided spouse's profits,
but, in order to render theft impracticable, he
placed all his youngest wives in the most con-
spicuous parts of the market-place, and himself
occupied a position which commanded a view of
the whole scene. The older or more trustworthy
wives were permitted to use their own discretion
as to their choice of carrying their goods round the
different parts of the town. The principal or favou-
rite wives dole out the portions of goods allotted to
each individual to sell, but it often occurs that
they are sold at even a higher price than de-
signed by the owner, particularly when strangers
are the purchasers. Of course the extra charge is
appropriated by the individual seller.

The articles sold in the market are much the
same as those exposed for sale in Whydah, which I
have previously enumerated, with the exception of
European manufactured goods : these, however.

WESTERN AFRICA. 49

are very limited, tobacco and rum being the prin-
cipal articles. In addition to these, I only ob-
served a few very common plaid cotton hand-
kerchiefs. Good cloth is manufactured here, and
sold in the market, but manufacture even seems
to be monopolized by the caboceer of Baffo, for, on
my treating with a weaver for the purchase of a
piece of cloth, he was obliged to consult the cabo-
ceer whether he might dispose of it at the price I
offered him, which, after some higgling, was
agreed to. The whole of the inhabitants of this
town are literally slaves, but live in peace and
plenty ever since their subjection to the King of
Dahomey.

About eleven o'clock, my friend, Kpatchie, and
his young Dahoman attendant, came again to
visit me, bringing with him about thirty persons,
carrying provisions for myself and people. This
act of kindness proceeded, undoubtedly, from his
own generosity, independent of the order of the
King. The old gentleman seemed delighted at
having an opportunity of testifying his good feel-
ings towards a white man, but this kindness on
his part seemed to create a considerable degree of
jealousy between the two caboceers, Agassadoo
and Kpatchie, so much so that high words ensued.

Although no preparation was made for. our

VOL. II. D

50 TRAVELS IK

dinner, for I had remdned at Bafib one day longer
than was expected by the King, I was amused
with the contemptuous manner exhibited towards
Agassadoo by my venerable friend. He begged
me not to rely on any of his (Agassadoo's)
promises, as he was only a man of words, and
of too much palaver to be good. This cer-
tainly was correct, but the wordy war soon ter-
minated, Kpatchie being senior, and principal
caboceer of the range of mountains on which
Baffo is situated.

A reconciliation having been effected, I honoured
ihem both by inviting them to dine with me, which
was the first time I had ever done so since I had
left Abomey. This seemed to give great satisfac-
tion to both parties, and their differences seemed
mutually forgotten. After dinner we went out
shooting. I shot several birds of various descrip-
tions on the top of the steep rock, which almost
overhangs Baffo. I observed a great number of
small animals, somewhat like the rabbits of Great
Britain. When I expressed a great wish to
ascend the pass, which is very steep and dangerous,
I was strongly dissuaded from attempting it,
it being declared to be quite impracticable,
except to some of the most daring of the hunts-
men. I was consequently obliged to satisfy

WESTERN AFBICA. 51

myself with remaining at the foot to pursue my
sport.

Game is very plentiM here> such as Guinea*
fowl of various spedes^ some jet-black and
very large, others of a lighter colour, some
homed and others not. Partridges are large
and abundant ; the male of one species is armed
with four spurs, two upon each leg, nearly
three-quarters of an inch apart, and in length
according to their age. Pigeons of various sorts
are also abundant, but the most numerous is the
turtle-dove, which is here more domesticated than
any other, except the common house-pigeon. The
turtle-doves always take up their resting-place in
towns or villages. The wood-pigeon is also abun-
dant, but very wild. I observed another species,
of a green and yeUow colour, with a red ring
round the neck about half an inch in diameter,
and without feathers, the surface much resembling
morocco leather. The natives have a very effi-
cient mode of trapping these pigeons.

A little circumstance took place here, perhaps
not unworthy of narration, respecting one of the
last-named pigeons. This pigeon had been caught
in a trap, and one of my young soldiers, anxious
to elevate himself in my estimation, caught a
pigeon, and, in order to make it appear that he

d2

52 TRAVELS IN

had shot it^ destroyed part of the head before
presenting it to me, but of course I was quite
aware that this was not true. This was the same
young man who had on a former occasion, as I
have previously related, procured a Guinea-fowl,
and made a hole through the neck, declaring that,
although he always used ball, he shot his birds
through the neck. I now set him a task which gave
him a damper. Taking a small piece of white
paper, wetting it, and sticking it on the side of a
rock, at twenty yards distance, I asked him to
shoot at that mark ; which he did, but it was no-
where near the paper. This very much chagrined
not only himself, but the whole of his companions,
who declared that the bullet had tumbled out be-
fore firing. I determined, however, to prove to him
that it was not so easy a matter as he supposed to
deceive an Englishman, and therefore gave him
another chance, by shooting at the same piece of
paper stuck against a palm-tree. This he also
missed, as well as the tree. The caboceer seemed
much annoyed lest I should consider the huntsman
a fair specimen of their skill. He therefore desired
me to shoot, thinking probably that I might be an
equally bad shot ; but I was fortunate enough to
hit part of the paper, and of course the bullet
entered the tree, which created some considerable

WESTERN AFRICA. 53

surprise amongst the soldiers who accompanied
me.

Upon our return to the town we found a fine dog
lying on the ground, apparently just killed. He
was very much swollen, particularly one of his
fore-legs. I made inquiry of the owner respect-
ing the cause of its death, and was told that, while
visiting his farm at some short distance on the
plain, a large snake came in contact with the dog,
and in the conflict bit the dog in the fore-arm.
The venom caused death in about a quarter of an
hour afterwards. The dog died within two hun-
dred yards of its home. Serpents are said to be
very mimerous and extremely venomous here,
but I have not seen any of the. serpent tribe
since I left Whydah.

Upon my return to my quarters I found my
servant Maurice apparently worse, and in very
low spirits. He had hitherto expressed a wish
not to be left, but to proceed with me on my
journey. This, of course, in his present state, it
would have been folly to allow him to do. I pro-
posed, therefore, that if he were not much better
in the morning, to leave him a few days, till I
returned from the town of Whagba, for which
place I intended to march. This the poor fel-
low consented to. He was now suffering much

54 TRAVELS IN

from dysentery, and his illness had every ap-
pearance of terminating fatally.

In the evening I was visited by one of the cabo-
ceer's wives, who was introduced to me as the
principal cook, and who had presided at the
cooking of my food. This, of course, was a very
broad hint that I should not forget her when
distributing presents. Several of the caboceer's
younger wives, who seemed very anxious to
flirt when an opportunity presented itself^ came
to make inquiry after the health of my servant,
but their real motive was to obtain a glass of rum,
for they knew that I had arranged to depart on the
following morning. The caboceer, Agassadoo, im-
portuned for every thing that met his eye, though
he took special care not to do so when the cabo-
ceer or captain of my guard was present.

WESTERN AFRICA. 55

CHAPTER ni.

The River Loto — JokAO Moontam — Jetta — Reception by the
Cabooeer — Buins of the old Town of Epaloko — Its cnriouB
Fonoation— ItB fonner Importanoe on account of its Mannfap-
tares — Desolating Effects of War— Attachment of the Katives
to particular Spots— Natural Tanks in the Mountains — Mount

' Koliko — Precipitoua Granite Rock— Similarity to Scottish
Scenery — The Nanamie — Laow, and the Laow Mountain-^
Kossieklanan Cascade — ^Tamargee Mountains — Mineral Spring
— ^Mount Koglo— Insulting Conduct of the Caboceer — Whagba
— Gaboceer*s Hospitality — The Town — Inhabitants — Kindness
of Athrimy, the Caboceer of Teo— War-Dance — ^Drunkeimess
— Names of the Caboceer^ &c — Qam&— Curious Pigeons — ^An
Incident — ^Absurd Notion — Departure from Whagba — ^Names
of the Caboceer, &c.-^Hospitality of the Cabooeers of Laow
and Massey^-Beantifiil Y«Uey — ^Impregnable Position — ^Tbe
Caboceer of Kpaloko — Grandeur of the Scene— Jeka Houssoo—
The Dabadab Mountains — ^Difficulty in obtaining Information
— ^Resolve to leave my Attendants — My Scheme— Departur^-^
Zafoora — Soil, Grain, Trees, Plants, kc — Shea-Butter used for
Lamps.

July 18th. — Early in the morning we got ready

for our march to Whagba. I found my old fiiend \

Kpatchie waiting with an extra guard of one hun*

dred men> and to my surprise found a number of '

the BafFo soldiers ready to escort me some distance

from the town. We marched out with the i

band playing one of the favourite Dahoman

56 TRAYISLS IN

urs, which seemed to me to have more of dis-
cord than music about it. On passing the
gates, the path bears NN.E. across a level
plain. After two miles we crossed the river Loto,
a fine clear stream, running east; and at two
miles and a half, and one hundred yards to the
right of the path, a spot was pointed out to me
where the King of Dahomey and his army had
encamped for the space of three months, during
the war with the King of Kpaloko, who, after a
siege which lasted all that time, was compelled to
surrender at discretion.

The plain here is well cultivated. Bearing east-
ward, about eight miles distant, the mountain of
Jokao is seen"; and on the left, about two miles
and a half distant, is a large town, named Jetta,
situated on a mountain of that name. At three
miles and a half we were met by the caboceer
of Jetta. We found him and his soldiers await-
ing our arrival in a market-place, through which
we had to pass. This market-place, like nearly
all others, is shaded with large trees. The cabo-
ceer received us with great courtesy, his guard
keeping up an irregular fire of musketry. After
the usual compliments between both parties, we
were presented with plenty of provisions brought
from their own town. Having refreshed ourselves.

mm

WESTERN AFRICA. 57

I presented the caboceer and several of his head
men with some trifling articles of hardware. Jetta
is between the two mountains^ Jetta and Kpaloko.
The longitudinal form of these mountains is north
and south.

At four miles, the path changing to east, we
crossed a fine brook, named Awadakoo, the small
tributary streams of which were strongly impreg-
nated with iron. In the valley we found numerous
blocks of pebbles combined together with iron.
At five miles we passed through the ruins of the
ancient town of Kpaloko, where the King was
killed, as well as the King of Eyo, who succeeded
the former king of that country, who had brought
his army to the plains of Paweea, where his army
was destroyed, as I have before mentioned. Kpa-
loko is of very curious formation, being nearly per-
pendicular at the sides, and the top like an acute
arch. This mountain seems formed of a succession
of concave scales, varying in thickness from twenty
to thirty feet, and placed one upon another. These
scales are formed of very hard granite of large
grain. Several of these scales had parted near the
centre of the top longitudinally, and slipped from
their position down the side of the mountain,
resting with their lower edges on the ground, and
forming buttresses of five hundred feet long, and
seventy feet high, leaving a space of about forty-

d3

K TBAYBLS m

eight feet from the foot of the moimtain, or block,
to the foot of the buttress.

On examiDing the ruins of this liirge town, I
found not one hut left stfmding, showing the sad
and desolating effects of war. This place had
once the character of being the greatest manu-
facturing town in the kingdom of Mahee, extend-
ing her commerce through nearly the whole of
that country, as well as that of Anni^oo. [N'ow all
was silent as death-— not a note or flutter even of
any thing of the winged tribe was heard. The
intense heat of the sun, without a breath of air,
rendered the scene truly mout^iful and solitary.
I could not help reflecting upon the natural attach-
ment of the natives to particular spots, for although
this town had been destroyed for years, the sur-
viving natives still cultivated the gardens and the
land formerly occupied by their ancestors and
relatives. This circumstance is, however, little to
be wondered at, for each house is invariably the
family sepulchre,

< The path now changed its bearing to N.E.
Being the rainy season, the ground was very
moist. And there are many good and perma-
nent springs, whose streams run longitudinally
with the mountain, from which the natives of the
towns, now built on the top of the moimtain,
receive their supplies when their tanks which

<are formed by nature on the top of the moun-
tain are exhausted. At six miles the path ran
NN.E.^ with rock on both sides^ Mount Koliho,
and the town of the same name^ being dose on
our left. The oaboceer met us in the path with
provision and water^ as well as some peto for
our refreshment.

After resting a quarter of an hour, we again
proceeded on our march along the side of a smooth
gi'anite rock, so much on the dip or incline that
mjr horse could scarcely keep his footing, though
he was very sure-footed. After passing about a
quarter of a mile over this dangerous road, the
path ran along a narrow and small stream of clear
water, with pebbly bottom. This reminded me
of some of my native glens, the haunts of my
boyhood. The rich luxuriant shrubs and trees
intermingled overhead, forming festoons, woven
together by various running plants of the sweetest
odour, rendered this part of the path truly delight-
ful and refreshing.

At seven miles the path changed to N. 60° W.,
iand we crossed a rapid stream, named Nanamie,
running N. At seven miles and a half we passed
over a granite mountain, with good spring wells
on the top. At eight miles the valley became
narrow, with high mountains on each side of the
•path. The mountain on the left is named Laow,

60 TRAVELS IN

tiB is also the town. The caboceer^ with his
attendants and soldiers^ met us in the path,
with plenty of provisions and water, as well
as rum, of which my people drank very freely.
Having presented this caboceer with some trinkets
and a flask of rum, we resumed our journey.
The character of this mountain differs consider-
ably from those in the neighbourhood, being
divided into different sections of various thick-
ness and strata, running N.E. and S.W., at^ dip
of 12'* towards E. by S.

At eight miles and a half, NN. W., and at nine
miles, NN.E., I noticed a fine brook and cascade,
running south, named Kossieklanan ; and on the
east side, I observed a mountain, named Tamar-
gee,-0f considerable magnitude. Here the palm
and shea butter-tree grow in great abundance, but
the butter-trees have all undergone the operation
of scorching. At ten miles and a half I observed
a chain of mountains, running north and south,
iistant from the path two miles ; the northernmost
d( these is named Sawee.

On these mountains is a sort of yellow and
/ery fine grass, equal to the finest needles, and
about two feet high, growing in tufts similar to
rushes. It appears at a distance as if the herbage
wen entirely scorched, being about the colour of
yellow ochre. A shrub of the same colour

WESTERN AFRICA. 61

grows here, about ten feet high, with leaves
placed on the tree very similarly to our box, but
about three times the length.

At twelve miles and a half, and distant from the
path two miles to the right, are the mountains
Lofo and Apakissa; and at thirteen miles, a moun-
tain, named Bowha, close on the right of the path.
Here is in the path a very fine spring, at the tem-
perature of 62% the water quite clear and less
impregnated with iron than most others.

At fifteen miles Mount Koglo rose before us,
eighteen hundred feet high, close to the left of the
path, with a very large town on the top. Here
we were not met by the caboceer or any of
his people, as in other towns belonging to the
King of Dahomey, but found they had been
making bad fetish, as the natives term it, in the
path. They had killed a white fowl and filled
an earthen pot with palm-oil and some other
composition, sticking the feathers into this
composition and placing the pot in the path.
This is considered by them to be one of the
greatest insults which can be offered. However,
I endeavoured to convince them that their bad
fetish was of no avail. Still my people seemed
rather alarmed in passing it, turning some distance
out of the path.

62 TRATBL8 IK

A little farther on, we came to a market-plaee,
attended only by some few women boUh^ peto ;
but as these people were from the town of Koglo,
the caboceer gave strict injunctions that none
of our party should purchade anything. A
messenger was immediately despatched to Abo-
mey to inform the King of the conduct of the
caboceer of Koglo^ who, no doubt, will pay dearly
for his bad fetish to the King's stranger; they
are sure to be invaded next year. They were
drfe.«d 0^ j^. but ».« di. period Jc*,.
ceer died, and his successor denies his allegiance
to the King of Dahomey ; but he will no doubt
be glad to succumb, after a severe chastisement.
At seventeen miles we came upon a brook named
Lothay, running east, and a fine extensive plain
to the eastward.

At twenty miles we reached the beautiful town
of Whagba. About a mile and a half from l^e
town we were met by the fine venerable caboceer
and his attendants, who paid us every mark of re-
spect, and drank water and then rum with us, his
soldiers keeping up a continual fire, and beating
their drums the whole distance into the town.
The town of Whagba is fenced round with the
prickly bush, which forms a hedge of about twenty
yards wide. After passing through this outer

■HVUHP

WESTERN AFBICA. 63

fence^ and about one hundred yacrds diet^jit, is
another waU^ with strong gates, outside of which
is IJie general market-place for strangers. Ipi-
meidiately inside is the principal tpwn-market,
which is held twice every week. Inside is another
wall of hard clay, or swish^ with still stronger
gates. Upon entering the town I was met by
ten of the trading merchants from Abomey^ who
gave me a hearty welcome.

The natives of this town seem a very mild and are
apparently a more independent people, being less
servile to their caboceer, than in any of the Mahee
towns I have yet visited, although the caboceer
seems much revered and esteemed. In the town
I found excellent accommodation, the caboceer
having some time previously to my arrival been
made aware of my intention to visit him, con-
sequently no trouble was spared to make me
comfortable when I arrived. A fine house had
been run up in the space of a fortnight for my
accommodation, built square, and of two stories,
with a ladder outside to ascend to the second
story, quite unusual in any other towns except
Abomey. The walls were yet a little damp^
though the heat is so great.

Soon after my arrival, we were, as usual, sup-
plied with plenty of provisions and also abundance
of peto. After having refreshed ourselves, we

64 TRAVELS IN

were honoured by a visit from the caboceer and
his retinue, with whom we entered freely into
conversation. It appeared that he was a great
favourite with the King of Dahomey, consequently
he was vested with considerable power beyond
what is generally allowed to any of the caboceers
I had yet visited, except Kpatchie, of Zoglogbo.
The caboceer of Whagba was like a petty king or
ruler over several minor towns in the neighbour-
hood, within a circle of twenty miles. He was
also allowed to govern his town at his own
discretion as far as regards their domestic laws
or customs, but their criminal laws were strictly
Dahoman.

Sunday, July 20th. — A caboceer arrived from
a town named Teo, at some distance from
Whagba, named Athrimy. He brought several
people with him, both head men and slaves, and
with them about ten bushels of ready cooked
provisions, and also one fine bull for the King of
Dahomey, and another for myself. The caboceer,
Athrimy, seemed much gratified in having an
opportunity of shewing his loyalty to his sovereign
by presenting me, the King's stranger, and my
people, with provisions gratis ; although, of course,
I gave them several articles of European manu-
facture in return.

This caboceer, as well as the ruler of Whagba,

■p

WESTERN AFRICA. .65

.seemed to take great pleasure in making in-
quiries respecting England, our gracious sove-
reign, and our laws. They remained in conver-
sation with me full three hours, their principal
men being also present. Both of them seemed
amused and astonished. After our palaver was
finished, the guard of soldiers who accompanied
Athrimy, musketeers and bowmen, all com-
menced their native war-dance. Then my Daho-
man guards performed their dance. Afterwards,
as is customary on such occasions, I presented
the caboceers and head men with some rum, which
art all times is very readily accepted ; although in
Dahomey a drunkard is much despised, and even
punished, unless the party should be one of the
King's jesters, of whom his Majesty keeps a con-
siderable number.

Many of the caboceers in the Mahee country,
as well as on the coast, consider the greatest
proof of their riches and power to consist in their
having the means of getting intoxicated at least
once every day. The caboceer Athrimy had
heard of my entering the names of some of the
caboceers and head men of Dahomey in my book,
and requested, as a great favour, that his own
name and those of his head men might be inserted
in my book, deeming this to be the highest honour

66 TRAVELS IN

which could possibly be conferred upon them. As
the enumeration of the names^ therefore, may be
of service to future travellers (since nothing will
secure the confidence and friendship of these
Africans more surely than the fact of a stranger
visiting their country and inquiring for any of
them), I here set them down.

After entering the names of the principals they
determined upon giving me a puzzler, by desiring
me to call the roll of the names I had already
entered, and when each name had been called,
and each individual had answered to his name,
they all seemed quite amazed, expressing their
conviction that white man was equal to their
great fetish in knowledge and power. Their
names were as follows : —

1. Epaloo. 5. Koothaj. 9. Koyakvaj.

2. Damossee. 6. Bosa. 10. Dadamy.*

3. Eawpnhoo. 7. Eossan Maboo. 11. Baadoo.

4. ChasBoo. 8. Semanoo. 12. Dyahoo.

13. Wayhee, the caboceer*B principal or favourite wife.

Soon afler this ceremony my friends departed,
returning me a thousand thanks for the presents
which I had given them, and hoping that I would
soon again visit their country.

* Commander-in-chief of the militia.

^SSTEBN AFRICA. 67

I then went out to yisit the yarious krooms
in the yicinit j of Whagba^ which were numerous.
I, took my gun with me, as partridges are very
plentiful here, and very large. My people were
very much delighted at seeing me shoot the first
one flying. The body of the partridge is nearly
as heavy as the English pheasant. The turtle-
dove is also abundant here, as also the wood-
pigeon (exactly similar to those in England,) and
the house-pigeon. Many other sorts of pigeons
are also found here of various plumage — ^green
body, yellow and blueish green wings, with a
red circle round the eyes. The crown-bird is
here domesticated, and the] vulture and eagle are
also abundant, as well as several other birds of
prey. I here observed several bulbous plants,
bearing a beautiful flower, not before noticed in
my travels.

An incident took place during my absence,
which, although absurd, may be worthy of notice
here, since it serves to show the ridiculous ideas
and manners of the natives. During my tempo-
rary absence from the town, the man who had
charge of my horse had been persuaded to accept
a bribe &om the caboceer to allow my horse,
which was entire, to serve a very handsome mare,
presented to the caboceer by the King of Dahomey.

68 TRAVELS IN

As soon as the mare was brought near my horse,
he became unruly and broke from his fastening,
and by some means tore or pulled off one of his
shoes. This caused me to inquire by what means
it occurred, believing that some of my people
had been beating it, but every one denied all
knowledge of the shoe being off. I then declared
that I would punish the man in charge of my
horse for neglect of duty, knowing that if he were
at his post he must be aware by what means my
horse had lost his shoe. This threat had the de-
sired effect, and the man openly confessed that he
had been tempted by the reward of one head of
cowries,* (which at this place is forty- seven
strings, each string containing thirty-three cow-
ries,) or one dollar, (in this part of the country
of more value than five sovereigns would be in
England,) to allow it, although it is believed
amongst these uncivilized beings that he is thus
entirely spoiled during the rest of his life, and is
rendered quite unfit to carry a rider after. This
shows plainly the absence of principle, for this
man who had charge of my horse was a captured
slave, and had received a good education at the
government school at Sierra Leone ; but passion

* After proceeding some diBtance into the interior the cowrie
increases in value.

WESTERN AFRICA. 69

BO far overcame principle, that for one dollar he
would sacrifice my horse.

The caboceer, who was soon made aware of my
having learned all the facts of the case, became
alarmed, naturally supposing that I should feel
much annoyed at such conduct, and dreading lest
I should make the case known to the King of
Dahomey. He was so much alarmed, indeed,
that he would not venture into my presence during
the whole of the afternoon, but several of his mes-
sengers visited me, requesting to know if I had
every thing I wanted, and informing me that it
was their master's wish I should -be furnished
with any thing I might require. In the evening
the caboceer and several of his head men and
principal wives, and also several of his daughters,
ventured to visit me. Upon approaching me, the
old man in front, the whole party prostrated them-
selves on the ground, throwing dust over their
heads and shoulders, until I had assured the cabo-
ceer of my forgiveness, at the same time telling
him that had he asked me, he should have been
welcome to the use of my horse. I also remon-
strated with him upon the absurd notion enter-
tained by them. To my no small surprise, the old
man presented me with his youngest daughter
for a wife, who was a mulatto, telling me she

70 TRAVEL8 IN

would be useful to wash my clothes. Upon my
declining his offer^ the old man seemed rather
offended, until I informed him that a6 Afri-
can wives were considered by their husbands to
be also their slaves, I could not, without a breach
of the laws of my own country, accept his
offer. I told him, however, that I should make
my proffered wife a present of a few smaD cotton
handkerchiefs, and when I again passed through
his country I should call for his daughter. This
reconciled the old man, and I believe gave his
favourite child much more satisfaction than leav-
ing for ever her home to become a white man's
slave.

The old man furnished myself and people with
an excellent supper and plenty of peto. I in-
vited him to spend the evening with me, and
partake of a glass of grog, which he very willingly
accepted, and we parted for the night the best of
friends.

July 21st. — Early in the morning, a messenger
came to my house to inquire after my health, and
about an hour afterwards an excellent breakfast
was sent for myself and people. I had to put on
the cast shoe on my horse, which was a difficult
task, as I had not proper nails, and the hoofs of
the African horses are so hard that a nail can

WESTEBN AFBICA, 71

scarcely be driven without the assistance of a
brad-awl. Fortunately, however, I had a few
common nsdls and a shoemaker's hammer, so that
by beating the nails a little thinner^ and using the
awl, I managed to fix the shoe, and prepared for
my journey back to Baflfo. The caboceer had
ordered all his soldiers to prepare to accompany
me as a sort of convoy out of the town.

All being arranged, the old man, and his nu-
merous family and principal people, led the pro-
cession, and we passed out of the gates of the town,
when immediately a running fire waa commenced
by the soldiers of Whagba. After accompanying
me about a mile, the old man signified his inten-
tion of returning, and coming close to my horse
he prostrated himself and bade me farewell ; but I
begged that he would dispense with such humilia-
tion, assuring him that a white man did not
require it. He expressed his high sense of the
honour conferred upon him by the King sending his
white stranger to visit him. He said he had heard
there were white people, but never expected to see
one, but hoped that I would soon again return,
assuring me that my new bride should be waiting
for me whenever I came back, and that every
comfort should be furnished me, free of expense,
whenever I might visit his country. We then

72

TRAVELS IN

shook hands and parted^ the old caboceer with
tears in his eyes.

I forgot to mention the names of the caboceer
and head-men of Whagba ;♦ they are as follow —

Caboceer^B name .

. Agoa.

Fifth Head-man . . Bow.

First Head-man .

. Cantra.

Sixth do. . . Baja.

Second do.

. Bossa.

Seventh do. . . Wynho.

Third do.

. Bansa.

Eighth do. . . Haigh,

Fourth do.

. Whyo.

Commander-in-chief.

Head-women's names — Wossee, Agwbydhe.

On my return to BafFo we proceeded by the side
of the mountain of Kpaloko opposite to that we
passed before, consequently we visited other parties
to those we had met on my journey to Whagba.
The first was the caboceer of Mount Laow, whose
name was Minakoko. On my return I found
him on the side of the path, with a number of his
head men, and carriers with provisions, in all twenty-
five large calabashes full together with a fine
young bull. The caboceer of Massey also met ma
at the same place, presenting me with the same
quantity of provisions as the above, which were
more than we could all devour. After marching
about two miles in a beautiful valley, well watered

* Matcholee, one of the principal men of Whagba, was selected
as one of the most intelligent men in the Mahee country, and
summoned to Abomey to be my guide through that country.

WESTERN AFRICA. 73

iMicl cultivated, with Kpaloko oh one side and
Mount Laow on the other, as well as other moun-
tains equally steep and difficult of access, we
were again met by the caboceer of a town on the
side of Moimt Laow named Filaly, with fifty-five
calabashes of provision, in all about twenty bushels;
he also presented me with a very fine buU,
and the caboceer of my guard with two goats*
Kodeko-Sedgenakaw was his name, and he was
one of the instances of surnames.

In passing this valley of several miles in
length, and of three quarters of a mile in breadth,
I could not help observing its natural defences
as a military position. On our left was Kpa-
loko, whose steep sides are totally inaccessible,
and Mount Laow, running parallel on the opposite
side of the valley, equally steep and inaccessible,
although not so high. Supposing this valley were
walled across (which is narrow at each end) with
batteries on the top, and properly armed, a disci-
plined army might, with proper resources, defy any
number of enemies. The valley is composed of
excellent soil, and rears annually four crops of the
small red Indian corn. This sort, I believe, would
grow in our British isles; and, with other ve-
getables, which grow with equal rapidity, would
support an army constantly, capable of defending

VOL II. E

74 TRAVELS DC

it during any siege, however prolonged. It lias
numerous springs, besides a considerable stream,
which passes along in a serpentine course.

After reaching the end of this interesting valley,
we were met at the market-place on the side of
the path, under some large trees, by the caboceer
of Kpaloko, who presented me with thirty-nine
calabashes of provision and a fine bull. His
name was Janko. While resting under the shade
of the ^gantic trees I could not help looking
back with wonder on the singular work of the
Supreme Ruler of Nature. The immense blocks,
which might well be called mountains of granite,
we had passed, thrown together in a confused mass
or heap, overhanging the valley in awful grandeur,
presented certainly the most interesting scene of
the kind I had ever witnessed. This caboceer was
very communicatiye and intelligent, and, I learnt,
was much loved and respected by his people.

After resting about an hour, and distributing
some presents, as I had done to all the caboceers
and head men on my journey, we marched on our
return for Baffo, which we reached in the evening,
where I again took up my old quarters.

July 22d. — ^Early in the morning, Jeka Hou-
soo, caboceer of Mount Joko, came all the way to
Baffo, with twenty-two calabashes of provisions

WESTERN AFRICA. 75

for my breakfast. I had now made up my mind
to remain at Baffo, and explore the neighbourhood
of this romantic place, and, if possible, to ascertain
the name of the mountains already mentioned
in my Journal. They appeared to me to be
the same as those described by the old Maho-
medan priest, (who paid me several private visits,
according to the custom at Abomey,) as the Dab-
a-dab* mountains, where I should find Terrasso-
weea, another Mahomedan priest, who was living
in Yaouri, and present at the murder of Mungo
Park, and who would be able to give me every
information I might require respecting the melan-
choly fate of that unfortunate traveller. • All
mj inquiries, however, were in vain. When I
asked any person unconnected with my own party,
their answer uniformly was, that they did not
know the name of these mountains; they could
only just perceive them in the distance ; that they
were too far away to know their name ; and that
I must ask my own caboceer.

I had already found out that orders had been
given by the King that no person, who was not
quite acquainted with any subject I might require
information upon, was to pretend to answer any

* Bababab is, as I have already mentioned, a sort of dumpling,
made without fat, composed of the meal of the Indian corn.

E 2

76 TRAVELS m

inquiries. But even mj own caboceer pretended
ignorance of the name of these mountains. I
therefore determined to steal a march, if pos-
sible, from my guard of soldiers, although I was
aware it would be attended with difficulty as well
as hazard to mjself and those who accompanied
me. I went out and returned again frequently
during the day, from short shooting excursions,
till the caboceer of my guard considered a few
men sufficient to attend me during these ram-
bles in the neighbourhood. This was just what I
was idming at. When I found my object so far
attained, I called my own private servants, Thomas
and John, and told them of my intention to visit
the distant mountains I had that day been observ-
ing through my telescope, informing them that
these mountains were, beyond a doubt, the same
as those described by the old priest at Abomey
as the place where we should find Terrasso-weea.

They were, they said, of the same opinion ;
but when I again told them of my intention to
visit those mountains, they pointed out many ob-
jections, some of which were not unreasonable.
They were aware of the strict injunctions of the
King to my guard respecting my safety and re-
turn to Abomey, and also that the captain, or cabo-
ceer, of my guard was responsible by his head for

WESTERN AFRICA. 77

my safe return ; they moreover observed, that if
we entered the territory of another prince with an
;irmed force, it would place us in danger* Still
I persevered in my intention of proceeding, and
told them I would make each of them a present of
a handsome piece of cloth, over and above their
pay, upon my return, if they would accompa^ny
me. This was to them a tempting offer for one
day's journey (as we then supposed). They
promised to keep all quiet, and agreed to my
arrangement. I told them that I would go out
early in the morning, as if on a shooting excur-
sion, and directed them to bring with them
one head of cowries, and a small box, contain-
ing a few clasp knives and some small scissors,
Jew's harps, needles, and thimbles. With these
few articles we went out to shoot; and as I
generally shot off my horse's back, no suspicion
of my intentions was evinced by any of the rest
of my party.

It fortunately happened, that early on this morn-
ing the caboceer from Mount Awya, whose name
is Cassoo, had brought us plenty of provision and
live-stock, namely, a goat, a fowl, some yams,
and five strings of cowries, so that I had an
opportunity of leaving when the soldiers were at
breakfast Only three soldiers accompanied me.

78 TBATEL8 DT

one of whom happened to be a FeOattah. After we
had gone about fiye nules, and I not vpfCMnB^ to
notice the different birds, mj attendants pcnnted
out to me the palm and shea butter nut trees as
we passed, and appeared to become uneasj^, Isoadly
hinting that it was now time to return. However,
I was determined not to let the present oppor-
tunity slip, but at once told them that I intended
to visit a friend who was at present trading in
a town close at the foot of the distant high
mountains.

The path bore (true) North 50* towards East
The land is level and rich loam, and well watered
from chalky or pipe-clay springs. After leaving
Bflffo a few miles, nothing of cultivation shows
itself till within a few miles of the town of
Zafoora, where the soil is well cultivated, and
crops of maize and Guinea com are abundant;
yams and manioc are also plentiful. Palm-nuts
and ground nuts also abound; and here the shea-
butter is in common use for burning in their
lamps, which are of a very simple construction,
being merely a shallow earthen vessel in the shape
of a saucer* Their method of trimming their lamps
is as simple as the construction of the lamp itself:
a piece of wick is twisted from the native cotton
which is abundant here, and coiled up in llie vessel.

WESTERN AFRICA. 79

then a quantity of the shea butter, about the con-
sistence of hog's-lard, is pressed into the lamp, on
the top of the wick. The lamp thus trimmed is
placed in a small niche, several of which are
left in the wall when the house is built. As
the heat of the lighted wick approaches, the
butter melts into a liquid like oil, and bums
extremely clear, without any unpleasant smell.

80 TRAVELS IN

CHAPTER IV.

Zafoora— Terror of the Natives — Cold Keception by the King—
My Disappointment— Exorbitant Charge — Unpleasant Posi-
tion — Palaver with the King — Scene of the Defeat of the
Dahomans — Inhospitality — The Shea-bntter, and other Trees
— The Gwbasso— Prevalent Diseases — Soil — The Velvet
Tamarind — Wearisome Journey — Akwaba— Cold Beception
by the '^Caboceer — His Disappointment — Slave Trade — Hard
Bargain — Manufacture of Indigo— Hardware — The Ziffii —
King Chosee and his Cavalry — Their Hostile Attitude — Mo-
ment of Danger — EesuH of a Firm Demeanour— Respect
shewn by the King and Natives — Enter Eoma with a Band of
Music — Kind Reception — Introduction to the King's Wives —
Palaver with the King — The Niger known here as the Joleeba
— Presents to the King— Babakanda — ^Exorbitant Charges for
P*rovisions — Manufactures — Ginger, Rice, &c. — Seka — Bustle
of the Caboceer — Slave-Market — Trade Monopolized by the
Caboceer — The Kolla-nut — Honey — Peto— Palaver with the
Caboceer — Soil— Assofoodah — Hostile Reception — Palaver —
Ridiculous Confusion — Inhospitality.

Upon my near approach to the town of Zafoora,
the people employed in the fields appeared, but
fled from their employment, halting at short
intervals and looking backward, like startled
cattle. However, as we came nearer to the
entrance of the town, they seemed more bold
and awaited our approach. A messenger on the
look-out had doubtless informed the caboceer

WESTERN AFRICA. 81

or king of our approach, and he had sent a mes-
senger or head man to inquire what we wanted,
from whence we came, and if we bore any
message or presents for him; but my reply was,
that I merely came to see himself. I remained
outside the inner gate till the messenger returned,
who was detained some time. My people now
showed some symptoms of alarm, and we found by
experience that we were not under the protection
of the good King of Dahomey. No ready-cooked
provisions, no prostrations, or cheerful welcome,
but all looked curiosity and suspicion. At length
the messenger returned, informing us that the
King would shortly be ready to receive us. Ac-
cordingly, in about a quarter of an hour after-
w^ards, he made his appearance, surrounded by his
head men and soldiers. The soldiers, who were
bowmen and spearmen, exhibited the most singular
gestures as they approached till within a few
paces, when the whole party halted. The King in
person then desired to know if it were himself
I wanted. During this inquiry he eyed me with
apparent doubt or suspicion, I told him I hoped
I saw him well and happy, but I had another
object in view besides coming to see him, which
was to visit a merchant, a Mahomedan fetish-man,
named Terrasso-weea.
As soon as I mentioned this man, the King, as if

£3

82 TRAVELS IN

aroused from stupor, was all politeness and con-
descension ; but to my great disappointment and
dismay, I was informed that my friend had left
that town, after a long sojourn, for one at a great
distance in the interior. This seemed almost like
a death-blow to me, and I could also observe that
my people were much disheartened, as well as foot-
sore and tired. My poor fellows were glad to lie
down, and my little horse seemed a little tired,
although I had walked some considerable distance.
I had travelled forty-four miles, almost without
halting. Concealing as much as possible my
disappointment, I began to make some inquiry
where I could purchase some fowls. The King
immediately ordered some to be brought, from
which I selected two, but was astonished when,
upon asking the price, I was told twelve strings
of cowries for each fowl. This was an exorbi-
tant charge, as the selling price amongst each
other is l^d. ; however, I was obliged to comply
with the extortion, although I had only one head
of cowries with me, not expecting to be absent
more than a day. It is true I had some articles
of hardware, but although they would greedily
have accepted them as presents, yet money —
money seemed to speak their language better than
any thing else, as in fact it does in all countries.
This circumstance was rather a damper upon a

WESTERN AFRICA. 83

private scheme 1 had then in contemplation. During
the time our meal was being cooked, which was
both our dinner and supper, I made inquiry how
far distant the place was to which the merchant
had gone, and was informed that, supposing I com-
menced my journeys every morning before the rising
of the sun, and walked fast, without stopping to
eat till the sun was gone out of sight, I should reach
the place in eight or nine days at farthest. One
man said he had once been with this Mahomedan
priest, and returned from Adafoodia in seven days.
I was informed by the King of Zafoora, that the
merchant had a white man in his company. This
information was a stimulus to my determination
to pursue my object of obtaining information.
The white man I conjectured must have been a
man named Bell, who had obtained a free passage
from England to Fernando Po, whence he said he
intended to proceed up the Niger to the confluence
of the Shadda, thence up that river to the lake
Shad, and there remain three years. This I
was told on the coast, but from what I had already
experienced of the African climate, I feared that his
calculations were too extravagant, still I could come
to no other conclusion than that the white man
spoken of by the King must be the same.

I now began to reflect upon my present position.
First, I had left my guard in a clandestine manner.

84 TRAVBLS IK

and in all probability I might be the means of an
excellent man (mj caboceer) losing his head.
Next, I might incur the displeasure of the Bang of
Dahomey, who had been my real friend; and,
lastly, I might probably sacrifice those who accom-
panied me. I had, however, already made a seri-
ous breach, and I determined to proceed at all
hazards, resolving to send the weakest of my three
soldiers back to Baffo, to inform the caboceer of
my guard that my friend had gone on a few days'
journey, accompanied by a countryman whom I
was anxious to see, and desired him to make him-
self easy till my return, which would be as soon as
possible.

The King of Zafoora entered into a lengthened
inquiry respecting the Dahomans, but I dared not
acknowledge the patronage of the King of Dahomey,
nor yet let him know that the soldiers accompanying
me belonged to him, otherwise I might have been
deemed a spy. It was now that I learned the rea-
son the Dahomans would not know the name of the
Dabadab Mountains. Many years ago the Daho-
mans besieged those mountains ; but after remain-
ing near their foot, and suffering much from small-
pox and fever, which they deemed to proceed from
the vengeance of their own fetish, they raised
their unsuccessful siege, and those who survived
returned in shame to Abomey ; upon which a pro-

WESTERN AFRICA. 85*

clamation ;wa8 issued that the name of these moun-
tains should never again be mentioned, or the
small-pox, as that disease is very much dreaded on
the whole of the west coast, as well as in the interior,
I was glad when the King ceased his inquiries, for
toy people required rest as Avell as myself. We
were allowed to remain in this hut during the night
with my horse tied up outside. One fowl was re-
served for our breakfast in the morning — ^rather a
scanty allowance for all of us ; but we had stored
our havresacks pretty well with heads of corn,
which was nearly ripe at this season, and very
sweet. Although the caboceer, after my in-
quiry respecting Terrasso-weea, appeared tole-
rably friendly, and eager to receive any little
article as a present, he never offered me anything
in return.

July 24th. — Early In the morning we com-
menced our journey, having made a hurried and
rather scanty breakfast. One of my soldiers re-
turning to Baffo, I had now only four persons
besides myself. The path bore N. 35° W. vary-
ing to N. 10** W. and N. 15'* W. (true)
bearing. The country was level and well watered,
open and studded with small clumps of bushes
and shea butter- trees as well as palm. On the
plain I observed many large sycamore-trees, with
very large leaves, and the bark rather more rough

<

i

86 TRAVELS IN '

than those in England. The acacia is also very
abundant in this neighbourhood. At six miles we
reached the river Gwbasso, which is of consider*
able magnitude, being twenty yards wide, and
twelve feet deep. The banks were nearly level
with the water, the river running eastward at
the rate of three miles per hour. It abounds with
alligators of great size, as well as hippopotamL

Little of interest occurred during this day's
journey : we only passed a few miserable krooms,
where kankie and water were sold to travellers,
each kroom growing merely enough of com to
supply their own wants. Small-pox and yaws
seemed to have made great havoc amongst the na-
tives ; probably, on that account, intercourse with
their neighbours was strictly forbidden.

At about twenty miles, we halted by the side
of a small rivulet, running eastward. It had
cut a deep channel in the soil, which was at this
place red and crumbly, resembling that in the
vicinity of our copper-mines in England. On
the banks were numerous shrubs and brambles,
and plenty of the velvet-tamarind trees. Here
we lighted a fire under the shade of one of these
last-mentioned trees, where we had a glorious feast
upon roasted com ; but my little horse relished the
the com very well without taking the trouble to
roast it.

WESTERN AFRICA. 87

We remained about an hour and a half, when
we resumed our journey, my men complaining of
the soreness of their feet, for the road was now
very rough with red pebbles, which bruise^ them
very much. After a tiresome journey of thirty-
one miles, we arrived at the town of Akwaba.
Here we were obliged to wait a considerable
time before we could be admitted into the inner
gates of the town, the caboceer having to or-
nament himself previous to making his appear-
ance; and here also the caboceer received us
rather coolly, seeming to be very anxious to
know my object in coming to visit his country.
I was aware that it was of no use to explain that
I came with scientific views, so I told him I
came to see himself and my friend, (as I called
him,) Terrasso-weea. This name seemed to gain
me welcome every where, and I foimd it very
convenient. We were invited into the market-
place to make our palaver, and some water was
handed us to drink. This pleased me and my
people much, as we were aware that this was the
truest mark of their friendship ; but they offered
us nothing to eat, although I can answer, the
packman 8 drouth was at that moment most press-
inff>* However, we were obliged to submit to
a great many idle questions, respecting white men's

* In Scotland^ the "packman's drouth" is-hungerfor food.

88 TRAVELS m

countiy, and also respecting the Dahoman country,
which they seemed to dread much, and exclaimed
much against the Dahomans for not allowing guns
and other articles of trade to pass through into
the Fellattah country.

The caboceer seemed much disappointed when
he found, upon inquiry, that I was not come to pur-
chase slaves, informing me that he had got plenty
to supply me with at a very cheap rate. He said
he could conceive no other motive for white man
coming to black man's country, unless to trade in
some way or other. I told him I had been trad-
ing, but my goods were nearly exhausted, and
shewed him some Jew's harps and needles.
These he admired, but still he preferred money
(cowries), but would like a present to keep in
remembrance of me. This I told him was all
very well, but I wanted to barter for some food.
After much higgling, we made a hard bargain
for some fowls and a large duck, which we were
obliged to keep an eye upon, lest he should be
again restored to his family. Had we killed him
he would have been spoiled before morning, as
nothing of animal life will keep good more than
a few hours. Our method of taking the feathers
off was by dipping the fowls in hot water, which
saved a great deal of trouble. We purchased a
small quantity of red rice, which grows in this

WESTERN AFRICA. 89

country, and with the two fowls and some shalots,
we managed to make an excellent meal, after
which we were left to repose in a tolerably com-
fortable hut, but without mat or bedding of any
description. The natives here are nearly all
Mahomedan, but are not scrupulous as to the
creed or habits of others, having been mixed
up so much with Pagans throughout their long
wars a few years back.

Early on the morning of the 25th we again
breakfasted off cold fowl'^and some cold boiled com.
One of the soldiers fastened the Muscovy drake's
feet together, and tied him to his havresack ; and
thus we commenced our march from Akwaba, the
path leading northward, narrow, arid worn very
deep, which was caused by the* water running along
it. The land was still level, with stunted trees of
various descriptions, to me unknown by name. At
seven miles we passed a small kroom, where indigo
was rudely manufactured by pounding or grinding
the leaves upon a stone upon which they also grind
corn. When ground sufficiently it is made up
into round balls about the size of a cricket-ball,
and exposed in the market for sale. Iron is
manufactured in this country. In this kroom
hoes for agricultural use are made in a superior
manner, as also stirrups, similar to those used by

90 TRAVELS IN

the Moors in the neighbourhood of Tangiers and
El-Arish. Bits for horses' bridles are also manu-
factured here of a very severe description, the
cross-bar or mouth-piece having in its centre a
ring large enough to allow the horse's under-jaw
to pass easily through it : this ring of course acts
both as bit and curb, but is very likely to break
the horse's jaw, which is very frequently the case
in the Fellattah country.

In the neighbourhood of this kroom we again
stocked our havresacks with com, which was of a
superior sort, being smaller in the grain, and very
sweet. At twelve miles we crossed the river
ZiiFa, which runs eastward. This river is of little
magnitude, though navigable by canoes of a large
size. The country in the vicinity of the path was
nearly level, but low table-mountains might be
observed at a great distance to the eastward. At
twenty-seven miles we arrived at the cultivated
land in the vicinity of the town of Koma. It
appears that as soon as our presence was known
in the Fellattah country, and the route which
we were pursuing, messengers had been des-
patched before us to apprise the caboceers of our
coming.

When about a mile from the town, while passing
through the com plantation, we were met by

WESTERN AFRICA. 91

Chosee, the King of this province, preceded by a
host of cavaby, of extraordinary appearance,
who came to meet us, flourishing their short
broad-swords above their heads, accompanied by
the wildest yells imaginable. Their horses were
at their speed, but the little animals being over
weighted, did not get over the ground very fast.
My attendants were much alarmed at so unusual
a spectacle, never having seen any mounted
soldiery before. They halted in astonishment,
not knowing whether they were our friends or ene-
mies. I cannot but confess that I felt something
of the same uncertainty myself; however, long
exposure to danger and privation have a wonderful
influence in preparing the mind for the various
chances of travelling in a barbarous country, and
we are often carried through scenes of danger and
difficulty scarcely without noticing them at the
moment they occur, though upon subsequent re-
flection we often shudder at the idea of the danger
we ran. I told my men not to be alarmed or
show any symptoms of fear. They marched
in single file close to my horse's heels, but I
directed them that if an attack were made upon
us, the act of my drawing my sword was to be a
signal of defence, as it would be useless for us to
sell our lives cheaply.

92 tEAVKLS IN

Before we had time to saj more^ the party were
close upon us* I was aware that I had a much
superior horse to any I observed amongst this
troop ; and I also knew that I had much superior
weapons to theirs, and that I could destroy a num-
ber of them in a short time ; yet, if they stood, it
was useless to hope for any success against such a
disparity of numbers. However, when they were
about three yards from me, the whole of this con-
fused rabble pulled up short and commenced a
song, each keeping his own time, in praise of
the wisdom and power of their King, the group
opening out from their centre to allow King
Chosee to advance. I was aware that it was
a customary thing for all strangers and inferiors
to prostrate themselves before the kings or supe-
rior rulers ; but I was equally aware that by so
doing I should be lessening the dignity of my
country, as well as their own respect towards
myself. I remained consequently on horseback,
till the King dismounted and was in the act
of prostration, when I desired him not to do so,
as it was not customary in my country. I then
immediately dismounted, and shook hands with
him, which is also a customary form of salutation
in this country. His chiefs and principal men
were then introduced to me. After going through

WESTERN AFRICA. 93

the usiial ceremonies observed upon receiving
strangers of note, I was invited to enter the
town of Koma.

This town, like nearly all others in that coun-
try, is strongly walled and fenced round, with only
two gates. We were conducted to the market-
place, preceded by a rude band of musicians, play-
ing instruments like the ancient hautboy. The
music was rude to the ear of an European, but
still not unpleasant, and my people were quite
delighted with it. I felt myself more at home in
this town than in any place I had passed since
1 left the Mahee country. The King acknow-
ledged that he was made aware that my purpose
in passing through the country was to visit Ter-
rasso-weea. He, it appeared, was much esteemed
as a man of talent, independently of his being
a fetish-man. I was treated by this Bang with
every mark of respect, and even kindness. He
introduced me to his sister, to whom I presented
a few needles and two thimbles.

After returning to the market-place, the King
introduced me to some of his wives, who were
like so many sheep in a pen, over the walls of
which on one side they could conveniently looki
Here I was requested to station myself for show,
like a wild beast in some public menagerie

/

94 TRAVELS IN

Some of the young wives seemed to take great
interest in seeing a white man; others, upon
mj looking steadfastly at tbem, ran back, as if
alarmed. The weather being hot, I felt extremely
thirsty, and asked one of my people to get me
some water; whereupon the multitude of wives
hearing what I requested, were in a moment
all in a bustle which should be the first to present
me with a calabash ftill of water. No doubt
they expected a present for their attention. To
the lady who first presented me with water,
I gave a few needles. The King, perceiving
that I was thirsty, ordered plenty of palm-wine
to be set before me and my people. We were
shortly after invited into one of the King's inner
apartments, where provisions in abundance were
set before us, amongst which I observed a fine
guano, which had been dried like a kippered
salmon, and cooked with native rice. Not much
relishing, however, this alligator-like customer,
I made over the whole of it to my people, and
contented myself with some goat-soup, which
was excellent.

The King made many inquiries respecting my
acquaintance with Terrasso-weea, and how long
I had known him. To these questions I was
rather perplexed how to answer, but was obliged

WESTERN AFBICA. 95

to acknowledge that I had only seen hie friend^
the Mahomedan priest, at the great custom at
Abomey. A great many questions were then
put to me as to how I happened . to come to
Abomey, and if I had ever seen that great war*
rior, the King of Dahomey. I confessed that I had,
but happened merely to be passing through his
country, when he asked me to remain a few days,
as he might have done it himself, and that I was
only travelling across the country to ascertain
whether it would be possible to establislr a trade
with this part of Africa, by bringing guns and
gunpowder to exchange for their produce. Upon
this he seemed much pleased, but quickly asked
me whether we would take slaves in exchange,
I replied that we were more in want of corn and
oil, as well as ivory, all of which he professed to
be able to supply in abundance.

He asked in what way we would pass the mer-
chandise I proposed to barter into his country,
as he said that the great Kings of Dahomey and
Yarriba would not allow any other articles than
such as they approved of to pass through their
country into the interior. To this I replied that
we could come up the great river Niger, which
was not known here by that name ; though I soon
ascertained that he had a perfect knowledge of

96 TRAVELS TS

the unfortunate expedition up that river^ with
the fire canoes^ as he called them; and he even
knew of the disasters which happened to that
expedition, assuring me that that season was
the most fatal to the natives in his own and
other countries in the interior, which had been
known during the lifetime of the oldest man then
living.

The Niger ^appears to be known here only by
the name Joleeba^ not Joliba, Only a few people
here professed to have ever seen it. Fever and
small-pox seem to be the most dreaded of all dis-
eases ; though a very loathsome disease prevails,
which in England is generally called yaws. Some
are so afflicted with it, that the odour from their
person is almost unbearable ; others are one mass
of eruption with holes in the arms and legs even
to the bone.

After we had sufficiently rested ourselves, I
proposed resuming my march, and looked out
some Jew's harps, and a pair of small scissors, with
some needles, as a present to the King, excusing
myself for offering him such trifling articles, by
informing him that I was not aware that I should
come so far, but in my next journey I promised
to make him some more valuable presents. He
then commenced a long list of the articles which

WESTERN AFRICA. V7

he would prefer that I should briiig on my next
Tisit, to which of course I assented.

His Majesty expressed a great desire that I
should remain that night, but as my journey was
long, and I was anxious to get it over, I declined his
kind offer, and resumed my march, accompanied
by a messenger sent by the King to introduce me
to the. chief of the next town, which we reached
in about six miles more. This town is named
Babakanda. Around it the land is in high culti-
vation, bearing excellent crops of various sorts of
corn and rice, as well as many bidbous plants for
consumption. Here we were also tolerably well
received, probably on accoimt of the King's
messenger. This town is much larger than
Koma, and has got a palace or a royal residence,
where the King often resides.

The King Chosee is sovereign of this town as
well as many others in this neighbourhood. The
caboceer of this place received us without great
ceremony, and at first seemed rather shy and
diffident, ,till the King's messenger intimated my
knowledge of Terrasso-weea and my journey to
Adafoodia. He then showed more familiarity and
confidence. We asked him for some wood to
kindle a fire to boil some corn, which we carried
with us, and tried to buy some fowls, but they

VOL. IL F

98 TRAVELS IN

were so very dear, that we could not make a bar-
gain for any of them. They asked sometimes
twenty strings of cowries for one fowl, though, as
I have said, one string and a half was the mar-
ket-price. I was much annoyed at this, but
would even have purchased at their own price, if
they would have taken any of my articles in ex-
change; however, the caboceer would not take
any thing but money in payment, though he asked
greedily for presents. I gave him only a paper of
needles, however, as a remuneration for the wood
with which he supplied us.

The chief manufacture of this town is leather
and sabres of an inferior description, remaining in
whatever position they are bent. Ginger is grown
here in great abundance, as well as rice and yams
of a very large description. The stock of cattle is
also abundant, though not quite so handsome as
those of the Mahee country. The natives are
very shy of intercourse with strangers, conse-
quently I had little opportunity of knowing by
inquiry much of their locality beyond my own
observation. The town appeared to contain about
nine or ten thousand inhabitants.

At day-break on the 26th July we breakfasted
off a few heads of boiled corn, and marched from
Babakanda, bearing N. 33° W., true bearing.

^

WESTERN AFRICA* 99

varying during the day's journey of twenty-eight
miles, from 33° to 25% 20° to 80° W. During
the first twelve miles the country was nearly of
the same character as last described, except that I
observed the springs in this neighbourhood to con-
tain a greater quantity of carbonate of iron. At
thirteen miles we arrived at the town of Seka.
Here we entered with little ceremony, though our
sudden intrusion did not seem quite agreeable to
the caboceer. Probably this feeling was roused by
our not having forwarded a messenger to acquaint
him with our attention of visiting him, so that he
might be able to make a greater display of his
grandeur and show of dress, of which they are
generally very fond. We found him in the market-
place apparently very busy, for he appeared to
monopolize the direction and regulate the prices
of all merchandise and manufactures exposed in
the outer market.

Slaves were exposed in great numbers in the
market for sale, some in irons and others with-
out. It appears that those wearing irons were
strangers, brought from a distance, and the others
were in many instances the children and relatives
of the sellers. It may not be perhaps generally
known, that the children of domestic slaves are
invariably the property of the owners of the

F 2

100 • TRAVEL8 IN

parents^ and are bought and sold in a similar
manner to our cattle^ when disposed of by the
breeders in the public market. The outer market
is outside of the walls, under the shade of large
trees, but when a town or city has two walls, the
public market is held within the outer walls. This
market is often attended by strangers from a great
distance. The private market is invariably held
within the walls ; and if the town is large, there
are several market-places in the most convenient
parts of the town.

The caboceer and his officers retain the power
of regulating the prices, as I have before stated ;
and as the greater part of the trade (with the ex-
ception of any European goods which may find
their way into these remote parts) is entirely in his
hands, on the great public market-days he is always
busily engaged in the purchase of goods for his
private markets. His wives and slaves are then
stationed in the inner markets with different
articles for sale, and many of the younger boys
and girls are sent round the towns in the neigh-
bourhood, hawking light goods for sale.
. The kolla-nut is a great article of trade here,
and seems much prized by the natives. From its
extreme bitterness it is an excellent tonic, and is
very serviceable in promoting moisture in the

WESTERN AFRICA. lOl

mouth when parched for want of water. The
kaom (saltpetre) in its original state is sold here,
but at a much higher rate than in the Mahee
country. Cloths are also manufactured here with
considerable taste, as also bridles and saddles,
ornamented with cowries. The market-places are
arranged similarly to our system in Europe,
different articles being sold in places specially
appointed for their sale.

In rainy weather the market, except for cattle,
is held under the piazzas in front of the houses,
which are very low, but as they always sit cross-
legged, or lie down by their goods, they experience
no inconvenience from the lowness of their dwell-
ings. Honey is abundant here, but as dark in
colour as molasses. The hives are generally taken
in the hollow trunks of trees, when the honey is
pressed from the comb, consequently it is not of
the finest quality. A great quantity of peto is
made here also, and sold in the market at a very
low rate. When made strong, this liquor is very
intoxicating, particularly as it is drunk in a state
of fermentation.

After a short interview with the caboceer, du-
ring which he questioned me as to my purpose in
visiting his country, I was asked to partake of
some peto, which stood in immensely large earthen

102 TRAVELS IN

pots, made in the form of the bottle-gourd, from
which, doubtless, they have taken their pattern.
In reply to his questions I said, that my object was
to ascertain what trade could be done in this part
of the country in the event of my coming next
time with a large quantity of goods. This, I knew,
would please him, and he assured me that I should
certainly get rid of any quantity I might bring.
I told him, that after I had seen Terrasso-weea, I
should return, and bring plenty of goods to his
mart. I was very well aware I should easily
get rid of any quantity of goods if I brought
them, but in all probability at their own price.
I knew, however, that this would be the safest ex-
cuse I could make. I asked the price of slaves,
and was immediately shown a number of male and
female slaves, varying in price from forty-six
thousand to forty-nine thousand cowries.

After receiving orders for different articles on
my return, I resumed my journey, having pre-
sented the caboceer with a pair of scissors and a
few needles. At twenty miles, we crossed the
brook Ithay. Here I found good water, run-
ning eastward over a gravelly bed. The country
was level, and now more gravelly, containing a
considerable quantity of iron. The soil was less
rich, though crops of com were very abundant.

WESTERN AFRICA. 103

The valley forming the source of the brook Ithay
was richly shaded with large trees of luxurious
growth.

At twenty-eight miles, we arrived at the large
town of Assofoodah. Here we were also received
with much apparent suspicion. It was now get-
ting late, and I felt much anxiety to see the ca-
boceer or king, to obtain a hut to sleep in. We
were very tired, and though we had eaten a con-
siderable quantity of corn as we passed along, still
my people, as well as myself, were a good deal
exhausted, and in want of more substantial food.

After considerable delay, the caboceer came to
the outer gate of the town, attended by a num-
ber of bowmen and spearmen. He advanced
with a slow, firm step, with a stem, suspicious
frown upon his features. My poor fellows, who
could speak English, remarked how different our
treatment was when under the protection of the
noble King of Dahomey, as compared with our pre-
sent reception. However, this was not a time to
humble ourselves, and I therefore determined to
assume great consequence, though I was not now
in possession of one single cowrie. I stood by
my horse's head, with folded arms, and assumed
as much consequence as if the place were my own.
"When within about ten paces, the caboceer made a

104 TRAVELS IN '

sudden halt^ his bead men prostrating themselves,
and at the same time asking what I wanted with
their master, whom they styled king.

Upon this I replied, through my interpreter,
that I had come to pay him a visit, and also
for the purpose of trading with them. Though
no further remark was made by them, there
seemed something incredulous in his manner;
and the whole of his people seemed distant
and suspicious. I felt, consequently, much in-
clined to leave the town, and encamp for the
night in the bush; but, upon a second conside-
ration, I thought if any evil were premeditated
towards us, it would be more likely to be put into
execution if we were out of the town than when
under the protection of the King. I therefore
sent a messenger to ask him if he could accommo-
date us with a hut to shelter us, as it was now
raining fast. But he had already observed the
sudden approach of the tornado, and had gone to
order a hut for our accommodation. This was at
some distance, and we were led through small
doors from one court-yard into another.

After passing through several court- yards, I
was told that my horse could proceed no farther,
and must remain where it then was. This I did
not at all relish. The objection made was that

WESTERN AFRICA. 105

the doorways were too low ; whereupon, I ordered
the saddle to be taken ofl^ and the poor animal,
bending itself down, passed through the whole
of the low doorways, through which I could
scarcely thrust myself.

At last we arrived at a tolerably comfortable
court-yard, of a quadrangular form, one side of
which was occupied by large stones for grinding
com. Here a number of good-looking young
females were busily employed in grinding. Upon
my entry, the most ridiculous confusion ensued ;
no retreat was ever more precipitate ; one young
girl pushing down and running over another,
children screaming, even the dogs running, howl-
ing with fear, and upsetting pots of provision, or
anything which stood in their way. By this time
I was wet through, and very glad when shown
my hut, which was quite dark, having no opening
to admit of light except the door-way, which was
little more than three feet high. We were shortly
afterwards furnished with some wood to make a
fire, but we had nothing to cook. I endeavoured
to bargain for some fowls in exchange for needles
or thimbles, but, although they seemed to covet
every thing they saw, money was their only object^
and, though Mahomedans, this seemed their god.
We were consequently obliged to satisfy our*

f3

^*

106 TRAVELS IN

selves with roasting the heads of boiled com which
we still retained in our havresacks. One young
lad engaged to procure me plenty of grass and
corn-leaves for my horse for some needles, which
I readily agreed to. He was so much satisfied
with his wages, that I. easily engaged him to pro-
cure some old com for my horse also. He said
his mother had got a large corn-store, but I found
what he considered a large store did not exceed
fifty or sixty bushels.

He soon returned with plenty of com for my
horse, and a fresh supply of needles seemed to give
him great satisfaction. In a short time my hut
was crowded with boys, each with a bundle of wet
grass, thinking that they would obtain needles in
payment. When I told them that the first supply
was suflGicient, they declared, to- my no small
amusement, that they thought I myself ate grass.
Whether this was their real belief, or whether
merely to obtain money, I am not able to deter-
mine, but I should suppose the latter. After a short
time, the affiighted ladies returned to their em-
ployment, and were with others soon induced to
come to the door of my hut. Some of the
boldest of the crowd ventured to come into my
hut, importuning me for dashes (presents), and
shortly aftierwards made free enough to endeavour

«^

WESTERN AFRICA. 107

to examine the contents of our havresacks; but
by a stem look^ and placing mj hand at the same
time on the hilt of my sword, they made a hasty
retreat.

In about an hour afterwards, the king or chief
returned to my quarters, and some of his attend-
ants brought a small quantity of shea-butter to
trim my lamp afresh. He asked me if I had any
tobacco, or if I had any knives. Having a few
small pocket-knives, I made him a* present of one
and some Jew's harps. We kept a light the
greater part of the night, during which time many
parties came to look at me. This was annoying,
as I so much required rest, and had an unsatisfied
appetite. It was a bad season of the year
for yams, which were not yet ripe, and in this
country too they are of Inferior quality, and very
insipid, being water yams.

108 TRAVELS IN

CHAPTER V.

Inhospitality— Good Fortune— Soil— Mahomedan Town -Hymn
of Welcome— The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.— Manufac-
tures, &c.— The Crown-bird domesticated— Quampanissa—
Market Day— Curiosity of the Natives— A Cranery— Market

' Constables, their Functions— Singular Musical Instrument—
A Palaver with the Caboceer— Bidassoa- Mishap — A Bivouac
—Reception by 'the Caboceer— Palm Wine freely taken by
Mahomedans — Superstition of the Natives — Grain Stores —
Manufactures — Buffaloes— Fruit Trees— Horses, their market
price here— Cattle — Elephants — Manufactures — Game— Me-
thod of drying Venison— Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c. — Kosow
— Terror of the Native Females— Appearance of the Caboceer
—Palaver— Presents to the Caboceer— His Harem — Swim

. across the River Ofo— Its Width, &c.— The Town of Kasso-
Kano — Slave-Market— The Women— Neighbouring Hills —
Iron — Antimony — Native System of smelting Ore — IS^ative
Fuxnace and Bellows — Roguery— Bivouac.

After a very uncomfortable night, and not much
refreshed, we re-commenced at day-break, on the
27th July, our journey, but without breakfast.
We had met with but little hospitality in this
town, consequently our presents were not many
in return. We were escorted to the outer gates
by the chief, who is vested with the sole govern-
ment, and his order is peremptory law amongst
the subjects of this and several other towns. But
although styled king, he can at any moment be

WESTERN AFRICA. 109

divested of his power by the real monarch of the
Fellattah country. As soon as we had parted with
our friend and his people, we began to think of
obtaining something to eat, being aware, that if at
any distance from a town or kroom, we could not
procure any com, as it is only in the neighbour-
hood of towns or villages that the land is culti-
vated.

We very soon had an opportunity of filling our
havresacks, and not long afterwards I had the
good fortune to shoot a Guinea fowl, of an uncom-
mon description, at least to me, as I had seen but
very few previous to this. This bird was very
large, and of a jet-black colour : even the legs
were as black as a sloe. This good fortune seemed
to cheer my men, who before seemed very low in
spirits ; and, to be candid, I was not entirely void
of the same feeling myself.

The path from Assofoodah* bears N. 45° W.,
varying from 45** W. to 10", 25°, and 20° (true).
The country was still level, the soil varying from
gravel to a sort of ruddle, used in marking sheep,
similar to some soils in England. This, when
wet, seems greasy, and is very slippery. It is very
productive.

At four miles we arrived at a small town,
strongly fenced in with a prickly hedge, at least

* AsBofoodah contains s^bout twelve thousand inhabitants. •

110 TRAVELS IN

twenty yards broad, and strongly walled inside,
each fence having a strong gate, as well as being
guarded by a sentinel or watchman. Here we
halted at the inner gate, till a messenger acquainted
the caboceer with our arrival. We were not long
before the caboceer came, attended by two
priests (Mahomedan), who, as they advanced, re-
peated passages of the Koran, at the same time
holding out a small book about three inches wide,
and four inches and a half long, with not v more
than a dozen leaves of a curious sort of paper,
resembling rice paper. This ceremony was some-
thing entirely new to me, consequently I felt not
a little confused, not knowing the meaning of it.

I was soon, however, set at ease through my
interpreter, who, though he was one of the Daho-
man soldiers, was a native of some part of the
Fellattah country. I was determined to wait
patiently to see what would be expected of me,
never oflfering to pay any compliment, though I
could scarcely help thinking that they had already
been paying me one, which I had not yet re-
turned. My interpreter, however, assured me
that this was a customary form upon a friendly
reception of strangers.

After the singing men had concluded their
song or hymn of welcome, they all advanced, and
with all the head men, except the chief himself.

WESTERN AFBICA. HI

prostrated themselves before me. I then ap-
proached^ and^ dismounting, shook hands with the
chief, who made me several graceful bows, each time
repeating the word " sinou," which, in the language
of their country, signifies, How are you f or. How do
you do? The chief was a fine, stout old man,
apparently about sixty-five years of age, and very
active for a man of his years.

The natives of this country are very different,
both in form and appearance, as well as in cha-
racter, and possess more elasticity of temper than
natives near the west coast. They are also more
quick in their ideas, and have greater expression
in their features ; and are either very warm
friends, or determined and persevering enemies.
Their cranium differs considerably from that of the
Mahees, the frontal bone being square and high^
and altogether displaying greater powers of in-
tellect. Here I was treated with much more
kindness than I bad anticipated, though nearly the
whole of the natives were Mahomedans.

- After being invited into the interior of the
town, and seated in the court-yard of the palaver,
we were presented with a large calabash of clean
water, one of the chiefs principal men drinking
first. A bottle-calabash was then handed to us
full of wild honey, which is abundant here, and
we were supplied with wood to make a fire to

/

112 TRAVELS IN

cook our breakfast. My people were now in
tolerably good spirits, since we were so well re-
ceived, and had got, or rather stolen, plenty of
com for our consumption for the whole day. We
had also a very fine Guinea fowl as well as plenty
of yams. We soon got the steam up, and my man
speedily divested the fowl of its outer rigging by
dipping it into some scalding water, and in about
three-quarters of an hour we sat down to enjoy a
sumptuous breakfast ; after which, I expressed a
wish to go over the town, which, although not a
market-day, showed considerable bustle with only
the usual daily trade.

This town contains a considerable number of
workmen of different trades, all of whom seemed
employed, except such of them as were occupied
in reconnoitring the white stranger. The loom
and the anvil are both of very simple construction
here. The former is on the same principle as those
in the Mahee and Dahoman countries, and in fact
upon the same principle as our looms in England,
though showing less workmanship. Their thread,
though spun with the distaff, is very regular and
strong. Bridles and saddles are manufactured
here with considerable ingenuity ; the dyeing of
cloth and staining of leather are also well known
here.

The natives seem contented and are in the en-

. H

^"T^-W^^^^^^WI

WESTERN AFRICA. 113

joyment of plenty. But the extreme diiFerence in
the manners and habits as well as disposition of
the natives of different towns is scarcely credible,
though in the immediate vicinity of each other.
I believe this depends a great deal upon their
chiefs or rulers, whether they be tyrannical or
mild in the administration of their government.
Here I observed several beautiful crown-birds of
large size, walking about the town, quite domesti-
cated. They are certainly one of the most beau-
tiful of the feathered tribe I ever saw. The soil
here changed to a light sandy loam, resembling
that between Abomey and Canamina.

We returned to. the palaver-house, after our
stroll round the town, followed by nearly all the
natives, old and young. The caboceer, or chief,
seemed pleased to have an opportunity of grati-
fying his people by the sight of a white man.
At this town we obtained, to our satisfaction,
some few articles of consumption in exchange for
some of our own goods, namely, two fowls, some
shalots, and a quantity of ground beans. We
could not purchase a white fowl ; for some reason
unexplained they would only sell black ones. Now
that we were secure of a supply of provision for
this day and the following, we presented the chief
with some trifling presents, and then proceeded on
our journey rejoicing.

114 thayels in

We were conducted out of the town by the
chief and lus people, with nearly the same cere-
mony as wa$ observed when we entered. After we
had passed the outer gate we parted from our
friends, and proceeded onwards.

Nothing particular occurred worthy of observa-
tion, the country still bearing the same features
as last described, until, at twenty-one miles we
reached the large town of Quampanissa. This
being the market-day, we entered the public or
outer market without ceremony; but the atmo-
sphere bemg close and moist from the great heat
and evaporation, our march was fatiguing and op-
pressive, so that we were very glad to sit down,
while I sent my Fellattah messenger to acquaint
the chief, or gadadoo, as he is here called, with
our arrival. During this time we were sur-
rounded by nearly the whole of the people who
were attending market, and so closely were we
hemmed in that we were almost suffocated. In
fact, those in the front of the crowd were involun-
tarily thrust almost upon us, from the pressure of
those behind, in their anxiety to catch a sight of
me, being to them a great curiosity. My horse and
trappings seemed to create a great sensation.

In some large trees in this market-place was a
cranery, the birds in which were composed of
three different colours, and I believe of distinct

WESTERN AFRICA. 115

species, namely, white, blue, and brown, like the
sparrow-hawk. They are never allowed to be dis-
turbed or molested in any way, either in the cra-
nery or in its vicinity. In a short time the crowd
dispersed with as much precipitation as they had
collected, several people advancing with immense
thongs of bullocks' hides fastened to a handle,
like a hunting-whip, and laymg about them right
and left indiscriminately upon all who came in
their way. These, it appeared, were market-con-
stables, who are employed by the king, or gadadoo,
to preserve order, and protect property in the
market. These people are paid by a tax upon a
portion of every article of provision exposed. Upon
other articles a duty is charged in cowries. These
men were clearing a passage for their master to
advance.

The procession was nearly the same as that I
last described, with the exception of a stringed
musical instrument of a different construction
to any I had before observed. It is merely
a plain piece of board, about twenty inches long
and nine wide, with a piece of large bamboo cane
laid across near each end, which forms the bridge,
over which the strings, eight in number, pass.
These strings are tightened or slackened in the
same manner as our violin, but the instrument is

116 TRAVELS IN

slung from the shoulder, and is played guitar-
fashion. The sound of this instrument appeared
to me more musical than any native instrument I
had yet heard, though near the coast I have seen
instruments on a somewhat similar principle,
being merely a small block of wood hollowed out,
and a piece of hide with the hair shaven off covering
over the concave part. This, when dry, becomes
hard, and the strings are passed over two bridges,
one at each end ; but the sound of this instrument
is not equal to that I have just described.

The chief conducted us into the inner market,
where all was bustle and confusion. We marched
into the centre, where seats were provided for us,
although the chief and his people contented them-
selves with lying down during the palaver. We
informed him of our purpose in visiting his coun-
try, and of our wish to overtake Terrasso-weea,
for whom the chief professed great friendship.
Here we cooked some of our provision, and re-
mained to dine, the chief presenting us with some
native ale (peto), but much staler than any I had
before tasted. Probably this acidity was caused
by its being kept too long. The articles exposed
in this market w^ere much the same as those I
have previously mentioned, but the only native
manufacture I saw was cloth.

WESTERN AFRICA. 117

After remaining about an hour and a half we
again proceeded on our journey, and at thirty-one
miles approached the town of Bidassoa; but it
being late, and being uncertain how we might be
received, we went a few hundred yards out of
the path into a corn-plantation, and there en-
camped for the night. Here we kindled a fire,
and again I put my small camp-kettle into re-
quisition, and we had another feast, but not before
the whole had been upset, and we had been com-
pelled to go a considerable distance to procure
more water.

This mishap was caused by my horse, which
had always a particular propensity to paw the fire
abroad whenever he was within reach of it.
I had fastened it to my foot by its halter, but
being near the fire, it upset the kettle and scraped
the fire all abroad. We were now left to our
own meditations, which were far preferable to
being compelled to submit to the annoying cere-
mony always observed upon our entering a town.
My people seemed also to enjoy the comfort of
being alone. I had given each of my men a Jew's
harp of a large size, upon which they were desirous
of learning to play. It gave me much pleasure to
see them in such a contented mood ; I therefore
amused myself for a time in giving them lessons.

118 TRAVELS IN

till overcome with sleep. During the night we
were obliged to keep up a good fire lest any of
the wild beasts should feel inclined to make a
meal of any of us. However, I enjoyed a tolerably
good night's repose, till awoke by my horse nib-
bling at my feet. I then aroused my men, who
were still fast asleep, and our breakfast was soon
prepared. I had made up my mind to avoid the
town of Bidassoa, but upon consideration I
deemed it more prudent to call, lest any un-
pleasant suspicions might arise owing to our
seeming disrespect

On the morning of the 28 th July, we con-
sequently entered the town, without being de-
tained ; the chief was already aware of our pre-
sence in his neighbourhood, and had already pre-
pared himself to receive us. We were met at
the outer gates by himself and retinue, and with
nearly the same ceremony as was observed upon
entering the two last towns. We were re-
quested to follow him to the market, which is,
in most instances, the place of palaver. Here we
were supplied with water, and afterwards with
palm-wine, but I felt not a little surprised to find
the chief and his headmen all partake of the same,
for I had previously found the Mahomedans abstain
from everything of a spirituous nature as in-

WESTERN AFRICA. 119

toxicating. In answer to my remarks respecting
this difference, I was informed that this wine was
original, and the production of one single tree,
consequently was not rendered unclean by the
addition or compound of any other substance; but
they never partake of peto, though they do not
interfere with Pagans for using such drink,
neither do they interfere with the food of the
latter.

Here certain days are strictly observed by
not eating a black fowl ; on other days the same
is observed with respect to white fowls ; neither
will they eat anything which is killed previous
to their seeing it. Many are so strict indeed
that they will not eat anything unless killed
by their own hands. I received at this place ,
a present of a pair of turtle-doves, which are
here abundant early in the mornings, but as
soon as the sun becomes very powerful, they, as
well as other birds, all disappear, and conceal
themselves in the shade of the bushes and trees.

This town seems to supply many more than its
own inhabitants with com, their stores being con-
siderable. Their manner of storing it is by building
circular houses about ten feet high, in the bottom
of which a hole of about six inches square is left
to allow the grain to run out when wanted, which
is done by drawing a slide which covers the hole.

120 TRAVELS IN

The corn is poured in at the top, and is covered
by a portable roof of frame-work similar to an
umbrella, which is composed of palm and long
grass, like reeds. This covering is removed at will
to allow ventilation. These granaries are generally
about eight feet in diameter, and are composed of
clay or swish.*

Cloth of a good quality is m anufactured in this
town, and shea-butter is in abundance as at
all other places. The inhabitants were very
anxious to obtain a sight of a white man; but they
considered my colour an exaggeration or omis-
sion of Nature, similar to some instances of white
negroes whom I observed, though born of black
parents. They seemed much amazed when told
that all Europeans were white, like myself, but
that some had hair as black as their own.

Earthen pots and a sort of thin brick or tile are
made here for ornamenting certain parts of the
dwellings of the richest inhabitants, and a great
slave-market is also held, but not being market-
day I saw no slaves exposed. In the inner
markets, and even at the doors of the houses,
goods are exposed every day for sale. Tobacco,
which was quite common in the Mahee country, is
rarely seen here.

* Granaries of a similar constmction have been noticed in
the neighbourhood of Whydah.

- — -

WESTERN AFRICA, 121

After remainiDg about an hour and a half^ and
giving away some needles and thimbles, we in-
formed the chief that we wished to depart on our
journey. He pressed us to stop another day, but
I expressed my anxiety to proceed. He said he
was abready aware of my being in quest of Ter-
rasso-weea, who seemed to be a great favourite
in this place also. "We were then escorted to the
outer gates, where, after the priests had repeated
some part of the Koran as an intercession for our
success and safety on our journey, we marched
from Bidassoa, bearing N, 23** W,, and varying
during our day's journey to 45° and 10* W. The
land now became uneven and more rugged, with
blocks of rock of a nature resembling slate,
different to any thing I had before observed.

At four miles we reached a small kroom, where
I observed very fine cattle, the land rising gently
to the northwards, with shea-butter and palm-
trees, and a small river running to the south-west.
There was also abundance of very large buffaloes.
A small market is held daily at this kroom,
which is chiefly dependnet upon travellers, being
near the crossings of several paths leading to
different large market-towns. The principal
articles sold are kolla-nuts, with several sorts of
ground beans and nuts, calavansas, and manioc-

VOL. n. G

]22 TRAVELS m

root, as well as kankie, ready cooked. Palm-wine
is also sold here at a low rate to the natives.

There appeared to be but little manufacture in
this place, except a few trifling articles of iron,
and some wooden bowls, rudely carved and orna-
mented. We only halted here for a short time.
At seven miles we passed through thick wood
and swampy soil scarcely passable. Fruit-trees of
various sorts were now very abundant and in full
bearing, and very delicious and refreshing wild
grapes hung in clusters over our heads : these
were the green grape. The gwaba and yellow
fig also abounded, with many other fruits with
which I was unacquainted.

At ten miles we arrived at a kroom of about
four hundred inhabitants. Here we saw a large
number of horses of a small description. They
much resembled our Hampshire foresters in shape,
though a little finer breed. They were sold in this
market at the rate of four heads of cowries, equal to
four Spanish dollars on the west coast of Africa,
but are of much greater value in the interior.
Here we halted for an hour, and were tolerably
well received by the caboceer, or head man, who
seemed very ready to gratify our curiosity by
showing us round his village.

The breed of cattle here is extremely handsome.

WESTERN AFmCA. 123

and the sheep considerably larger than those in
the Kong Mountains. We were shown two very
large elephants^ which had been taken near the
swamp, where we were told they much abound,
though we did not observe any in crossing it.
I noticed a great number of female slaves,
many of whom were very handsome; they also
appeared remarkably cheerM and pleasant in their
manner. Nightcaps are knitted by the natives in
a sumlar manner to those in Great Britain. The
loom is also plied here, but not to a great extent.
Guinea fowls are very abundant, both in a wild
and tame state; partridges are also plentiful in
the neighbourhood. Here, as in nearly all other
towns in this country, the kolla-nut seems a
favourite article of commerce.

We fortunately procured some dried venison,
which is delicious in flavour when made into soup,
and seasoned with their different vegetables,
amongst which I may mention the chili as in-
variably their principal seasoning. We gave in
exchange for the venison treble its value. Their
method of drying is simple : it is cut into pieces,
dried before a large fire, and held occasionally in
the smoke of the iron-wood, which, from its
chemical properties, is considered preferable to any
other sort of wood. Salt is never used, either in

o2

124 TRAVELS IN

drying fish or venison. We were, as usual^ escorted
out of this kroom by the gadadoo, and again com-
menced our march.

The soil was again different, being of a moist
sandy clay, and very productive. Here I observed
several large sycamor.e-trees, as well as an ash,
which was more rough in the bark than that of
England. The beautiful acacia is invariably an
ornamental plant in the towns and villages. As
we passed I observed some very curious grasses,
different to any I had previously observed, as well
as heaths, and shrubs bearing fruits of various
forms and flavour, but all of a yellow colour. They
were very delicious and refreshing.

At twenty miles we arrived at the small town of
Kosow. This is a pleasant little town, fenced
in the usual way. Near the gates we observed
a number of females busily employed in thrash-
ing the Guinea corn on some flat rocks, by the
side of a small lake or pond, but upon our
approach they fled precipitately, and ran into the
town. We remained, as customary, at the outer
gate till the caboceer had been made aware of our
presence. During the time we remained here
several persons came within a few yards of us,
apparently to obtain a sight of us; but immediately
I turned my head to look at them, both males and

^mm

WESTERN AFRICA. 12$

females made a hasty retreat. The males were all
armed both with bow and spear.

In a short time the gadadoo made his appear-
ance on horseback. His little horse was richly
caparisoned; with a very curious pad or saddle^
covering nearly the whole of the horse's back.
The border of the shabrack was ornamented with
letters or characters, apparently of the Persian or
Arabic. Here we were received with great so-
lemnity, although the venerable chief never suf-
fered a smile to appear on his countenance until
the ceremony was over. We were then led, as
usual, into the palaver place, where we were sup-
plied with seats carved out of the solid wood. Here
we were strictly interrogated respecting our busi-
ness in that country, to which I replied as I had
to others. As usual, my assumed knowledge of
Terrasso- weea seemed to give tolerable satisfaction ;
but a proposition was made that I should remain
at Kosow until a messenger should be forwarded
to Terrasso-weea, with a desire that he should meet
me at Kosow. This proposal, however, I strongly
objected to as likely to give offence.

My opposition to his proposal did not altogether
seem to meet the chief's approval. He next pre-
tended to doubt whether we ought to be allowed
to pass through the country without the great

126 TRAVELS IN

king of the country being ma^e aware of our inten-
tions. Again, however, the old man failed in his
object, for my Fellattah soldier informed him that
the great king of his country had already been
made aware of our presence, and had also sanc-
tioned our march through his dominions.

Being thus frustrated at all points, the old man
demanded what white man was going to dash him,
or what present he was going to make him. In
return, I asked him what he intended to give me
as a stranger visiting his country. He answered,
that no white man had ever been in that country
before, and it was very probable that no other
might ever come again, and he should like to have
something to hand down to his descendants as a
memorial of a white man having once been there.
Gain seemed his only object, and his wish to for-
ward a messenger to Terrasso-weea was merely to
detain me in order to have a chance of obtaining
presents. I gave him some new gilt buttons, and
a large Jew's harp, as well as some needles, and two
thimbles. I played several tunes upon the Jew's
harp, with which he seemed much delighted.

He then introduced me to his harem, which was
composed of about one hundred and twenty females
of considerable beauty, being much fairer than
any I had seen since leaving Abomey. Their

'-^

WESTERN AFRICA. 127

features and figures were very good, though their
hair was woolly, but much longer than I had
before seen of the woolly tribes. These women
were all enclosed within a wall of about three feet
and a half high. Some of them seemed gratified,
while others seemed quite the reverse; but the
chief's females were not the only fair women in
the place. The generality of the inhabitants
were equally as fair. I was oflfered my choice
of one for forty-two thousand cowries ; but I
informed the seller that I was not at present in
waint of any slaves, or a wife. This surprised
him very much, for he declared that he himself
could not live with less than twenty wives, but
that he had a very great many more. He picked
out his principal or favourite wife, to whom he
introduced me, doubtless with a view of obtaining
some presents for her; but I could not under-
stand the hint, as I found my little stock fast
decreasing.

After eating some of our dried venison with
some roasted plantains, we resumed our journey ;
and at twenty-five miles, arrived at the river
Ofo, but unfortunately we found no canoe, or
anything to convert into a raft, to cross it. We
were consequently obliged to make preparations
for swimming across. One of my people carried

128 TRAVELS IN

a change of linen^ and two pair of light trowsers^
and some other articles of hardware^ as presents,
in a small carpet-bag. This we tied with the saddle
to the horse's back. My little horse was an ex-
cellent companion in the water, for, by holding
the fastening rope of his headstall, he pulled me
across with a rapidity scarcely credible.

I had an American life-preserver, but that had
already nearly drowned me by bursting. I never,
therefore, trusted to its buoyancy again. We
crossed the river in safety, but of course all our
clothes were wet. My bag on the horse's back
was quite wet upon the horse's first plunge into
the water. The two soldiers also got their muskets
wet, but saved their powder, by placing it on their
havresacks, and tying them on their head. My
ammunition was also preserved dry in consequence
of keeping it in a water-tight case.

Immediately after we had crossed the river,
two men from Kosow made their appearance.
The caboceer had made no mention of this river,
and he undoubtedly expected, by sending men
after us, to ferry us across at an enormous charge.
It appeared that the caboceer of Kosow keeps a
canoe for the purpose of ferrying people across
the river, but it is placed at a small kroom, about
half a mile higher up the river. Travellers with

iUI

, WESTERN AFRICA. • 12

heavy loads cannot cross this river without em-
ploying the canoe. The men seemed much disap^
pointed when they found that we had already
crossed* The river Ofo is here thirty-five yards
wide, and twenty feet deep, with a sandy bottom.
The current is three miles and a half per hour, and
runs in a south-east direction.

To ascertain the depth of rivers, I had pre-
pared a lead with a bullet, boring a hole through
it ; through this I passed a small line of twine,
leaving the lower side of the bullet countersunk ;
into this a piece of goat's tallow is pressed. The
twine is then passed through a very thin piece of
wood about five inches square. If the river is very
wide, and the crossing made by canoe, the line of
course may be dropped over board as on board
ship, but if you are obliged to swim, the ball and
wood may be dropped on the water. The bullet
of course sinks to the bottom, and draws the twine
through the hole in the wood at the same time,
till it reaches the bottom; the line being marked into
feet, the depth is accurately ascertained. If a river
is not more than forty yards wide, it may also be
measured in the same way, by throwing the wood
and ball into the midde of the river ; taking care
to coil the line carefully up previously to throw-
ing it.

g3

130 • TRAVELS IN

The banks of the river Ofo are low, not being
more than three feet above the surface of
the water. We remained on the bank of this
river till we dried our clothes. Here we also
cooked some provisions, and cleaned our guns.
We then again resumed our journey; and, at
twenty-eight miles, arrived at the large town of
Kasso-Kano. This town is well built, and the
houses well thatched. There are three market-
idays in the week here : this happened to be one
of them, and though the afternoon was far ad-
vanced, the dealers were busily employed. Slaves
were abundant, and many parents were publicly
offering their children for sale, numbers of them
not more than eleven or twelve years of age. They
showed their slaves off, and purchasers scrutinized
them with as much care as our horse-dealers at an
English fair.

Here the women are modest and handsome, the
men generally tall, thin, and sinewy. They are
apparently very jealous of their women, and natu-
rally covetous and suspicious, and moreover great
thieves. The chief is a shrewd, cunning fellow,
and, like all others in the same office, seems to
monopolize in a great measure the greater portion
of the trade in all articles of consumption.

The hills in this neighbourhood abound with

WESTERN AFRICA. 131

iron^ and another mineral substance resembling
coal, but this mineral is not so abundant ; it is pro-
bably antimony. I have forgotten its name. It was
brought on board in small pieces (the largest not
more than half an inch square) during the late
Niger expedition, but it was extremely dear* It is
used as and considered an infallible cure for inflam-
mation in the eye, by merely rubbing it round it.
Here I had an opportunity of observing their
system of smelting ore. The furnace is composed
of finely-worked clay, nearly as hard as Boman
cement. The dye-vats are composed of the same
substance ; the furnace is built of a circular form,
and of about five or six feet diameter, and about
eight feet high. From the top to the middle the
furnace tapers inwards to the centre in the form
of a funnel ; it again widens from the middle to
the bottom. At the bottom are fixed two pair of
bellows, which are covered nearly over with earth,
and kept constantly wet. The bellows are formed
by cutting two large round holes in a large block
of wood of the cotton-tree. The handles of the
bellows are about a yard long, and about the
thickness of the barrel of a musket. These are
fixed into the centre of a circular piece of leather
or hide at one end* This piece of hide is suffi-
ciently large to cover the hole in the block of wood ;

132 TRAVELS m

it is put over this hole^ and nailed round the edges.
Besides the apertures there are two smaller
holes, bored through the sides of the block to
communicate with the large hole forming the
body of the bellows. Over the mouth of the
small hole, where it communicates with the body
of the bellows, is a stopper or valve, which shuts
close on the hole when the handle is pressed
down. The two leather covers, being very loose,
are raised up and down alternately, upon the same
principle as the bellows used in England.

The man who blows takes the handles (which
are perpendicular,) in each hand, and raises one
hand up, and at the same time presses the other
down, so that with the two bellows a constant
blast is kept up. The pipe is frequently made of
a sort of clay, similar to that used in coarse
earthenware ; but when such things can be pro-
cured, old gun-barrels, which have burst on the
coast, not unfrequently find their way into the in-
terior, and are sold at a very high price for this pur-
pose. Guns in good condition are never suffered
to pass into the interior, if the chiefs on or near the
coast can prevent it.

But to describe the furnace : iron-wood charcoal,
wheil it can be procured, is used for fuel. The
furnace is then filled with a layer of charcoal and

mm^^^mt III « I iii^wi I «ii«iiNiniii>^B«Hiiv

WESTERN AFRICA. 133

iron alternately, and then the fire is lighted at
the bottom, and the blowing commences. Two
and sometimes three hours elapse before a melt-
ing heat can be produced. The melting of the
ore of course commences nearest the blower, and
the fused metal falls into the bottom of the furnace,
when some more ore supplies the place of that which
is already melted. When the whole is melted, a
stopper is drawn to let the liquid iron run into
long narrow moulds, which have again to be
melted previously to becoming fit for the ham^
mer. This was the most efficient Aimace I had
yet seen, and the iron seemed remarkably tough
and pliable. They seem ignorant of the method
of hardening it, though swords and spear-heads,
as well as arrow-heads, are manufactured in Kasso-
kano.

The natives made several attempts to steal my
camp-kettle, but my interpreter told them, as I
clapped my hand to my sword, that I never hesitated
to chop off an arm or a head, if I caught any one
stealing my property. They told him he must not
talk of cutting arms or heads off where we were
only intruding strangers; but my hiterpreter assured
them, that if their numbers were ten times more
than they were, a white man cared not. If any
nian does him wrong, he kills him by some evil

134 TBATBLS

art, if not hj the siroid. Ahhftngfa this aaaeition
was of oouiBe ridiciiloiis, it appealed to have the
denied efiect.

After the gadadoo had finiahed his busmeas, he
again joined na, as we were lying down under
a huge tree, in the market-place. He offered ns
a hut dnrii^ the remaining part of the night,
bat we found it so filthy, as to be uninhabit-
able, being merely a shed where the shives had
been kept for sale during the day. Both myself
and men felt much annoyed at thie^ and we deter-
mined to leave the town, and encamp somewhere
in the bush. We gave the gadadoo some small
presents, but he seemed to have expected much
more. I peremptorily refused to extend my
gifts, and took my departure very abruptly, to
proceed on my journey, never intimating any
thing of my intention of encamping near the
town.

We passed out of the town at the northern
having entered at the southern gate, the path
bearing N. 30'' W., and at two miles from the
town we turned some distance out of the path,
where we found some rocks, and behind these we
encamped for the night, but did not kindle a fire,
lest we might be observed. Early in the morning
I aroused my poor fellows, who were evidently

BnnF<'"9RSH>F

l^ESTERN AFRICA. 135

beginning to show symptoms of having been over-
marched ; and^ though I rode a great part of the
distance, I foimd the wound in my leg getting
every day larger. Still I determined to pursue my
journey, and though my poor companions had
several times hinted that the safest course was to
turn back, I remembered the old adage, recom-
mended by Captain Beaufort of the Admiralty,
never to put my hand to the plough and look
backward. I felt much for my men, but I dared
not say any thing, lest they should take a resolu-
tion not to proceed.

136 TRAVELS m

CHAPTER VI.

Peculiar Breed of Dog»— The Town of Zabakano— Market Day-
Native Manufactures — Domestic Slaves— Palm Oil — Joleeba,
or Niger — Horses make part of the Family — Pelican Nest —
Pigeons — Kindness of the Gadadoo — Pigeon Shooting—
Palaver with the Gadadoo — Population — Mounted Soldiers
— ^Charaeter of the Scenery — ^Grooba— Manufactures — The
Town of Sagbo — Drilling System general here — Two sorts
of Rice — Received by the Gadadoo with great Pomp — Palaver
— Dromedary and Elephant — Prevalent Diseases — The
Town of Jakee — ^Reception — Ancient Custom — Breakfast of
the Natives — Manufactures — Terror of the Natives — Chaly-
beate Springs — The River Jenoo — ^The Land Tortoise — In-
teresting Panorama — The Town of Kallakandi — Reception by
the Sheik — Palaver— Band of Musicians— Peculiar Instru-
ments — Manufactures, &c. — ^Slave Market — Horses — Laws —
Cruel Punishment — Population — Attack on a Boa-Constrictor
— Manu£ebctures — ^Deer — Method of Preserving Meat and Fish
— Trap for Wild Animals— Town of Ongo — Reception by the
Caboceer — Interesting Aspect of the Country.

July 29th. — ^We kindled a fire, and made break-
fast, and at sunrise we again commenced our
journey from the neighbourhood of Kassokano.
The country was much of the same character
as that we had recently passed. Here I observed
a particular species of dogs, much coarser than
those in the Kong Mountains, where the breed
is very much like the British greyhound, though

m*ip

WESTERN AFRICA. 137

not SO large. After passing over several small
streams of good water, of which we had each
a hearty draught, we, at seven miles, arrived
at the large town of Zabakano. Here the King
met me, and escorted me with two hundred horse-
men. He was well acquainted, it appeared, with
the priest Terrasso-weea.

This town is beautifully situated, commanding
aview of the surrounding country to a great dis-
tance. The people seem cheerful and contented.
This was one of the principal market-days, conse-
quently I had an opportunity of observing the sup-
plies of the different articles of trade and con-
sumption. It was well supplied with native pro-
duce, and a greater quantity of rice was exposed
than in any other market I have visited in Africa.
Here, also, I was shown a large quantity of armlets
and bracelets, manufactured with considerable taste
and skill in Bomou^ and brought thither by Ter-
rasso-weea's trading party. Tanning and dyeing
are also executed skilfully; and sandals and a
peculiar sort of slippers are here manufactured,
similar to those we found in Tangiers.

The chief possesses a great number of domestic
slaves, but sells none of them. They are chiefly
employed in trading with the surrounding towns
and in tilling the soil, which is in a high state of

/

138 TRAVELS IN

cultivation, to a considerable distance round.
Palm-oil is manufactured here^ and is actually
transported, by the tributary navigable streams,
to the Niger, or Joleeba, the name by which it
is here known. Here it is not known either
by the name of Quarra or Niger, but this circum-
stance is not at all surprisiug, for I find that all
the rivers have different names in the various
countries through which they flow. I have also,
in many instances, found two places with the same
name, at no very great distance from each other ;
but, in fact, the same may be observed in our
own country. Native iron and nitre were abun-
dant in this market.

Horses here invariably make part of the family,
being fastened to a peg driven into the ground
or floor, by the hind foot, having only about a foot
of rope. The children are often seen playing be-
tween the legs of the animal, with which it seems
much pleased, often nibbling at their heads with
its lips, or licking their faces, as a spaniel would.

The chief seemed very anxious to acquaint us
with every thing which might tend to our
gratification; and, though he was the principal
trader himself, he accompanied us through every
part of the town. Close to the town is a lake,
supplied partly by a small stream, and partly by

WESTERN AFRICA. 189

the heavy rains during the season. On this lake
were a number of large trees, upon which were
the nests of the pelican, a great number of which
we saw roosting on the branches. I had never
seen the nest of the pelican on a tree since I was
in Egga, a town on the banks of the Niger,
when I was there with the late unfortunate expe-
dition under Captain Trotter. I then shot several
on the trees ; but here, at Zabakano, the inhabi-
tants had an objection to mj killing any of them ;
I could not therefore secure a specimen. Pigeons
were very numerous here, both the wood-pigeon
and the turtle-dove. The chief did not object to
my shooting these, so I soon secured sufficient
for my party for this and the following day. We
were obliged to cook them immediately.

We were, however, very kindly treated by the
chief or gadadoo, who strongly urged us to re-
main a day with him. This kind treatment seemed
to inspire my poor fellows with fresh courage
and animation ; in fact, it seemed to act as a fresh
stimulus to all of us. The natives were quite de-
lighted with the sport of pigeon-shooting, for one
or two of them were acquainted with such guns
as had found their way to this town, and several
others in the neighbourhood, but of the locks they
had no idea ; for guns are not allowed to be
brought here by way of trade in a perfect state.

140 TRAVELS IN

and even were they, still without powder they
would be useless.

The chief has a very large number of wives,
but the principal portion of them are merely em-
ployed as his domestic slaves, as indeed are all
the wives of the uncivilized Africans. The
civilized portion is very limited, even on the coast.
The gadadoo made me a very liberal offer for my
carbine, but I told him that it would not be of so
much service to him as his bow or sabre, unless
he had a supply of ammunition ; that as I had
visited his country partly with a view to ascertain
what articles would be most likely to suit their
markets, I should, as soon as possible, return with
a large stock of suitable merchandise. A story
like this was much more likely to be believed
amongst savages than any other excuse I could
make for visiting their country. If told that
my object was merely for scientific purposes,
they would not have understood me, and would
have been more likely to look upon me with
suspicion, as they cannot believe any body can
take interest about any thing not of a pecuniary
nature.

This town contains about nine thousand inhabi-
tants ; it is clean and open, but I was informed
that after the conclusion of the rainy season fever
and small-pox are very prevalent. Small-pox is

WESTERN AFRICA. 141

much dreaded by the natives, and seems to be the
principal disease here, I have not observed one
case of elephantiasis since leaving Accra, although
at Whydah a disease of a similar nature is pre*
valent, affecting the head, and not unfrequently
enlarging the forehead and eyebrows so much as
totally to obscure vision. This distortion of
nature, as may be supposed, has an extremely
repulsive appearance.

After remaining about an hour and a half, I
gave the gadadoo some small presents, which he
received with apparent satisfaction. He and his
head men, as well as his two hundred mounted
soldiers, then conveyed me some distance from the
town, going through their manoeuvres of attack
at the same time. This was merely a wild rush
without any order or discipline, and so far from
their being (as has been represented) a formidable
force, ten well-mounted and well-disciplined hors^
men would easily annihilate the whole party.

Here we parted from the most generous and
affable chief we had met with since leaving the
Mountains of Kong. During this day's journey,
our bearing changed from N. 45** W. to 12"*
. 10% 35% 43% and due West (true). The country
now became very pleasant, and the path not
so rough under foot. Around us in different

142 TRAVELS IN

directions were numerous hills, giving a relief to
the dull sameness of a flat, dreary plain. We
crossed several small clear streams, some of which
had worn their channels nine or ten feet deep.

At fourteen miles we arrived at the small town
of Grooba. Here the old chief, or head man,
received us very kindly; doubtless, he had re^
ceived a message which prompted this friendly
reception. This town is clean and neat for an
African town. The only manufacture of note
here is cotton tobes, but different in pattern
to the cloths manufactured in the Kong Moun-
tains, which are invariably striped with various
colours ; but here the cloth is all either blue or
white, similar to the tobes worn by the Mandingo
traders who visit Sierra Leone. Here the black-
smith plies his trade, but only for the accommo-
dation of the inhabitants of the town. A sort
of cloth is also manufactured from the inner bark
of a certain tree, which is very strong and
durable, and of various colours. This when
woven into cloth has a very rich appearance;
long sashes or girdles of the same material are
worn by most of the influential persons.

At seventeen miles we halted by a small stream
and kindled a fire, where we cooked some of our '
pigeons, and had an excellent dinner. We after-

WESTERN AFRICA. 143

wards resumed our journey, and at twenty-eight
miles arrived at the town of Sagbo. Around this
town the country is well cultivated, and the drill-
ing system seemed generally adopted. This is^
doubtless, an advantage during the rainy season.
Four different sorts of maize are cultivated here,
as well as two sorts of rice, white and red.
Here they have a better mode of cleaning and
preparing the rice for use than any other place
I have yet visited. The kolla-nut is abundant,
as also the palm and shea-butter nut. Indigo is
cultivated, and rudely manufactured in nearly
all the towns we passed since leaving the Mahee
country.

The chief and his head men and bowmen re-
ceived us in a similar manner as at other places,
with great pomp and solemnity, his priests
taking the lead in conducting us into the market-
place, advancing at a slow pace and repeating
some select portion from the Koran. This cere-
mony, upon the whole, reminded me of a funeral
procession in England. After we reached the
palaver place in the market, we were invited
to sit down, and water was handed to us.
Nothing qlse, however, of a liquid nature was
offered us. We were, as usual, interrogated as
to our purpose in visiting the country. These

144 TRAVELS IN

questions I answered to the same effect as I
had previously done. My reply seemed to ^ve
general satisfaction. The chief was surrounded by
bowmen and spearmen, many of whom were very
fine-looking men. During this time, the chief, or
sheik, as he is here called, amused himself by
playing with his beard, rather an uncommon orna-
ment amongst these people, and highly esteemed.
We were presented with two fowls by one of
the head men, to whom in return I gave two papers
of needles.

This town is well supplied with good water,
and the cattle, both sheep and oxen, are very
handsome; the horses are small^ but well bred.
The dromedary and elephant are here to be met
with tame. The sugar-cane is also cultivated, and
very large, but not manufactured. The liquor
after boiling the cane is used mixed with the
meal of the Indian corn, instead of, or rather as
we use tea or coffee ; sometimes a little ginger,
which grows here spontaneously, is added to it.
This is a very wholesome and palatable beverage.

Here the small-pox had made dreadful havoc
amongst the inhabitants, and was still destroying
numbers daily. The sheik or chief took great'
interest in my recommendation to inoculate from
the cow-pox, and several times put the question to

)bBP

WESTERN AFRICA. 145

me, whether I could not myself perform the
operation, and instruct his doctors, of whom he
has a great number. I excused myself for want of
n\aterial, or matter. The inhabitants vary very
much in colour, which proves the undoubted
mixture of the tribes from distant countries. The
greater part of the inhabitants of Sagbo are very
dark, tall, and well formed. The general develop-
ment of their cranium is good; they are very
keen traders, cheerful and affable, and nearly all
Mahomedans.

I was, as usual, obliged to draw on my little
stock, which was now fast diminishing, and to give
a few needles and a thimble, as well as a Jew's
harp, to the chief, who deemed the Jew's harp a
wonderful piece of consecrated iron. We then
recommenced our journey, the country bearing the
same very pleasant aspect, and with trees a little
larger than I had met with during my last four
days' journey.

After a rather tiresome march, we arrived, at
thirty-eight miles, at the town of Jakee. The
chief of this town is subject to the chief of Sagbo,
who directs or governs six large towns in his own
locality. It appeared that a private messenger
had been despatched from Sagbo to inform the
chief of this town of my coming. The same

VOL. II. H

146 TRAVELS IK

messenger was with the chief of Jakee when he met
me half a mile from the town. The old man received
me with marked courtesy, and without much
ceremony we were conducted into his courtyard.

As it was getting late, and we had expressed
our intention of remaining all night, the chief
readily showed us an apartment or hut, in his own
court-yard, where we were to repose for the night;
and upon our informing him of our long journey,
he seemed to sympathize with us, and in a great
measure dispensed with the usual palaver, but
joined us in our quarters, where he seemed de-
lighted to receive information respecting white
man's country, and also of the country we had
passed .through. He expressed his great surprise
that aman should venture so far from his home
and relations, and run the risk of casualties in
so many strange lands. This man had by some
means heard of the unfortunate Niger expedition,
probably from Terrasso-weea, with whom he has
been long acquainted. He took great interest in
the trade of his own town, and expressed a great
desire to know by what means he might increase
it. We were rather annoyed during the early
part of the evening by numerous curious visitors
who came to have a peep at us, and some watch-
fulness was required, though we had little to be

WB8TERN AFRICA. 147

robbed of; however, it was the more necessary
to preserve the little we had got

30th July. — ^Early in the morning we were
aroused by the ringing of a number of bells or
gong-gongs, which, in accordance with an ancient
custom, are rung round the town every morning
at day-break to apprise the inhabitants that it is
time to get up. These gong-gongs are used also
to give the alarm in case of any sudden attack
•upon the town. As soon as this procession had
passed, the chief paid us a visit, and inquired
Tery kindly after our health. We were supplied
with a quantity of the juice of the sugar-cane, and
«ome meal mixed with it, about the consistence
of gruel. Upon this we made a hearty breakfast,
with the addition of some round balls, about the
size of a potato, made from an under-ground
bean, which is very abundant in this country.
This bean is ground into meal and made into
round balls. It is then fried in an earthen pot
with palm-oil, and used for food. It is of a toler--
ably good flavour.

After distributing some needles and Jew's
harps, we recommenced our journey. During this
day our bearing varied from N. 25° W. to 12°,
35% 40% and 22° N. towards W. At six miles
we arrived at a small market on the path for

H 2

148 TRAVELS IN

the sale of provisions to travellers. Here they
also sold water, which is at all times a bad omen
for travellers, as showing its scarcity. We secured
a calabash filled with water for a paper of needles,
which seemed to take well in this part of the
country. We were, however, happily mistaken
in our fears respecting water in this instance, for,
at ten miles, we arrived at a small village called
Kiroaso, where we found plenty of good water.
This kroom is famous for its tan-pits and dye-
vats: the inhabitants of several towns at a dis-
tance visit this place for the purpose of dyeing
their cloths and thread. Besides the indigo, they
have a yellow and red colour which they manu-
facture, with which they dye both leather and
cloth. Here the natives carve quantities of
wooden bowls out of the cotton-tree with con-
siderable taste. They seemed much alarmed at
our presence, many of them running away upon
our approach. As soon, however, as they learned
that we were friends, they returned and would
soon have become too familiar. We remained
here only a short time, and then resumed our
journey; and, at nineteen miles, arrived at the
Kabra Mountains, along the sides of which we
travelled, passing several small krooms or towns
at their base, some of which we entered.

wi^ama^^!^asamai^^:pw^pm:^ifswmiemmmfm^'^r^'^f^^fm^^tW^sigaeKmssiK==\M ■ ai,, j ^ , ■■■■■_'^*r %.- ^

WESTERN AFRICA. 149

' We found here several chalybeate springs,
strongly impregnated with carbonate of iron of a
deep orange colour. At twenty-five miles we ar-
rived at the river Jenoo. This river is navigable
by large canoes at all seasons of the year. It
runs to the eastward^ and is fordable at this
season by persons on foot, not exceeding three
feet and a half deep, with sandy bottom, and not
more than twelve yards wide, with a current not
exceeding two miles per hour. Fish, however,
are not very abundant, as the natives are unac-
quainted with the method of catching them; I
observed, therefore, very few for sale. It is
rather singular that the conchology of aU the
inland rivers in this part of Africa is very limited,
a sort of mussel being the only shell which I ob-
served.

Of the crustaceous tribes a sort of shrimp or
prawn is the only thing I noticed. The land-
tortoise, however, is abundant on the banks of
rivers, and is used by the natives for food.
Having halted a short time after crossing the
river, we again resumed our journey, passing
amongst some beautiful shrubs and sweet-scented
climbing plants^ whose blossoms spread a sweet
odour for a considerable distance. We marched
some miles through this interesting panorama

150 TBAVELS m

before we again reached the open plun« Here the
soil again assamed a lighter colour, of a gravelly
nature, and studded with trees of yarious kinds.
The soil and small brooks still proved the presence
of iron.

At thirty-four miles we arrived at the town of
Kallakandi. Here we were tolerably well re-
ceived by the sheik, or gadadoo, who seems in-
trusted with the government of a certain district
of considerable extent. It appeared that he had
only obtained intelligence of our approach a little
while previous to our arrival, and was therefore
flurried, and a little cautious and reserved
in receiving us ; but being acquainted with our
object of overtaking Terrasso-weea, he became at
once familiar, and informed us that he had occu-
pied, with all his retinue, the very quarters as-
signed to me for the night.

We entered into conversation or palaver, which
continued until dark. He seemed very intelli-
gent, and had by his own account been at Tim-
buctoo, and gave exactly the same account of
the place as the Mahomedan priest at Abomey,
who stated he had accompanied Terrasso-weea
thither. The sheik very kindly sent us two
ducks of the Muscovy breed to cook for our
supper, as also two yams and some com, with

■Q^B^n

WESTERN AFRICA. 151

plenty of good water. He again joined us after
supper, seeming eager to obtain information.
A.t length he proposed to retire, which was
very agreeable to us, for we were very tired.
He promised to call us early in the morning, to
w^hich arrangement he was very punctual, for cer-
tainly he aroused us some time sooner than we
wished. This being market-morning, the town
was all bustle.

Soon after we had been aroused by the gadadoo,
we were visited by a band of singing women,
who were accompanied by musicians, with instru-
ments very similar to our German flute, made
from the hollow cane and bottle-shaped gourds,
with the pulpy part taken out and dried, with,
hundreds of human teeth strung together like
beads, and loosely fastened like net-work over
the gourd, which were shaken in the hand, keeping
time to the other instruments used in the native
bands of music : a similar instrument is used in
Dahomey. Prostration on addressing a superior
is common here, though they do not rub them-
selves with dust as in Dahomey or the Mahee
country. I took a short ramble round the town
and market-places, both the outer and inner.

Here I had an opportunity of observing the
articles of commerce exposed for sale, which.

152 TRAVELS IN

however, differed very little from those I have
abready mentioned in other places. Smiths' work
is done here in a superior manner to most other
towns I have visited. Axes and bill-hooks are
made here ; the axe is made to fit into the handle,
instead of the handle into the axe, the crown or
pole of the axe being made like a spike, and
driven into a hole passed through the end of the
handle. They are also excellent farmers. The
weavers also display considerable taste in the
manufacture of a peculiar sort of cloth I have
not observed elsewhere but in Abomey.

Slaves were exposed in the outer market in
great numbers, and early in the morning con-
siderable numbers had changed owners. Sheep,
goats, and oxen, are numerous, and very hand*
some. Horses are handsome also, but small, few
exceeding thirteen hands high. Pigeons are nu-
merous in this town, and are of various kinds.
The vulture is common in all the towns in this
country. The government may be said to be
quite despotic, for though a certain power is pre-
tended to be vested in the chief malaam, or
minister, still every objection is overruled in
acquiescence with the will of the sovereign.

Offenders against the laws are punished accord-
ing to the estimated enormity of their crimes,

'.-■-■ *** ■■ . ■■ . « — ■ JP« ^1 I ■ .^^

WESTERN AFRICA. 153

by flagellation or Imprisonment in irons, and
labour in the fields ; but all serious offences, such
as those against the king, murder, and adultery
with the wives of superiors, are punished by
death and torture of the most barbarous de-
scription. Sometimes a pole, about six feet long, is
prepared, with an iron hose fixed on the end of
it; the iron being tapered to a long spike. This
spike is made red-hot, and the culprit, being
suddenly seized, is placed on his head with his
legs or feet upwards. The spike, while red-hot, is
passed into the lower part of his person and the
bowels, and even to the crown of his head.* This
mode of torture is only resorted to in cases of
adultery with the king's or malaam's wives. Some-
times another mode of torture for similar offences
is resorted to, equally barbarous and cruel — that
of mutilation, and placing it in the mouth of the
offender.

After promising to make a longer stay on my
return, I marched from Kallakandi, this being the
31st of July, bearing N. 22° westward; during the
day's journey varying from 22" to 5% 10", 5% and
12" degrees to westward. The country near
the town was well cultivated. At seven miles we

^ This cruel punishment is also common at Lagos.

h3

154 TRAVELS IN

crossed a narrow rirer ranning eastward ; and at
twelve miles arrived at the town of Gooba. This
is also a great market for the sale and purchase of
slaves. Here salt is sold^ but at a very high price,
though of a very coarse and dirty description*

The town is governed by a malaam, named Dibo
or Dibbo. He, however, is imder the directions
of the gadadoo of Kallakandi. The inhabitants of
this town are about seven thousand in number,
and seem a mixture of many tribes, which is easily
detected by the cranium, independent of the par-
ticular marks or scars on the face to distinguish
each tribe from the other. They seem to live in
ease and plenty, having little trouble in cultivating
the soil, which here produces four crops in the year
of several sorts of grain.

We remained here only a short time, when, after
making a present of a pair of small scissors for
some water, with which we were presented, we
resumed our journey. At fourteen miles, while
crossing a swamp of no great magnitude, we were
met by a number of women, heavily laden with dif-
ferent articles of produce for the market which we
had just left. They were accompanied by several
men, who walked in the rear. The women we
found had been much alarmed a minute before,
but seemed still more so at meeting me, some of

WESTERN AFRICA. ' 155^

the younger women endeayouring to pass into the
thick impenetrable hush, which extended about
half a mile along each side of the path. The men
also seemed much alarmed, and the older of them,
who were armed with bows and arrows, prepared
themselves for an attack. However, they pre-
ferred submission, prostrating themselves as we
passed. I requested them to rise, and after asking
them how they were, they informed us of the ex-
treme danger of passing any farther, till an enor-
mous snake which they had just met should retire.
They stated that this reptile had taken up his posi-
tion in a large tamarind-tree, whence they said he
had been in all probability compelled to retreat
after a combat with a panther, which they said
invariably practised one particular mode of attack.
Whenever they come unexpectedly upon one of
these reptiles, they pounce upon its tail, and thus
prevent it from coiling itself round its prey*
Then with its claw it secures the head, which is
immediately brought round to release its tail.
However, I never witnessed an attack of this
sort, and must leave my readers to judge of the
truth of this assertion. One of the party offered
to go back and show us the enormous snake,
and several others of the party volunteered their
services also.

156 TRAVELS IN

Accordingly we proceeded about six hundred
yardfl^ when we arrived at the velvet tamarind-
tree^ which they had spoken of, and which was
thickly covered with leaves ; but upon examining
the tree we could not observe anything of the
nature described. When I was just upon the
point of accusing them of hoaxing us, one of them,,
who stood a little behind my horse, suddenly
called out *Svaroo-waroo,^ upon which one of
my soldiers seized my bridle to pull my horse
aside, and to my amazement the monster was
pointed out to me with part of its body coiled
round a bough, and its head and a considerable
part of its body hanging down very near our
heads.

It appeared this reptile had descended the tama-
rind, and had ascended a much larger tree of a
different description. I immediately dismounted,
and unstrapped my double-barrelled carbine,
which was heavily charged, one barrel with swan-
shot, and the other with smaller shot. The snake
was certainly of enormous dimensions, and re-
mained quite motionless. I took a steady aim at
the neck, just behind its head, and fired the
charge of slugs effectually, though for some time
it seemed to have but a slight effect upon it, for
it raised its head, and coiled the fore-part of the

WESTERN AFRICA, 157

body round another branch of the tree ; but the
spine being injured, it soon appeared to lose
strength, and the tail, which was coiled round a
limb, began to relax. It again uncoiled its fore-
part, which hung down towards the ground. I
then took mj sword, which I had sharpened equal
to a razor, and cut the head off at one stroke ; but
even then the people would not venture to touch
it with their hands to pull it down, till I 'gave
them a piece of small cord, which I invariably
canned in my pocket. This was fastened round
the body, and they then succeeded in pulling it
down.

The monster was of the boa tribe, and measured
thirty-one feet long, but the natives told me they
had seen them much larger. My gun and sword
excited great astonishment amongst the strangers,
who were very anxious again to hear the noise.
They seemed to fancy that it was the noise which
killed the object the muzzle of the gun was
directed towards ; this I did not contradict. Here
we were detained nearly an hour, when we again
commenced our march, I and my people keeping a
cautious look-out lest some more of our late
antagonist's companions might be in our imme-
diate neighbourhood.

We were soon clear of the bush, and our

158 TRAVELfi m

adveuture speedily forgotten. At sixteen miles
we arrived at a small kroom^ the houses of which
were all built of a circular form, the walls
covered with a deep red claj, and many of the
principal houses ornamented with different figures
and hieroglyphics. The chief manufacture in this
kroom is earthen pots of a superior description
and jet-black polish. Pipes, or rather pipe-heads^
are also manufactured here, though little tobacco
reaches this place ; but I learned that these pipes
are sent even to Badagry. Their form is like the
meerschaum. The natives also manufacture a very
ingenious sort of lamp, in which palm-oil is used.

The chief of this kroom had in his possession a
pot which attracted my notice. It was of copper,
and evidently of Spanish manufacture. It had
been in the possession of his family, it appeared, for
many years, but he could not inform me from
whom they had obtained it. There exists in this
neighbourhood a species of small black deer, not
larger than a small English terrier, some of which
are here domesticated like the goat.

The country also abounds with larger deer of
different descriptions, one of which I this day had
the satisfaction of shooting, having cautiously
crept behind a bush very near to him. There
were a doe and fawn of the same description, at a

WESTERN AFRICA. 159

short distance, grazing. This chance would have
supplied us with plenty of venison for consumption
for several days could we have kept it fresh.
What we did not require the first day we broiled
in the smoke, and kept it very well for the second
day. This is the method adopted by the natives
in drying and preserving both meat and fish.
Even when a human head is desired to be pre-
served^ the brains are extracted through the spinal
connexion and the head held on the end of a
stick in the smoke till it becomes quite hard and
dry^ I have seen some thousands preserved in
this way in Dahomey.

Wild carnivorous animals are very numerous
here, and often make awful havoc amongst the
stock of cattle, though traps of various inventions
are employed (some of which would do credit to
English ingenuity) to destroy them. An immense
beam, with long spikes of hard wood fixed in it, is
suspended about seven feet higL This beam rests
on a pivot at each end. When the animal passes
under and between the two pivots, he treads upon
a lever which throws the beam oflF the pivots, and
it falls wil3i full weight on the animal, forcing the
spikes their full length into its body. They have
also man-traps of a very singular construction:
these, though simple, are the most efiicient I ever

160 TRAVELS m

saw. They are always placed in situations where
none but trespassers can be injured. This trap is
generally set in a fence^ so that a person climbing
over must come in contact with a certain part of
it, which secures a piece of wood connected with
another of about seyen feet long, which latter is
bent about two feet out of its natural position.
The slightest touch releases this, and the spring
resumes its natural position in a moment. In
doing so it strikes the intruder on the shins with
such violence as frequently to break both legs.

At twenty-six miles we arrived at the town of
Ongo, where we found the chief awaiting our
arrival, about half a mile out of the town, with a
number of horsemen and spearmen. Upon per-
ceiving us he immediately advanced towards us at
a gallop, the spearmen keeping pace with the
others, though on foot. When within a few yards
of us the whole cavalcade suddenly halted, and
the chief and his principal officers dismounted,
and all, except himself, prostrated themselves,
remaining in that position till they were told to
rise. The chief merely held out his hand, re-
peating the words, ^^ Sinou, sinou," which means,
Hov) are you f — how are you ? — and gave my hand
a hearty shake, bidding us welcome to his town.
He said he had been made aware of our approach,

WESTERN AFRICA. 161

and had prepared himself to meet us. He declared
himself glad to see a white man. Terrasso-weea,
he stated^ was his particular friend, 'and had a
white man with him, but not a proper white man
like myself. He told me that Terrasso-weea's
trading party were all good men, and were his
brothers, meaning that they were all Mahomedans.

Here we remained to cook some provisions.-
We were fortunate enough to obtain in exchange
for a pair of scissors some good yams and a small
grass bag of rice, containing about a pound. We
also got plenty of water, which was tolerably
good, but of a bitterish taste. This is frequently
the case when the water is stagnant, and a certain
sort of wood grows on its margin. Whether this
is injurious or not I am not able to say, as I did
not experience any evil effects myself, nor any of
my party, from its use. The country now became
delightful, and the monotony of a dreary plain was
relieved at intervals by table mountains in various
directions, nearly all of one height, not exceeding
nine thousand feet.

This place is neatly built for an African town,
and with considerable regularity of formation as
regards the market-places for the sale of different
commodities. The houses are very clean, and are
ornamented with various designs, similar to those

162 TBAVELS IN

I have just deecribed. The horse^ as I have
akeady said^ invariably forms a part o£ the family^
and is treated much better than on the coast,
where they are not bred, but brought from the
interior. Even here, however, many of the poor
animals are very lean for want of sufficient food,
as they are always tied by the foot, and are never
allowed their liberty.

WESTERN AFRICA, 163

CHAPTER VIL

Ongo — Weariness of my Attendants — Bivouac — ^Alarm of my
Horse at the Neighbourhood of Wild Beasts — Terror of the
Katives — Their Kindness — Establishment for Mahomedan
Converts — Singular Custom — My Anxiety to find Terrasso-
weea, who had been present at the Death of Mungo Park —
Loss of my Sand-glass — Its Construction-^ Adofoodia — The
Market-Place — Reception by the King — Interview with Ter-
rasso-weea — Ceremony of welcoming me — His Stores — Dis-
covery of an Old Acquaintance — Karrative of his Adventures
— Terrasso-weea's House — His Wives — Inquire of him Particu-
lars of the Fate of Mungo Park — His Relation of the Death
of that Intrepid Traveller — Terrasso-weea an Eye Witness of
it — Park's Property seiied by the King — His Despotic Cha*
racter — Flight of Terrasso-weea — My Palaver with the King
•—Hospitality of the Merchant— Information obtained re-
specting Timbuctoo — Market of Adofoodia.

After leaving the town of Ongo we were
met by several women carrying fowls and water
yams. Some of these we were fortunate enough
to purchase, in exchange for some needles and
thimbles. We had now an excellent stock of
provision, and we kept the fowls alive till we
should require them for consumption. My poor
fellows began to complain much of sore feet and
fatigue, telling me that "black master only want
man go long way when he make war one day^

164 TRAVELS IN

but white man make poor black man walk plentj
every day till him belly sore; then soon black
man die." No doubt my poor fellows were ex-
tremely tired, as I was myself, though I rode
more than half the distance. I felt much for
them, and sometimes showed them the wound on
my leg, and asked them how they could com-
plain when a white man, and in their hot country,
could stand the march with such a wound; but
their reply was invariably, ** White man different
to black man; black man lie down and die, suppose
his leg bad like mineJ"

At thirty-three miles I proposed to encamp for
the night. This proposal was readily assented to
by my tired companions. We accordingly selected
a convenient spot at some little distance from the
path, where we kindled a fire, having plenty of
wood close at hand. We soon prepared a good
mess, and having also cut some grass for my
horse, and given him a few heads of corn, which
we had saved from the previous night, we all began,
like the natives, to eat at the same table, and in a
short time fell fast asleep. Having left a good
fire, we were not afraid of wild beasts approaching
us while the fire continued to burn brightly, but
serpents are very apt to come where there is fire.
In fact, the natives often make large fires for the
purpose of attracting a certain species of snake.

WESTERN AFRICA. 165

which, when the fire Is extinguished, feast greedily
on the ashes.

Though snakes did not trouble us, we were,
however, about midnight, suddenly alarmed by the
snorting and pawing of my horse, who actually
bit my foot, to which he was tied, purposely to
awaken me. To our great surprise we found that
the horse's alarm had been caused by a large
species of wolf, which had no doubt been attracted
by the smell of the horse, which had observed it
prowling in our inmiediate neighbourhood ; there
it still remained, making at intervals most tre-
mendous howls. I fired off one of my pistols ; after
which we heard no more of him, but took our
position nearer to the fire. I was soon compelled
to change my position, however, for my horse
having a propensity for scratching the fire abroad,
scraped some of the fire amongst us, burning some
of our clothes. Notwithstanding this we were
again soon asleep, and had a tolerably good rest
until day-break.

I now found one of my Sierra Leone men
shivering violently from great fatigue, the heavy
dew, and the considerable quantity of rain which
had also fallen in the former part of the night.
I felt rather chilly myself, and sick at the stomach,
but dared not let my men know it, lest they should
be disheartened. I gave the poor fellow some

166 TRAVBLS m

quinine^ and also took some myself. In an hour
afterwards I gave him some James's powder, and
twenty drops of Battley's sedative of opium, which
soon caused lum to throw out a copious perspiration,
and the shiyering entirely ceased. Owing to this
circumstance we did not commence our journey
till we had breakfasted. Having a small calabash
of native honey, which we had carried with us in
case of illness, I put a portion of it in some hot
water, but having no meal we were obliged to use
water and honey alone. This materially aided the
medicine in promoting perspiration, and we were
soon all right again.

On the 1st of August we again resumed our
journey, bearing N., and varying during this day's
journey to 10* towards W., in expectation of
soon seeing our long-wished-for friend. This
morning's march seemed rather irksome, as we
proceeded full ten miles without meeting any
person of whom to inquire which was the right
path; and several by-paths communicating with
the direct one, we were not aware which to
select. Fortunately we had taken the right
path, by choosing the one apparently most beaten,
as we found by inquiry of a party whom we over-
took at the crossing of a path, resting under
the shade of a large tree. They seemed much
alarmed, and several of them fled, leaving be-

WESTERN AFRICA. 167

hind them the loads they were carryiBg to mar-
ket ; but when they found that we were friends,
they soon returned, and seemed pleased to find that
we were not robbers, as they at first took us to be.

We sat down under the tree, and entered into
conversation, when we ascertained that this party
were going in the same direction as ourselves, to a
town some few miles distant. The principal of
their load were yams and manioc, koUa-nuts and
grdund beans, plantains and bananas, the latter
of which one old woman ventured to ask my in-
terpreter if I would partake of, which of course
I readily accepted ; and she also gave my men
some each. In return I gave her a paper of
needles. The rest of the party were then anxious
to make me a dashy as they call it, upon the same
conditions ; but as we had now sufficient, we de-
clined to accept of any more. We soon resumed
our journey, marching in single file. The women,
as they went along, began singing a song, to
which they all kept good time. This seemed to
give fresh animation to my men, and we went
along for a short time as gaily as if we had been
in the Dahoman kingdom.

At thirteen miles, we arrived at a small town,
or kroom, where there is a large establishment,
a sort of convent or residence, for Mahomedan
converts, who have either voluntarily or com-

168 TRAVELS IN

pulsorily renounced the Pagan worship. These
individuals are never suffered to come outside
of the walls till they have strictly conformed
in every particular with the Mahomedan religion
for the space of thirteen moons, when they are
set at liberty, so far as to enjoy the privileges of
the other inhabitants; but should they attempt
to leave the country for any other kingdom, and
be captured any time afterwards, they are sure to
be put to death. These individuals are all distin-
guished by a certain mark, which is cut on the
face, in addition to the mark of the tribe to which
they belong.

A singular form exists in passing by this esta-
blishment. All persons must walk past on their
bare feet, or if they wear sandals, they must take
them off while they pass ; and if riding on horse-
back, or carried in any other way, they must dis-
mount and walk; nor must they look back till
quite past the prescribed mark, when the passers-
by are again allowed to mount and proceed. All
traders carrying a certain quantity of goods are
obliged to pay a toll or duty, which goes towards
the support of this establishment. Any evasion or
breach of these rules is punished by flagellation
and forfeiture of the whole of the goods in their
possession. We were not allowed to enter, but
every inquiry respecting the establishment was

WESTERN AFRICA. 169

answered; but whether the account given was
true or false, I am unable to determine.

The inmates are permitted to work at their trade,
whatcT^r it may be, and are allowed the price of
their labour, besides their subsistence while they
are within the walls. They are constantly at-
tended by priests, who visit the towns and mar-
kets within a certain distance, and there levy
contributions upon all articles of consumption, as
well as a duty which they demand upon cloths
and ornaments, for the support of their establish-
ment. No doubt a great share of this sort of
plunder falls to themselves. Our company of trad-
ing-women left us here.

After partaking of some refreshment we again
marched. No man could experience more anxiety
than I did myself during this part of my journey ;
for the next town we reached would decide the
success of the object I had in view. Many were
the doubts and fears that assailed me. Some-
times I thought Terrasso-weea might have gone
on, and have taken another direction ; and again,
even if he were there, perhaps my information
at Abomey respecting Mimgo Park might be
incorrect, and Terrasso-weea might know nothing
of the circumstances about which I was inter-
ested. At other times my spirits were buoyed
VOL. n. I

/

170 TRAVELS IN

up with the idea of seeing the white man^ as he
was represented to be. But, again, the thought of,
returning to Dahomey, and of incurring the King's
displeasure, who had been my best friend, and
perhaps, also, of being instrumental in causing
the caboceer of my guard, an excellent man, to
lose his head, oppressed me. However, to balance
this trouble, I had the consolation of having
visited a country which I should not otherwise
have seen; for even if I should survive the
climate and dangers incident to travellers in so
barbarous a country, I might not again have an
opportunity of visiting it.

While thus absorbed in varied reflections I had
forgotten my sand-glass, by which I measured the
distance we marched, but my poor fellows had
been long accustomed to call out the number of
quarters, or glasses, which I caused every man to
do aloud immediately after myself. My glass was
of a very simple construction. I took two small
phials, which had contained peppermint essence,
which had been given to me by an American
captain. I measured my sand by time ; then,
when I had ascertained the proper quantity, I
poured out the remainder from the opposite phial,
and again secured the piece of tin between the
mouths of the phials, sealing them both together

WESTERN AFRICA. 171'

hermeticallj^ and fixing them lengthwise iiito a
piece of palm stem, hollowed out oa one eide,
leaving one aide of the phials e^cpoeed. This al-
lowed m^ to observe when the glass was rnn out
The moment we halted any where I slipped the
strings which was attached to each end, and hung
about my neck/ a little round, so as to place the
glasses in a horizontal position, and stop their run-
ning until I again commenced marching.

On our journey we overtook numbers of people,
the female portion of whom were all heavily laden
with goods for the market of Adofoodia. Some
we met returning, who had already been there and
disposed of their goods* Even these people were
aware of our coming, and informed us that the
King had told his people that I should be there
9<Hne time in the forenoon. This was considered
by his subjects as an act of great condescension
on his part, as affording them an opportunity of
seeing a white man — a sight they had nev^r
witnessed.

At twenty-eight miles we arrived at the
anxiously-wished-for town of Adofoodia, which is
situated on a dry healthy plain, with a rich red soil,
the surface of a sandy nature, as if it had been carried
over the surface by water, at some remote period-
We were met by the King and his principal nqieiu

i2

172 TRAVELS IN

at s litde distance from the outer gates. This
town Is unlike many others ; for it is not fenced with
the pricklj bush I have before mentioned^ though
it is partially enclosed by clumps of large shrubs,
mixed with cotton and palm-trees.

The town is surrounded by a very thick clay
wall, about eighteen feet high. The outer market
is held in a large open space on the left after
entering the southern gate. It is shaded with
large trees, having leaves measuring nine inches
across, and about twelve in length. As soon as
we entered the market thousands came running
anxious to see us, which would inevitably have
caused great confusion, had royal power not been
exercised to maintain order. We had abeady
told the King our principal object in visiting his
country. He had the courtesy immediately to
take us to that part of the market (which was
some distance) where Terrasso-weea had his goods
laid out on large square pieces of carpet, evidently
of European manufacture, though of a pattern I
had never before seen.

At a few yards from this spot we were de-
sired to halt, and the King's chief messenger was
sent forward to acquaint Terrasso-weea with our
arrival. However, he had been already made
awar^ of the fiu5t, and had retired to his quarters

WESTERN AFRICA, 173

to change his tobe. The messenger soon arrived,
accompanied bj Terrasso-weea, who prostrated
himself before the King, who was on my right
and a little in advance. The King politely in-
formed him that he had taken upon himself to
introduce to him a stranger who had come to see
him from a far country. Whereupon the merchant
again prostrated himself and kissed the ground.
Then he arose and walked slowly towards me,
holding out his hand with a smile of satisfaction
beaming in his venerable countenance. He said
he was truly happy to see me. It was, he said, the
second time he had seen a white man in the course
of his life. The merchant took from a leather wal-
let, or spohran, hanging in front of his dress, similar
to that of a Highlander of Scotland, a small book
written in Persian- Arabic. From this he read some
form of welcome. He then begged the King's leave
to depart, which his Majesty, with every show of
politeness, agreed to, at the same time remarking
that it was his right to have the first of my com-
pany, being the principal object of my journey.
After a little time he should certainly claim the
privilege of a palaver with the white man.

We were then desired by the merchant to fol-
low him. He first led us to his stalls in the mar-
ket, by the side of one of which was seated, cross-

174 TRAVELS IN

legged, a dark swarthy man, but not much darker
than some of the Spaniards residing at Whydah.
I was struck with the expression and quick in-
telligent eye of this man, and could not help
fancying that I had seen the same individual at
some previous period. The man eye4 me for
some minutes with great interest, and at last
suddenly advanced towards me, holding out
both his hands, and clasping his arms round
waist.

I did not much relish this sort of embrace from
a stranger; but, by his expression, I could observe
that the salute was friendly. He then passed his
hands down each side, pressing my person gently,
in a similar manner to the searchers in the docks*
Then he explained himself, to my great though
agreeable surprise. He proved to be a merchant
whom I met with when we were at the town of
Egga with the late unfortunate Niger expedition.
He was then accompanied by another man, and
was on a trading tour from Kabba, attending the
market at Egga. I was invited by the malaam of
Egga to dine with him, for he invites all strangers
to take refreshment. It was in his house that I
met these two individuals, who seemed quite
delighted to meet me. They stated themselves to
be natives of Tripoli.

:w^

WESTERN AFRICA. 175

This man possessed great intelligence^ and
seemed anxious to afford any information likely
to be interesting to me. He informed me that his
companion was still at Kabba, trading from thence
to Bornou. He was himself employed by Ter-
rasso-weea. While thus engaged in conversa-
tion^ a tall fine-looking man advanced towards us^
with a very pleasing and expressive smile on his
countenance. To my great astonishment^ this
man made me a bow^ and addressed me^ first in
Spanish and then in English. j

I can scarcely remember any occurrence In my
lifetime that gave me, for the moment, more plea-
sure than this ; such an incident being so little anti-
cipated by me in a region so distant from civilized
intercourse. This poor fellow gave me a brief but
interesting accoimt of himself, which I here set
down in as few words as possible. He was a native
of Bornou, but, in the wars^ was taken and sold as
a slave. From one party to another he was dis-
posed of, till he was brought to Whydah, where
he remained some months, and was well treated.
He was then shipped from thence to Bahia, and
remained there as a slave for the space of twenty-
one years. During ten years of that period he
was principal or head cook to the firm of Boothby
and Johnston, of Liverpool.

176 TRAVELS IN

When I told him I was well acquainted with
Liverpool^ he seemed quite delighted, and ex-
pressed great anxiety to accompany me thither.
He spoke very highly of his former masters,
and of the time of his bondage as the happiest
days of his life. I asked him how he came to
leave them. He informed me that he was libe-
rated at the emancipation of slaves held by British
subjects, and that the early dreams of his child-
hood were still so strongly imprinted on his
memory that he preferred visiting his birth-place
to remaining a hired servant in Bahia. Well, he
returned in a Brazilian schooner to Whydah,
where he was landed, and there fell in with sever
ral of his acquaintances of Bahia.
' At Whydah he remained some months, then
went to the Yarriba country, and after some
months arrived at his native town. But now the
spell was broken, and all his happy dreams of more
than twenty years had vanished. His native town
had twice been burnt down by the enemy, and
was chiefly inhabited by strangers from a far
country. He was now an obscure stranger, and
looked upon with suspicion, and his long-cherished
home was to him a desolate waste. With a
lonely heart, he again turned from the place, and
when on his journey, intending to return to the

Arf-

T — .'

WESTERN AFRICA. 177

t^oast, and to Bahia if possible^ he happened to
meet Terrasso-weea, at a town where he was
trading. He was readily employed, and had since
travelled a great deal in different directions with
his master, whom he described to be an excellent
man. Before leaying my friend I ought to mention
that he wrote his name, and described in Spanish
the time he remained in slavery, and also the
names of Boothby and Johnston. The date of his
liberation is also noted. I have this paper still in
my possession.

To return to Terrasso-weea, who had retired to
a short distance as soon as my Bahia friend had
entered into conversation with me. Observing
a pause in our conversation he again came up to
me, and shewed me all his goods in the market.
He had a great number of carriers, who convey
the goods on their heads. This was the only
place where I had seen the camel used for burden
since leaving Tangiers. Terrasso-weea had eight
of these animals, besides a great number of
men.

The afternoon was now far advanced, and in
consequence of my presence Terrasso-weea ordered
all his goods to be taken into his stores ; so that an
opportunity might be afforded my friends, as well
as himself, of a palaver with a white man. Terrasso-

i3

178 TRAVELS IN

weea then invited me to his house^ which was
always occupied by some of his wives and an agents
whether he were present or not. His dwelling and
those of his domestics formed a quadrangle of con-
siderable extent. His own apartment was richly
ornamented with various rude designs^ painted in
different colours upon the walls. Curiously carved
«tools were placed around the apartment, and a
clay couch, which was covered with several finely
worked mats of varied colours, over which was
a richly worked native wove cloth, bordered
with a fringe of red and yellow silk. He was less
scrupulous than most Africans as regards the
introduction of his wives, though probably more
with a view to gratify their curiosity than my
own. Some of them were considered as very
handsome Africans, although they varied very
much in colour. A great many of them were
Bomouese.

After drinking water with the merchant, I
Jianded him the paper entrusted to me by the
Mahomedan priest at Abomey. Upon this he
immediately started to his feet, and seemed almost
frantic with joy. At the receipt of the epistle,
which was written in the Persian - Arabic, I
availed myself of this opportunity to inform him
of my object in coming to this country: but the

WESTERN AFRICA. 179

perusal of the note had already made him aware
that the object of mj inquiry was to learn some-
thing respecting the fate of the lamented Mungo
Park. He said he was anxious to give me all the
information in his power respecting the death of
that intrepid traveller. His account I shall here
narrate as nearly as possible as he related . it
to me.

Terrasso-weea stated, that when he was a young
man and living in Yaouri, with the king of that
place« as third malaam, or priest, a very tall white
man came down the great river Joleeba, having a
very large canoe, the centre covered over with
matting in the form of a teia^^-. He was accom«
panied by several black men, and had one sheep
and several goats, with a few fowls, in the canoe,
which they carried with them for food. Amongst
the crew was one man, a native of the neighbour-^
hood of Yaouri, whose name was Amadi Fatuma.
This man had accompanied Mungo Park from a
town at a considerable distance higher up the river,
where he had gone with a trading caravan. As
soon as this man arrived at Yaouri, his native
place, he of course left the canoe, but had pre-,
viously received payment. This cunning fellow
advised Park to stop at Yaouri to purchase some
necessary provisions, declaring that he could

180 TRAVELS IN

procure them cheaper by his assistance. Park
accordingly went on shore^ and was introduced to
the King, who supplied him with what he required
for subsistence, for which he paid him his full
demand.

Soon after he retired to his canoe, to prepare
for sailing; but on his way, one of the King's
messengers overtook him, stating that Amadi
Fatuma had complained to the King that Mr.
Park had not paid him any wages, nor had he
given him any thing a« a dash; and that the King
had sent officers to detain Park till the demand
was paid. Park indignantly denied the truth of
this assertion, and determined not to yield to the
imposition, but immediately stepped on board his
canoe, accompanied by the party who had been
with him on shore. He desired the messenger
to return, and bring Amadi Fatuma to make his
claim in person. Amadi did return, accompanied
by the malaam priest, that is, the chief of the
priesthood, Terrasso-weea being already present.
He then in person boldly demanded his wages,
declaring that he had not been paid according to
his agreement, although all Park's people stated
they saw him paid a great deal more than was
agreed. Terrasso-weea' says he is doubtful whether
the King, who was a despotic tyrant, had not

I

WESTERN AFRICA. 181

encouraged or urged Amadi to make his dishonest
demand, for many people believed the white man's
tale.

However^ the King's orders were directed to be
enforced; and when Park's people were in the
act of loosening the painter of the canoe, which
was made fast to a stump of a tree, or a post
driven into the bank for that purpose, one of the
King's officers seized hold of the gunwale of the
canoe to detain it, when Park, with a sabre, at
one blow cut the officer's hand off. This exaspe-
rated the natives, who raised a continuous yell,
and at the same time threw a number of stones
into the canoe. Whereupon Park fired many times
into the crowd, killing several and wounding
many.

It was not tiQ then that a general attack was
made, for many of the people were in favour of
Park, if they had dared to show it. Soon after
the attack Park was killed, or at least mortally
wounded, so that he died soon after he was taken
into the presence of the King, who pretended to feel
regret that the charge had not been paid without
resorting to such a measure. Nearly all who
were in the canoe were killed or mortally wounded.
Park with his own hands fired the guns, while the
others were loading the several muskets in their

182 TRAVELS IN

possession. The arms used by the natives were
bows and spears.

Terrasso-weea was during the whole time an eye-
witness of this scene^ and he declares it to be his

•ft

opinion, that had Park, after severing the hand,
pushed oflf his canoe, and proceeded down the river,
he might have got oflf without any more injury
than the pelting with the stones. I questioned
him respecting the falls represented to have been
the cause of his canoe upsetting ; but he declared
that there are no such falls as to impede in any
way the navigation of a canoe of any size for more
than two himdred miles higher up ; but merely a
rapid current pacing between some ki^e boulders
of granite, between which he had himself passed
nearly the number of days in two moons.

He further stated in reply to questions from
me, that Park was taken out of his canoe alive,
but would not speak when taken before the King.
All the property in the canoe was claimed by the
King, and some of it distributed in presents to his
courtiers. Terrasso-weea was presented with a
small box, which, by his description, was either a
tobacco-box and stopper, or a snuflF-box and tooth-
pick, but I should suppose the former.

I made minute inquiry respecting his papers,
and was informed that about twenty-six moons after

"■«HiB9Hai^ViBB«aHHHHBB19Q

WESTEBN AFRICA. 183

the occurrence, a white man came from Tripoli
and purchased some large papers with crooked
lines and much of writing upon them. These
papers were secured in a long metal tube. I
asked if he were not mistaken in the man who
purchased the papers coming from Tripoli, and
whether it was not from Constantinople. At this
question, the merchant seemed a little offended,
and again asserted that the man came from Tri-
poli. He said he purchased the papers at a high
price, and when he had departed, a messenger
was sent after him by the King to recall him,
when another demand was made upon him, equal
to the first payment before he was allowed to
depart.

The other books in Park's possession were sold
in parts to the different priests and malaams,
to make into amulets, which consist of slips of
the paper rolled up hard, and sewn into a piece
of fancy-coloured and stitched leather, and are
suspended by a neatly plaited or twisted thong of
goat-skin round the neck. He belieyed that some
amulets had been carried more than two hundred
les^ues, or sixty days' journey. I asked him how
he came to leave the service of the King of Yaouri.
In reply he told me that he had been six years with-
out receiving any pay, and had ventured to solicit

184 TRAVELS IN

part payment^ when the £jDg told him that his
insolence deserved death, which punishment he
would certainly inflict, threatening the same fate
to the priest I had seen at Abomey. Upon this
threat, the two priests determined on making
their escape, which they with diflSculty effected ;
and had they not been in favour with the people,
and the Kjng disliked for his barbarity, their
escape would have been impossible.

Having some pecuniary means they retreated
to the kingdom of Bornou, where they remained
for some years, living in the capacity of priests,
and there they gained the favour of the sheik or
king; but, unfortunately, the country becoming in-
volved in war, and their master beheaded, they
were compelled again to retreat, and ever since
had been travelling as merchants, sometimes re-
maining four or five moons in one town. Terrasso-
weea was also a dealer in slaves, when it suited
his purpose. The goods in which he traded were
chiefly Bornou ornaments — armlets, bracelets, and
anklets, very heavy and richly chased or carved ;
native razors and beads, cloths of various manu-
facture and colours, various-coloured tobes, and
neatly carved wooden bowls, bows and arrows,
some brass rods, no doubt of European manu-
facture.

WESTERN AFRICA. 183

During our conversation my friend, the Bahia
cook^ seemed very anxious to ask some questions.
I could not help admiring the difference between
the sagacious behaviour of this man and that of
his uncivilized brethren around him. He asked
me a great many questions respecting Boothby and
Johnston, and begged me to call on the firm, and
deliver certain messages on my return to England.
He intended to embrace the first opportunity of re-
turning to Whydah, where he had some acquaint-
ances, for he was not now comfortable, being entirely
shut out from the civilized world. If he could only
hear of any of his old master's family being still
alive in Liverpool, he would yet endeavour to get
a passage thither,* The King had sent provision to
us, and our host had also furnished us with more
than a suflGiciency; my excellent friend the cook
begging to perform the cooking, declaring that it
did his heart good to wait on a white man, but
more especially an Englishman.

My friend and old acquaintance, the Tripoli
man, seemed anxious to learn something of the
steamers composing the Niger expedition. It
appeared that he was quite acquainted with the
disastrous fate of that expedition, and also with

* I have, since my return, called on the firm of Messrs.
Boothbj and Johnston, and found this stoiy perfectly correct.
His old masters gare him an excellent character.

186 TRAVELS IN

the abandonment of the model farm^ which he
says he himself visited after he saw me at Egga.
He says that the natives regretted much the
abandonment of the farm^ but the people are still
in hopes of our again returning to trade with
them. So that though the lives of many good
men were sacrificed, the expedition has excited an
inclination to trade, which must always be the
leading means of civilization.

The King now sent his messengers to ask if I
had finished my palaver, as he wished me and the
merchant to pay him a visit at his palace. Thither
we accompanied the messenger, and found his
Majesty seated cross-legged on a square piece of
Turkey carpet* He had two large brass pans
beside him, without any contents, consequently I
suppose they were merely used as ornaments. He
had two of his principals sitting close by him ; these
were his principal malaams. Upon my approach he
rose from his position, and shook hands with me^
and then reseated himself on a low, richly-carved
stool, the malaams each nursing a leg on their lap.

The sun was now set, and this interview was by
torch-light. The King asked a great many ques-
tions about the sovereign of my country, and when
told that the monarch was a woman he seemed
confounded. He next asked me if she had many

WESTERN AFRICA. 187

husbands, and when I told him that she had onlj
one, he shrunk up his shoulders. He then in-
quired if she went out to war in person. In fact,
his inquiries were endless. Our palaver lasted
about an hour, at the end of which we were
allowed to retire.

We returned to the house of the merchant,
where we had supper, and were afterwards ac-
commodated with a comfortable mat and cloth to
sleep upon. I slept very soundly, and did not
awake till aroused by the noise of people getting
their goods ready for the market. There are
several markets in thia town, consequently they
are held on different days. I arose, and the Bahia
cook had prepared some delicious dishes for my
breakfast. The poor fellow seemed quite delighted
to attend to my wants.

At breakfast I ate by myself, the merchant
preferring other dishes. I made inquiry respecting
the distance to Timbuctoo. He said that he had
come from Timbuctoo in ten days, by commencing
his journey before the sun, and travelling all day,
only stopping to eat once. I found by comparing
the day's journey that he had come from the
Dabadab Mountains. Thirty miles was about his
day's journey. He described Timbuctoo as not
nearly so large as Adofoodia, and that it was only

188 TRAVELS IN

remarkable as a mart for the exchange of goods
as being convenient for that purpose. It is a
great salt market, but has no manufacture.

The natives are chiefly employed in loading
and unloading goods for the different traders, who
assemble here to meet the various caravans and
canoeSi which arrive there at certain periods. A
high duty is imposed upon every article of trade
carried thither, in consequence of which great
disturbance has been caused of late years, by the
merchants refusing to pay it. Timbuctoo is de-
scribed as being a considerable distance from the
Joleeba, or Niger, up a tributary stream. Ter-
rasso-weea informed me, as also the Tripoli
merchant, that there are thirty-six branches or
tributary rivers. All of these within one league
run into the Niger, or Joleeba, near the Tim-
buctoo branch. Adofoodia is as large as Abomey,
and its trade nearly equal in native merchandise.
It is by observation, in latitude 13® 6' N. and by
reckoning 1<» 3' East longitude.

The market at Adofoodia is well supplied with
nearly every article already mentioned, except
tobacco, which I did not observe. Slaves are here
sold in great numbers. During my stroll round
the town I was followed by dense crowds of
people wherever I went. Upon my return to my

WESTERN AFRICA. 189

quarters, I was visited by the ^ing, who expiessed
a wish to see me fire out of my gun.

To gratify his curiosity I shot a pigeon which
was flying past. This excited great surprise. He
sent me a head of cowries to treat my men on my
return to Dahomey. I had now only a few knives
left, two of which I gave him, as well as some
needles. I also gave some presents to my other
kind Mends, with whom I felt myself quite at
home. They pressed me hard to stop another
day, but circumstances would not permit me, and
after being furnished with another head of cowries
by Terrasso-weea, we marched on our return for
the Kong Mountains, during which nothing very
extraordinary occurred further than a slight
fever; and on the 13th August, in the evening,
we once more, to my great joy, arrived at Baffo,
where I found my guard and the captain almost in
despair.

\ :

« I

i

190 TRAVELS IN

CHAPTER VIIL

Return to BafFo— Anxie^ of my Caboceer— Rejoicings for my
Return — Our March— Fine Plain — Plants — Neutral Ground —
Natives of the Bassa Mountains — Agriculture — The Annagoos,
dangerous Enemies — Poisoned Arrows — Poisonous Plants —
Alarm of my Attendants on my plucking it — Fatal Effects of
this Plant and Dread of it by the Natives — Number of the
Natives blind, supposed to be the result of it — Unsuccessful
Attack on them by the Dahomans — Spiral Bocks — Hostile
Demeanour of the Natives — ^They follow us with Menaces —
Some Account of these Mountaineers, and of the Daasa Moun-
tains — The Blue Eagle — Cataracts — Beautiful Plain — One
of my Cases of Rum broken by a Carrier — Twisted Marble of
Variegated Colours^Path covered with Pepper-trees — Mon-
keys — Logazohy — Mayho's Town— The Caboceer — Tbe Mei>
chants — ^Their Names — Carelessness with respect to Fire —
Visit of the Cabooeer*

I WAS told by some of my people whom I had
left at Baffo^ that the captain or caboceer had
almost starved himself, having for some days after
my march from Baffo to the Fellattah country re-
fused food. He expressed his certain belief that in
the event of his returning without me to Abomey
he should lose his head. The character of the
Dahoman is proverbial for being easily depressed,
and as easily elevated. I was certainly a very wel-

J

— ■ n,m L

WESTERN AFRICA, 191

come sight to all my people whom I had left at
Baffo. Immediately after my arrival a messenger
was despatched to Abomey to acquaint the King
with my return. He had sent a messenger daily
to Baffo to ascertain whether any tidings had been
obtained of my safety. These communications
were kept up by a number of messengers stationed
at intervals between Abomey and BafFo. After
a short palaver, in which my motives for clandes-
tinely leaving Baffo were condemned by them
and justified by myself, I broached one of the
rum kegs I had left at Baffo when I left for the
Dabadab Mountains, and gave each of my people a
dram. This soon settled all differences, and in a
short time the merry dance succeeded to doubts
and extreme anxiety.

The whole of the following day, August 14th,
was spent in rejoicing, drinking peto, and dancing ;
and early on the foUowing morning arrangements
were made for marching on our return to Abomey.
My excellent old friend Kpatchie, the caboceer of
Zoglogbo, who had spent the evening with us, was
^ain at Baffo by day-break, with a guard of one
hundred men to accompany me on the first part of
my journey. The caboceer of Baffo, Agassadoo,
had also one hundred men ready to accompany
me, making in all, with my own people, three

192 TRAVELS IN

hundred armed men. My men^ who accompanied
me on my journey to Adofoodia, through the ex-
cessive fatigue which they had undergone and too
freely indulging on the previous night, were so
completely worn out and feverish, that it was
arranged to leave them to their own discretion to
return to Abomey by the nearest route ; but with
orders not to be later than ourselves in arriving in
the capital.

With great satisfaction to myself and the
Dahoman soldiers, we now commenced our march
for the town of Logazohy, bearing N.N.W. Our
march was across a fine plain, partly cultivated,
with a crescent of mountains, called the Dassa
Mountains, to the south and west. This valley,
or plain, is well watered by small streams and
springs of various qualities, and the surface of the
soil is of a sandy clay. In crossing it I observed
many different species of bulbous plants, of the
flag tribe, which I had not noticed previously in
any part of Africa I had yet visited ; some of their
blossoms or flowers appeared very much like the
breast of a partridge in colour, and resembled in
shape and texture the wing of the dragon-fly. A
certain distance fromBaffo, after emergmg into
the plain, is considered neutral ground between
the Annagoos and Mahees, the former occupying

WESTERN AFRICA. 193

the wliole of the chain of the Dassa Mountains,
and denouncing all intercourse with their neigh-
bours on either side of the mountains. They are
consequently deficient in every article of European
manufacture, possessed by their trading neighbours.
They are contented, however, with their own re-
sources, and, according to the old adage, that
necessity is the mother of invention, they are con-
sidered much more ingenious than their rival
neighbours. They are also good farmers, and like
the Mahees and Dahomans, in the vicinity of
their own towns, they hold farms by hereditary
right, a method which does not exist in any part
of the West Coast. There, generally, after one
man has obtained a single crop from any piece of
land, he is too indolent to follow up cultivation for
a second, and consequently the ground is either
left to be overrun with spontaneous vegetation, or
to be taken possession of by another party.

The Annagoos of the Dassa mountains are con-
sidered dangerous enemies, although by no means
distinguished for their valour or gallantry, but on
account of their superior skill in the manufacture
of different poisons. Perhaps the opinion en-
tertained of these people may arise from supersti-
tion, but it is certain that a plant from which the
strongest poison is extracted grows in abund^nci^

VOL. n. K

194 TRAYBI^ IK

at the base of these monntaina, and that with this
the poison for their arrows is prepared. This
plant grows about eight feet high, has a round
stem about the thickness of a man's thigh, and is
of a greenish grey colour. Its stems are fluted
triangularly, and shoot firom the main trunk at
regular intervals. The stems or major branches
also send forth minor ones bearing a resem-
blance and proportion to the horns of a species
of deer or antelope abundant in this country.
It is of the cactus tribe, and the whole is of
a fleshy nature, but quite smooth and without
prickles, growing almost without soil on the bare
sur&ce of the granite rock, and receiving nou-
rishment from its long fleshy roots, which run
in difierent directions, till they find some narrow
fracture or crevice, into which they insert them-
selves. Their growth is very rapid.

I had been cautioned by my Dahoman caboceer,
early in the morning previous to our marching,
not to touch either a flower or a shrub of any
description, or even pick up a pebble, as I had
been in the habit of doing when I observed any
thing new on my journey. I took little heed of
this wholesome injunction, supposing that his
motives were merely to prevent any delay on the
road, as the day was likely to be rainy. Upon

V-Jl ■^■•■' i'ls+.-T -^Iv r ^:,:^^l ;. j.

''*' " ■ •'» i^'^^i ill :. inoim;-i;i ii ^• as ^^,; ■ :..• !
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>'« — i ill .^>ir uct v'. »;,';

::tr!u^!'tiij.ary j,,.;iiber of hih it ^:- ori^, :; . .
-•"v. I tho';.:;: t. iSa :;.'^ .^-jis -,■ '.;.....; * ,-..
n.i.n/ wc-0 :■ . . ;- : . ,,| h'.,..^ y, . .,.,^ ^^r

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WESTERN AFRICA. 195

observing a succession of this plant, as I rode
along, I carelessly laid hold of and broke off a
portion of the stem of one, which was extremely
brittle. A yell was instantly raised amongst
my soldiers, and in a moment it was snatched
out of my hand, and thrown a considerable
distance from the path, while another soldier
seized my horse's head and pulled it on one side
from the plant.

Upon inquiring the cause of such an uncere-
monious proceeding, I was assured, that I had
run into extreme danger myself, as well as all
those near my person, as this plant was the most
deadly poison to be found in that country, and
that even the vapour from a fracture or wound in
the stem or any other part of it, from which
a milky liquid almost in a stream exudes, which
comes in contact with the eye, invariably causes
total blindness, and death immediately any par-
ticle of the juice comes in contact with the
blood* Be this bs it may, I certainly observed
in Logazohy and some neighbouring krooms an
extraordinary number of blind persons, as ^w^ell
as blind dogs, which naturally excited my curio-
sity. I thought that this was occasioned by the
ravages of the small-pox, but I observed that
many were totally blind where no signs of

k2

196 TRAVELS IX

small-pox were visible, (though this disease is
trery prevalent here as well as in all the neigh-
bouring kingdoms to the north and east of these
mountains,) but upon inquiry, I found that the
blindness was attributed to coming in contact with
this plant.*

None but the inhabitants of the Dassa mountains,
it is said, ean safely make use of this plant. It
was also stated to me, that three years ago, when
an attempt was made upon a certain large town,
on one of these mountains, the inhabitants poi-
soned the waters which ran near the Dahoman
camp, from which the besiegers obtained their
supplies, and in consequence, that some thousands
of the Dahoman army perished in the most excru-
ciating ngony. On this account the siege was
abandoned. No other attempt has ever since been
made to take this town, though wells might be
dug and water obtained with very little trouble,
for springs are numerous and copious in this
neighbourhood.

Previous to our arrival at the mountain-pass
whieh divides the crescent, through which we

* After my return to Whydah, I happened to mention this
eireamstance to a Portngaese Blave-merchant, at the same time
doubting the truth of the powers of this plant. He assured me
of the correctness of this information, and that the same plant
is to be found in the Brazils.

WESTERN AFRICA. 197

marched in crossing this range of mountains, we
passed inanj singularly formed spiral rocks,
upon some of which were resting immense blocks
af the same material, placed horizontally. Upon
several of these apparently dangerous precipices,
men were perched, and even dogs with them, each
man armed with bow and arrow, watching us as
we passed. At the moment I was quite unaware
of their motive for watching us so narrowly, and
concluded that it was nierely the curiosity of see-
ing us as we passed, but we had not gone more
than a very short distance before I found out their
motive. These selfish people, besides shunning
all intercourse with other tribes, will not allow
even a pebble, or any thing dead or alive, not
even a serpent^ to be carried into another country.
Not being made acquainted with this circum-
stance, (though I had been cautioned without any
reason being assigned by my caboceer,) I asked
one of my private servants to pick up a piece
of stone of an unusual appearance. As soon as
this was observed by them, a Dassa bowman ran
up nearly alongside of me, raising several hideous
yells, accompanied with menacing gestures. I
did not know their language, and the Dahomans
only understood what was meant by the bowman's
motions directing me to give up the stone* His

198 TRAVELS IN

yell brought in less than five minutes many hun-
dreds of men and boys^ all armed with bows
and arrows^ many of whom had their arrows
already resting on the string. My caboceer^ who
had now placed himself alongside of my horse,
reminded me of the caution he had given me.

The Dassa people were still advancing alongside
of us, continuing their hideous yells. Observing
this, I asked the meaning of their following us, and
was told that they were singing the stranger's
praise, but their gestures and menacing attitudes
convinced me that it was not so, though to drown
the noise, my own people began a song in praise
of the "king's stranger," as they called me. At
last one of the Dahomans admitted, that, although
he was unacquainted with their language, he was
certain the Dassa people were cursing us. Upon
this I remonstrated with the caboceer upon his
suffering them to follow us in such a menacing
manner, and begged him to order the additional
guard to load their pieces, and give our pursuers
a volley. He assured me that their pieces had
been loaded previous to our leaving Baffo, and
that each man had three bullets in his musket.
He declared that he should like to give them a
volley, which he knew would soon disperse them,
but that the King had given him orders not on any

N

WESTERN AFRICA. 199

account to commence hostilities^ except in the
event of an attack^ and then to retaliate imme-
diately with all his force.

This was doubtless a more prudent course than I
could at that moment reconcile myself to, having
already experienced the advantage of taking the
first step in an affray with Africans, but after-
wards the King of Dahomey argued the injustice
of a first attack, as we were only intruders in the
Dassa territory, and had not come there to make
war. I had my carbine and both pistols heavily
charged with slugs, and could willingly have made
the Dassa bowmen a present of a few when they
first came up alongside of me, had the caboceer
allowed me.

After accompanying us two miles in the manner
I have described, that is, till we reached the
neutral ground on the N. W. side of the moun-
tains, they suddenly turned back towards their
homes. My fine old friend Kpatchie, and also
the caboceer of Baffo, soon afterwards left us to
return to their respective abodes. It now came
on to rain heavily, rendering the path, which
is of a light clay, extremely slippery.

Before leaving the natives of the Dassa moun-
tains, it may not be uninteresting to make a
few observations respecting them. For gene-

200 TllAVELS IN

rations they have inhabited this range of moun-
tains^ though they have been on several occa-
sions disturbed by enemies^ who however have
always been repulsed with loss. Their mountains are
extremely difficult of access ; and, unlike any of
their neighbours, they take the precaution to pre-
serve sufficient food for some months, in case of a
besieging force coming against them. This pre-
caution, and the supply of water from the
mountain springs, enables them to withstand the
force and skill of any enemy. They speak a
language quite distinct from that of the neigh-
bouring tribes, one instance of the inaccuracy
of Mr. Crowther*s assertion that all the tribes
inhabiting the Kong Mountains, from the Niger to
the Ashantee country, speak the same language.

I had several Yarriba and Houssa men with me,
all of whom declared that they could not speak the
Dassa language. These mountaineers are selfish and
revengeful in the extreme, and are considered great
cowards, for they depend chiefly upon the chances
of poisoning their enemy. They are numerous
on account of theit never disposing of their slaves,
and polygamy is, as in most African kingdoms,
allowed to any extent. Their towns (those at least
which we saw) were large and well-peopled, and
their position judiciously selected for defence.

WESTERN AFRICA. 201

They do not keep their cattle in herds on the
plains, like their neighbours, but on the .mountains,
which haye more vegetation than most of the
Mahee mountains of the same height. They are
great farmers and hunters. Regular markets of
exchange are established with one another. It is
said that they have a superior method of manu-
facturing iron, which has been observed in their
arrow-heads. Their worship is pagan.

The west side of some of these mountains
presents to the observer a most singular appear-
ance, being composed of immense blocks of stone,
(granite,) thrown by some volcanic power indis-
criminately one upon another, resembling at a
distance the large towns built on other parts of
the mountains. The highest of the Dassa moun-
tains, which is close on the left or south side of the
pass crossing this chaiq, is two thousand five
hundred feet high. The pass through these moun-
tains is picturesque and grand; huge blocks of
granite resting on pivots and angles, almost terrific
to pass. The blue eagle, and various large birds
of varied plumage and forms, give a wild grandeur
to. the scene. The pass is extremely rough, the
traveller ascending and descending rocks, to the
distance of a mile, to avoid the deep pools in the
hollows between them, formed by the stream of

k3

202 TRAVELS IN

considerable size which runs in the same direction
as the pass. The noise and gushing sound of the
cataracts reminded me of scenes far distant. I
should have enjoyed it much better had we not
been annoyed by the Dassa people.

It is remarkable, that in all the mountains in
the interior I have never observed a stone build-
ing, though stone might much easier be obtained
than the clay with which they are invariably
built; for instance, they carry clay from the plain
fbr the purpose of building upon granite rocks, on
mountain-tops elevated two thousand feet from
their base. The lion, hy»na, and panther abound
in these mountains, and often commit great de-
predations. The antelope is also a resident here.

After crossing the chain of the Dassa moun^
tains, we entered another beautiful plain, quite
open to a distance of many miles to the north-
ward. The soil is of a light sandy clay and loam,
well watered by small streams, running to the
N.E. The ground, in consequence of the heavy
rains, had, as I stated, become very slippery ; and,
whether by accident or intentionally I cannot
determine, one of my Dahoman carriers, sent
with me by Mayho, let fall from his h^dad a large
case, containing bottles of rum, breaking all but
two. One of the soldiers who was close behind

^^mtmi

WE8TEBN AFRICA. 203

him stated that this act was intentional^ and the
caboceer declared that he would report the slave's
conduct to his master immediately upon his return
to Abomey. It was an unfortunate event to
myself and the caboceer, especially as my stock of
spirits was now nearly exhausted, and we had still
many towns to visit, where in all such cases a
present of a flask of rum is considered an indisr
pensable dash to the caboceers and their headmen «
Immediately after the case fell from the man'^
head, one of the soldiers placed it on its bottoyi,
and I opened it. The box being pretty closely
packed, we managed to preserve a considerable
portion of the rum ; but I had only two bottles,
which I always ordered my own men to carry in
their havresacks, filled with water. We poured
out the water from these, and filled them with the
dirty rum. The bottles having been packed with
straw, some of the soldiers wrung out the rum
into their calabashes, to drink. The remainder
of the rum was distributed amongst my people,
with the exception of the unfortunate carrier,
whom the caboceer would not allow to taste it ;
and, as a farther punishment, he was ordered to
change his load for a much heavier, one. The
plain was here thinly studded with palm and shea
butter-trees.

204 TRATEL8 IN

After marching about thirteen miles, we entered
a thick wood; which runs along the base of a
second range or crescent of mountains, similarly
situated to the Dassa mountains, but of much less
magnitude, and thickly wooded to the top. The
geology of this differs from the Dassa range,
being composed chiefly of limestone, and a
beautifully twisted or waved marble of variegated
colours — yellow, white, blue, and red. After
passing about five miles along their base, under
lurge trees of various sorts, the rain falling
in torrents, we arrived at the pass across this
second range. The path, though well trodden
under foot, was entirely covered with pepper trees,
of the small Chili tribe, about ten feet in height.

These bushes proved very annoying for a dis-
tance of about two miles. The branches of the
pepper-trees extended across the path at about
four feet from the ground, where they were so
firmly interwoven as almost to unseat me from my
saddle, and being in full bearing at this season the
annoyance was still greater, the seeds coming in
contact with the face and eyes, and causing
actual torture.

It was very agreeable again to see the op^
plain, which we found at a short distance from the
mountains, beautifully cultivated. I forgot to men-

WESTERN AFRICA. 205

tioD, that during our passing oyer the last range,
I observed some very singularly marked monkeys,
having a white streak across the upper part of the
forehead, white round the mouth, and on the tip
of the nose. These were much smaller than the
black or brown monkey, and of a slate-grey-coloured
body. We passed several large shocks of beans
or peas, of a description I had not yet noticed.
TChey appeared to be very prolific, and were about
the size of the horse-bean in England, but as
white as our white pea ; the stalk about three fe6t
long, and also of a light colour. I found upon
inquiry that these were preserved for seed, which
were to be immediately put into the ground,
though they had only been two days gathered. I
was told that the seed would produce another
crop in the space of two moons and a half. In
this country they have also a great variety of
the ground-bean and nut, which is also very
abundant.

After twenty-one miles we arrived at the town
of Logazohy, where, although completely drenched
by the day's heavy rain, we were obliged to remain
in the market-place till the poor old caboceer,
who was in a very delicate state of health, could
prepare himself for my reception, as the King's
stranger. After the usual prostration and forms

206 TRAVELS IN

of welcome^ by drinking water, and then rum, we
were led into a spacious court-yard, where we
observed a number of young female slaves, who
were very handsome, busily employed in grind-
ing com. They seemed to have been taken
Unawares, for upon our approach they instantly
fled. We passed into a second and much
smaller yard, where a good house for myself and
private servants was pointed out to me. This I
ascertained belonged to Mayho*s traders, who are
stationed here.

The town belonging to Mayho by right of con-
quest, the honour of accommodating me with this
apartment was claimed by these men, Mayho
having been appointed white man's guardian or
father during his sojourn in the Dahoman king-
dom. This circumstance seemed to cause a certain
degree of jealousy on the part of the caboceer
and head men, who insinuated that the apartments
were not sufficiently good for the King's white
stranger to lodge in. However, I expressed my-
self quite satisfied and comfortable. After being
supplied with a thick rush-mat and a country-
cloth, I stripped off all my wet clothes, and
wrapped myself in the cloth.

The whole front of my house was open, con-
sequently crowds, both young and old of both

WE8TEBN AFBICA. 207

sexes, pressed eagerly almost into my apartment,
to see my white skin, which seemed greatly to
excite their curiosity. In about an hour after our
arrival, the caboceer sent ten large calabashes of
ready-cooked proyisions for me to distribute
amongst my people, and a few minutes afterwards
the merchants brought me thirty-three more
dishes, holding about twenty English bushels,
with one live Guinea-fowl, a duck of the Mus-
covy breed, and several common fowls.

The merchants, six in number, upon presenting
me with the provisions, prostrated themselves,
the principal a little in advance of the others,
when after rubbing the upper parts of their naked
persons with the dust, or rather mud, they raised
themselves to their knees, upon which they re-
mained resting on their hams, the custom always
in addressing a superior. The principal or head
man, acting as a spokesman, expressed gra-
tification at having an opportunity of display-
ing their gratitude and good feeling towards
their King and his stranger, who had con-
descended to visit their country, and hoped that
this would not be the last opportunity which
would be aflForded them of testifying their good
feeling to an Englishman. They said that it was
owing to the skill and goodness of white men who

208 TRAVELS IN

brought white man's goods into their country,
that they were enabled to keep up a trade superior
to the kingdoms in the interior ; then after express-
ing a wish that I would soon again pay them
another visit, the head man begged that I would
do him the honour to enter their names in my
book. They were as follows ; —

Zisan. Degano. Doyou.

Bossou. Ossou. Bokaw.

The caboceer and merchants w.ere previously
made aware of our intention to visit their town,
and were therefore enabled to get food pre-
pared for us. A strong fire was kindled inside
my house, and my wet clothes hung round to dry
during the night. I have often been surprised at
their carelessness with respect to fire. During
the rainy season it is generally kindled inside
their huts, which even in the centre seldom exceed
eight feet in height, and though the thatch reaches
within three feet of the ground, yet accidents
seldom occur. It is true, they have generally
little to lose by fire, the extent of their furniture
being a stool or two, and a few earthen pots of
native manufacture, in which they cook their
food, and a few gourds or calabashes. The roof
alone can be destroyed, the walls being thick and
of clay, hardened by fire.

WESTERN AFRICA. 209

August 16th. — Early in the morning I was
visited by the caboceer Chaou, who according to
custom came to wish me good morning. He in-
troduced all his head men to me, explained the
nature of each of their offices. Soon afterwards,
a number of the caboceer's wives arrived, accom-
panied by double their own number of slaves
loaded with provisions, which were presented to
myself and people. As soon as this ceremony
was concluded, the person appointed to taste each
dish, as well as one of my own people, partook of
a small portion of each, to show us that there
was nothing poisonous contained in it. After
the several dishes were all distributed, Chaou, in
a whisper, begged the captain of my guard to ask
if I would condescend to enter his own name and
those of his head men in my book. Of course I
readily assented, and entered as follows : —

Chaou.*

Aladee.

Alee.

Adjutabellee.

Nah.

Atepwhahoo.

Douzougoukeny.

Dosoatimee.

Aflfleedaw.

Amouzoukpway.

Dojee.

Agasahogloo.

Bozou-nogoodithay.

Adjobolee.

Kadjo.

Annessou.

Awalla.

Kapo«

* Cftbocwr.

210 TRAVELS IN

CHAPTER IX.

Bater Loguohy in Regimeatala — Beceivcd by the Cabooeer,
attended by his Soldiers — Singular Mode of Dancing — Native
Jester— Description of the Town — Com Mills — Presents from
Fetish-women — Agriculture — Prevalent Diseases — A dis-
gusting Case of Leprosy — Quarrel among my Carriers — My
Illness — The Damadomy — Trees, Shrubs — The Agbado—
Rapid Construction of a Suspension Bridge by my Dahoman
Guards — Savalu — Beception by the Caboceer — Picturesque
Situation of the Town — Cabooeer's House — ^His Wives— His
Jester — My Illness.

Previous to my leaving Abomey for the Mahee
country, the King expressed a desire that I should
either enter the town, (where it might be arranged
for me to remain all night,) in regimentals ; or if
more convenient to me, dress in them on the fol-
lowing morning, and proceed a short distance out
of the town, going through a formal reception
by the caboceer and head men. Accordingly, it
was arranged that I should remain one day for
that purpose, and about ten o'clock, all being
ready, I, together with all my retinue, marched

out of the town to the distance of about half a
mile, in the same direction as we entered. We

WESTERN AFRICA. 2M

then countermarched, and were met by Chaou
and head men, with his guard of about eighty
soldiers, armed with muskets and short swords.
As they advanced, a constant fire was kept up
till within a few yards of us. Then both parties
halted; upon which the usual prostration and
palaver of welcome were as minutely observed as
if he had not before seen us. We afterwards
drank water with each other, and then rum of
a very indifferent quality. Both parties then
alternately went through their exercise of attack
and defence. Their mode of skirmishing is all by
stealth upon the enemy, and their chaige U a wild
disorderly rush, without any line being pre-
served. Each soldier upon his return brings with
him a tuft of grass, or a piece of a bough of some
description, to represent a head which he is sup-
posed to have just cut off.

We then advanced to the town, where we formed
up in the market-place. Here each party alter-
nately kept up what they called dancing, and
drinking rum and peto for about an hour. Their
motion in dancing is unlike that of any other
country with which I am acquainted. They
never use their legs, except when making some

212 TRAVELS IN

extraordinary leap to change their front in an-
other direction, their principal motion being in
the hips and shoulders, ivhich are thrown back-
wards and forwards in rapid motion; sometimes
their movements are, to any civilized being, of a
very disgusting nature.

During this ceremony the market-place was
crowded with spectators, who seemed quite de-
lighted with the performance. Each caboceer in-
variably keeps a clown, who is selected according
to his powers of humour, many of them displaying
considerable talent. At last a messenger came to
signify to Chaou that dinner was prepared for usj
when we retired to our houses, where we found
not only an extravagant quantity of provision,
supplied by the caboceer, but also by the same
merchants who had already been so liberaL We
were also supplied with a large quantity of peto.

After dinner I took a survey of the town,
which for regularity and neatness surpassed most
of those I had yet visited in the Mahee coun-
try. It is strongly fenced, has an inner wall,
and a large outer and inner market, well sup-
plied with native produce and manufactures.
Bats, mice, and the guano are also sold in

WESTERN AFRICA. 213

greater abundance for consumption than in any
other place I had seen. This was the first town
in which I observed any regularity or form of
manufactory.

In the principal square, which was entirely
occupied by the caboceer and retinue, nearly one
side was occupied by corn-mills, where a number
of very handsome young female slaves were em-
ployed grinding com. About two yards distant,
behind where the grinders were employed, was
a line of fires, parallel to the line of mills ; each
fire was attended by a cook and an assistant.
The whole was covered in with a roof neatly
thatched. The side of the building facing the
square was open like a shed.

During the greater part of the afternoon I was
beset with visitors, bringing some trifling articles
as presents, amongst whom were many fetish-
women, who brought me some eggs. These
women are licensed beggars, sanctioned by roy-
alty, and possess great influence amongst the
people. They attend all public markets, and are
entirely supported by contributions, which are
liberally bestowed from a dread of offending
them. The old caboceer, Chaou, paid me a visit.

I

I

214 TBAVEL8 IN

and eaxnestly inquired if I could prescribe any
medicine for a severe cough which much annoyed
him. He said that some of my soldiers told him
I could cure all diseases. I gave him a few colo-
cinth and calomel pills, knowing that he would
not feel satisfied without something in the shape
of medicine, — in return for which he gave me
a young bull.

The land here is well cultivated, and bears ex-
cellent crops near the town. The rocks are
of granite, and singularly twisted and stratified
horizontally, with scarcely any dip, in sections of
pure white, resembling alum.

Leprosy as well as small-pox appear to be the
most prevalent diseases here. The town of Loga-
zohy contains eight or nine thousand inhabitants.
The cattle are handsome and numerous, with the
exception of pigs, which had lately suffered much
from a disease resembling the small-pox. Very
few are now left in the country.

Towards the evening I felt a little feverish, pro-
bably from recent fatigue and sleeping in wet
clothes. I subsequently ordered a bason of gruel to
be prepared for me, and took a dose of James's
powder and some sedative of opium. Upon lying

WESTERN AFRICA. 215

down for the nighty my friend the captain of my
guard seemed much alarmed, for he saw that I was
ill. He was very anxious that I should not take
any medicine, lest it might kill me, but I assured
him that I took it for the purpose of getting
welL Being extremely ill, I had given orders not
to admit any strangers into my apartment, or even
into the yard, but one poor old woman, who had a
son suffering dreadfully from leprosy, managed to
gain admittance to me, bringing a present of two
fowls and some eggs. These, however, I declined
to accept, on account of her poverty, but assured
her that if she would bring her son to me, I would
give him some medicine ; and told the old dame
that white man came to her country to teach them
and do them good, and at the same time explained
to her that my reason for not accepting her
present, was not that I undervalued its pecuniary
worth, but from a conviction that she might sell
them in the market for her own benefit.

Upon this, the poor old woman prostrated
herself, and as usual covered herself with mud,
for the rain had been very heavy all the previous
day and night. She remained on her knees for
some time, singing an extemporary song in praise

I

216 TRAVELS m

of the King's stranger. She then departed to
bring her son, and in a short time returned with
the unfortunate object of her solicitude, who was
decidedly the most loathsome creature in human
form I ever beheld. He was apparently about

ff nineteen or twenty years of age, and was covered

with the loathsome disease from head to foot

) except those parts which were ulcerated, with a

dischai*ge chiefly from the arm-pits. The smell
was so intolerable that my servants retreated upon
his approach. He was reduced to a mere skeleton,
and yet the poor fellow appeared not to suffer
much pain, nor did any particular organ seem to
suffer more than another.

This case being beyond my skill, I could only
prescribe calomel pills, and a few doses of salts.
I also presented the mother with a few needles and
a thimble, for which she seemed truly grateftil,
pronouncing a blessing upon me as she departed*
At last I had an opportunity of lying down to rest.
Though suffering much from fever, I soon fell into
a confused sleep, from the powerful dose of opium
I had taken. Early in the morning I rose with a
view of getting the greater part of my journey
over before the .sun should reach the meridian, but

WESTERN AFRICA. 217

after breakfast, August 17tli, some of my men
begimiing to dispute about carrying the luggage as
previously arranged, I was compelled to use my
horsewhip. The excitement produced by this
disobedience suddenly threw me into a violent
chill, which commenced at the feet, and rapidly
rose upwards till it reached the pit of the stomach.
Then sickness and vomiting began, followed by
violent headach and giddiness.

This kind of attack is generally a prelude to
a very severe and dangerous fever. In a few
minutes after the chill reached my chest, I
reeled and fell prostrate; but when the violent
burning of the fever commenced, the giddiness
partly left me* I then took another strong dose of
opium and James's powder, and lay down for two
hours. I now found myself in a violent perspira-
tion, overcome by a sort of pleasing stupor. This
enabled me to bear up against the violence of the
fever*

I ordered my horse to be again got ready,
in defiance of the kind remonstrances of the
captain of my guard, and commenced my journey,
bearing magnetic W.N.W. At a short distance
from the town, we passed over marble rocks,

VOL. n. L

218 TRAVELS IN

beautifiilly twisted ; but, on entering the plain, we
agiun found the bed composed of fused iron ore,
with shea-butter and palm-trees, thinly spread
over it, and many other trees, the names and class
of the greater part of which were strange to me,
being unacquainted with botany.

At a short distance from the town of Logazohy,
we crossed a small stream of good water, about
three feet deep and eight feet wide, running east-
ward. This stream is named Damadomy. Afler
crossing it, I observed several large sycamore and
ash trees, exactly similar to those found in Eng-
lanc^ but of considerably larger growth^ and
the bark more rough and fractured. Here also
were numerous stunted shrubs, of a peculiar de-
scription, which are very seldom met with, except
in this neighbourhood, and occupy a belt of country
extending east and west. One of these plants or
shrubs is from four to six feet in height, with
numerous branches ; both trunk and branches are
very crooked, and contain but very few leaves.
The branches are nearly all of one thickness, from
the trunk to their top, which terminates abruptly.
The leaves are much smaller, but in shape re-
semble those of the laurel ; they are very fleshy,

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WESTERN AFRICA. 219

and of a pea-green colour. The bark is grey, and
also very fleshy; upon the whole this shrub has
the appearance of having been scorched and in a
state of recovery.

At twelve miles distant, to the southward,
I observed a range of mountains, forming an
arch of 90® S. and W. At eight miles further,
we arrived at the river Agbado, a rapid stream,
twenty yards wide, and only six feet deep, with
steep banks densely wooded, with very large trees,
and a thick underwood. The river nms N.E. at
this point, but soon changed its course. When we
reached it, we were much disappointed (at least
my guard pretended to be so) at not finding that
any arrangement had been made for our cross-
ing the river. This, they alleged, ought to have
been done by the caboceer of Savalu, distant only
two miles, whom we had purposely come to visit.
It appeared, however, that the notice he had re-
ceived of our intention to visit him was so short,
that he had scarcely any time to arrange himself
and his household.

My conviction was, that this apparent neglect
was the result of a preconcerted arrangement,
in order to give the Dahoman soldiers an op-

L 2

220 TRAVELS IN

portunlty of exhibiting their skill as engineers. I
proposed to swim my horse and self across^ but
this was opposed by the caboceer, on account of
the rapidity of the stream. Besides, how were
the officers' wives, who carried their baggage, and
also my own carriers, to get across ? For this
purpose I proposed rafts to be made from branches
of trees, cut into lengths and lashed together and
passed across by a rope, formed from the long
fibres which grow downwards from the branches
of the large trees on this bank, resembling
hundreds of ropes of various thickness. These
extraordinary fibres are sometimes thirty and forty
feet long, according to the height of the branches
from which they grow, and are extremely tough.
They are pliable and of great strength. When
they reach the ground, they insert themselves to
some depth, and again take root, from which other
trees spring upwards. They frequently form a
colonnade of considerable extent along the banks
of rivers, and resemble mangroves.

My proposition was not approved of, and a
council of officers being held, it was in a short
time determined to adopt rather a novel method,'
which it may be interesting to describe. As I have

WESTERN AFRICA. 221

already stated, large trees, of a species which I
have previously mentioned, grew on the banks on
either side of this river. A number of small trees
were cut, each of the private soldiers cutting with
his short sabre, or knife, till a sufficient number
were thus obtained. These poles newly cut were
tied to the long fibres hanging perpendicularly
from the branches of the larger trees, and were
then attached in succession, horizontally, till they
reached the hanging fibres of the trees on the
opposite bank.

After having fixed two lines of poles across, in
the manner I have described, about one yard
apart, short pieces of wood were cut and placed
across, and small boughs, and grass or reeds,
placed on the top, so that a suspension-bridge
was thus simply constructed in the short space of
half an hour. The whole party then passed over
in safety. I was informed, in reply to a question,
that this is by no means an invention of the
Dahomans, but has long been practised in Central
Africa, especially in time of war, and where the
rivers are not too wide. Floating bridges are
also constructed in a similar manner, where the
above method cannot be adopted.

222 TRAVELS IN

After croissing this river we entered the Annagoo
country. We halted a short time on the bank^
to give the caboceer of Savalu time to prepare
himself for our reception. A messenger now
arrived to say that he would shortly be ready
to receive us, I here changed my dress, and
substituted my military uniform. This caboceer
was described to be a man of great wealth and
power, and a great favourite with the King of
Dahomey. He is consequently allowed a consi-
derable degree of discretionary power beyond
that of any other chief, the caboceer of Whydah
excepted.

As soon as my rude toilet was finished, I
mounted as a Life Guardsman, but not quite so
neat as when on duty at Whitehall. After ad-
vancing about one mile towards the town, we were
met by the caboceer under some very large trees,
where was a cranery. This place was delightfully
shaded. Here the captain of my guard and myself
seated ourselves under one of the trees, till this
great personage made three times a procession in
a circle round us to the left, for it is considered
unlucky to form circle to the right. This cabo-
ceer appeared to consider himself much above

WESTERN AFRICA. 2£3

any other I had seen, either in the Mahee or
Dahoman kingdoms, now united. He would not
condescend to walk, but was carried round us in
his hammock. He then alighted, and his ham-
mock was carried suspended to a pole, each
end resting on the heads of two stout slaves, who
always proceeded at a trot He advanced towards
us on foot, after he had displayed to his own
satisfaction the richly ornamented hammock in
which he had been riding. He afterwards in-
formed me that, it was presented to him by the
King of Dahomey. He next went through the
usual ceremony of prostration, and rubbing him-
self with dust. He then delivered a long address
of welcome to the King's English stranger, finish-
ing his harangue by saying that I was like to a
man who had been many moons searching in the
bush for a large block of wood for his fire, and
had rejected many as being bad wood to bum,
but to his great satisfaction at last found a large
tree of a peculiar description, which burnt like
a lamp. He said, that I in like manner had
been travelling through the Mahee and FeUattah
countries, but during the whole of my long jour-
ney I had not seen any town so great or so

2i4 TRAVELS m

grand as the town of Savalu, which I was about
to enter.

The caboceer, whose name Is Bagadee, Is a
very fine stout handsome black, of very pleasing
expression and address, possessing great intelli-
gence; and having travelled a considerable dis-
tance in the neighbouring kingdoms, he has a
tolerable idea of the geography of the surround-
ing country. As we advanced towards the town,
which was certainly the most picturesque and
grand of any I had seen since leaving the country
of the Fellattahs, we ascended six platforms
in succession, of flights of steps naturally formed,
of a very peculiar sort of stone, resembling
petrified wood, and stratified perpendicularly.
These steps extend upwards of a mile in length,
and each platform is of nearly the same breadth,
preserving the same throughout ; so that an ob-
server could scarcely be convinced that they were
formed by Nature, were he not aware of the gene^
rally indolent character of the natives. These
platforms were about fifty yards in width, with
numerous little villages situated thereon, appa-
rently occupied by farmers, and here all the cattle
are kept, of which there are great numbers : goats

\

WESTERN AFRICA. 225

and sheep only are admitted in the town. The
mountain of Savalu^ from which the town takes
its name^ is beautifully wooded to the summit,
with bold projecting rocks or precipices at different
distances, showing their hoary crowns and angles,
forming a beautiful back-ground to the town,
which, independently of the neighbouring kroom,
is certainly larger than any town in the Mahee
country, and before it was ceded to the Dahomans
was always considered the capital or metropolis.
The houses are much larger generally, and built
with more taste and uniformity than any Mahee
town. The caboceer's house is two stories high,
and built on a platform directly overlooking the
market-place. His house and the market are
separated by a wall about ten or twelve feet high.
The windows or light-holes of the upper story are
considerably higher than the wall, so that the in-
mates, chiefly the caboceer's wives, can overlook the
whole of the market-place, and in fact the whole
town, being situated on the base of the mountain.
We remained in the market-place about an hour
and a half, drinking rum and peto, the soldiers of
each guard alternately dancing and keeping up an
irregular fire. During this time the caboceer's

L 3

226 TRAVELS TS

wiTes were stealing a peep through the windows,
but the moment they were observed withdrew.
Amongst the soldiers of Savalu^ I noticed the
jester very particularlji who certainly displayed
more wit and fun than clowns generally do> in en*
doavouring to fire off his musket, which several
times missed fire ; upon which he shook out the
whole of the priming, and spit into the pan, and
again snapped the piece as if expecting the ex-
plosion would fellow. He also performed several
other antics equally ridiculous. At last we were
allowed to retire to the quarters which had been
allotted to us. These were a considerable distance
from the principal market-place.

AVe passed through several minor markets on
our way to my quarters, then from one court-
yard to another, till we at last reached the house
appointed for us, which, according to my ideas, ill
corresponded with the description given by the
young caboceer of his town. The house was so
low in the doorway, that I was compelled to enter
on my hands and knees, and when I had passed
through a partition into the inner apartment, which
was as dark as a dungeon, I was obliged to burn a
light. I felt much annoyed at this, and refused

WEBTEBN AFRICA. 227

to remain there^ looking upon it as an insult.
Upon this circumstance being made known, several
of the trading merchants from Abomey kindly
proflPered me their houses, provided the caboceer
had no objections.

A messenger was consequently despatched to
communicate my dissatisfaction with my lodgings
to the caboceer, who appeared quite surprised,
and came back with my messenger to make personal
inquiry respecting it. Upon his inquiring why I
objected to the apartment, I told him my first im-
pression was that it must have have been u£sed as
a prison, on account of its strength and darkness,
being without any aperture to admit of light, ex-
cept the low doorway.

In explanation he informed me, that in his
country the greater part of the houses were
purposely so constructed, to prevent the inmates
from being seen by a passer-by, who might shoot
them with then- arrows, in time of war, which was
a common {»*actice ; and that this house had been
selected as a security against such an occurrence.
However, I chose the house of the merchant,
which was tolerably comfortable ; but felt rather
feverish, and had also a slight touch of ague. I

228 TRAVELS IN

found it necessary, therefore, to take more medi-
cine, which so much alarmed my caboceer, that he
refused all sorts of food whatever, complaining
bitterly of the advantage taken in stealing a march
upon him into the country of enemies, thereby
endangering his life as well as my own. He
declared his conviction, that I had contracted my
illness through excessive fatigue and exposure in
the Fellattah country. However, tw(^ doses of
James's powder and opium considerably subdued
my fever. Here we were, as usual, supplied with
large quantities of provision ready cooked, both by
the caboceer and merchants. Late in the evening
the caboceer again visited me, bringing with him
some rum as well as some cherry brandy, which
he proudly boasted had been sent him by the King
of Dahomey. After he had distributed these, I
gave him the contents of a flask of rum from my
own stores, a box of lucifer matches, and a large
Jew's harp, which seemed to afford him much
pleasure. At a late hour he and his headmen
retired to their homes, much to my satisfaction,
for I felt much in want of rest.

WESTEBN AFmCA. 229

CHAPTER X.

Importance of the Caboceer of Savala — Curiosity of the Natives—
State Constables— Military Dance— Introduction to the Fetish-
women — Manufactures — Crane-shooting — Present by Fetish-
women — Hospitality of the Caboceer — His Name and those of
his Head Men —Wild Grapes — The Zoka — Shrubs — Swim

. across the Zoka — Mode of Transporting my Luggage —
Difficulty in getting my Horse across — Fearlessness of the
Dahoman Female Carriers — Bad Boads — Jallakoo — Reception
by the Caboceer — My Illness — Appear in Regimentals before
the Caboceer — Concern evinced on account of my Illness —
Description of the Town — Agriculture — Caboceer's Name and
those of his Head Men — Presents to the Caboceer.

August 18th. — We were visited early by the
caboceer, who came to wish us good morning,
bringing with him another small flask of rum, with
which we drank each other's health. He seemed
very desirous to acquaint me with his wealth and
power, explaining that he held, imder the King of
Dahomey, a discretionary power superior to any
other caboceer, and also the government of several
neighbouring towns in the Mahee country, as well
as several large towns in his own country (Anna-

230 TRAYBLS IN

goo), which he assisted the Dahomans in subduing.
Savalu is the frontier town of the Annagoo
country, the natiyes of which are always con-
sidered a lawless, marauding people, and habi-
tuated to acts of extreme cruelty.

In a short time breakfast was brought ; after
partaking of which we were again invited to the
market-place, where many thousands, both old and
young, were assembled to see the white man. The
crowd was so great, that the ground-keepers were
entirely overpowered, although they used their
immense whips with great violence and dexterity.
It is a singular fact, that the state constables in
nearly all the large towns of the Dahoman, Mahee,
Fellattah, and Annagoo countries, are selected
from deformed persons. Many of them are armed
with a bullock's tail dried with the skin on, and
the long hair shaven off. This is a merciless
weapon when used with both hands, which is fre-
quently the case when authority is resisted. The
offending parties are compelled to kneel down,
and to place a hand on each knee, the body bending
forward towards the constable, who inflicts his blows
longitudinally on the back. This is a very severe
punishment, and is the mode adopted for minor

A.

WESTERN AFBICA. 231

offences through the whole Dahoman kingdom.
A dozen is the greatest number I ever knew in-
flicted at one time on the same person.

Some soldiers having been stationed to assist in
keeping the ground, something like order was
restored, and the amusements commenced by the
caboceer circling round in his hammock, as on the
previous afternoon. During this a continual firing
was kept up. He afterwards got out of his ham-
mock, and advanced within a few yards of me,
when, as usual, he went through the regular
forms of prostration. He then examined my
horse and trappings, apparently with great in-
terest. His soldiers and head men then com-
menced dancing ; and, as a matter of courtesy, my
caboceer condescended to dance with the same
party. Their music was rude, but not very un-
pleasant; they were wind instruments, sunilar to
the hautboy, accompanied with drums and cala-
bashes, or gourds, covered with net-work strung
with human teeth.

The fetish-women, who were at this period keep-
ing up their annual custom, which lasts during a
whole moon, were then introduced. They appeared

232 TRAVELS IX

to be the finest and handsomest women in the plaCe*
They were richly ornamented with coral and
brass bracelets or armlets^ apparently of Bomouese
manufacture. Each wore^ besides a country cloth,
a large silk handkerchief of European manufac-
ture. I could scarcely refrain from expressing
my regret at seeing them prostrate themselves,
and besmearing themselves with dirt, after the
pains which they had taken to appear so neat and
clean before this form of humiliation.

As soon as this ceremony was finished, the whole
party repeated a short prayer, after which they
commenced a dance by themselves, singing some
particular song, to which they kept time by clap-
ping their hands against those of their partner.
My own soldiers next commenced dancing, when
they were joined by the principal men of Savalu,
who considered themselves highly honoured by
being allowed to dance with my Dahoman soldiers.

After this sort of amusement had been con-
cluded, I presented both parties of soldiers with
some rum, and took a stroll round the town to
examine the markets, and observe their mode of
manufacture. This day, however, had been set

WESTERN, AFRICA. 235

apart by order of the caboceer as a holiday,
so that scarcely any thing was exposed for sale
in the market. However, I had an opportunity
of seeing the blacksmith and weaver at work.
The weavers here use a more perfect loom than
the Fellattahs, and are also much superior to any
I observed in the Mahee country. At Savalu they
weave a sort of webbing similar to some of the
fine silk webbing used for gentlemen's braces;
but, upon a close inspection, I found that several
of the principal weavers used European manufac-
tured thread, both silk and cotton.

In the whole of the countries I have visited,
either on the coast, or in the interior, they have
no other method of spinning than by the ancient
distaff. I have often wondered at this, for their
looms are exactly on the same principle as those
of Europe. They knit nightcaps in great
quantities here; and during my stay at Baffo
a man knitted me a pair of socks, from a pair I
lent him as a pattern. These are still in my pos-
session.

I asked permission to shoot some cranes in the
cranery we passed yesterday, but the caboceer would
only allow me to shoot the grey ones. The white

(

234 TRAVELS IN

craneSy he said, were the fetish-men to the grey
ones. The caboceer accompanied me, and seemed
much surprised at my killing one with so small a
gun on the top of so high a tree, particularly as
he had never seen small shot used before. Th<^y
generally use iron bullets, rudely forged. I
offered to shoot one with a gun belonging to the
principal warrior of my guard, but this he peremp-
torily refused, declaring '* that if white man fired
out of his gun, black man can never again kill
any thing with the same piece." To convince him
of his error, I offered to let him have a shot with
mine, but even this he declined. I afterwards
learnt that they will not even allow their own
comrades to fire out of their guns.

Upon my return home I found my court-yard
covered with dishes of provision, smoking hot,
the merchants as well as the caboceer having sent
numerous dishes, as well as plenty of peto for my
people to drink. Soon after we had finished our
meal, we were beset with fetish-women, bringing
small presents, received by them as tithes, on the
last market-day. Tithes are actually customary
to fetish- women even in Abomey. Although their
present be ever so trifling, the acceptor is con-

— 1

WESTERN AFRICA. 23o

sidered as under a religious obligation to make a
return of tenfold yalue.

One yery fine old fetish-woman, accompanied
by her two daughters, presented me with some
eggs, which she brought me on a soup plate of
English manufacture, for which I gaye in return
needles and thimbles. With these they seemed
much pleased, but unfortunately on their way
home they dropped the plate and broke it into
several pieces. The young ladies returned crying
bitterly, earnestly entreating me to mend it, and
seemed still more grieyed when I told them that
it was beyond my skilL To console them, how-
ever, I told them that I would certainly send
them one from Whydah by the Abomey mes-
senger, who would forward it to Sayalu by the
traders. This promise I fulfilled.

Late in the evening the caboceer again visited
me, when I presented him with a few ornamental
trinkets, as well as a knife and a pair of scissors.
With these he seemed pleased. I also presented
his head men, and the Abomey merchants who had
treated us so kindly, with some trifling articles.
In return, they presented me with a live goat and
8ome fowls.

236 TRAVELS IK

August 19tli* — ^Earlj in the morning I was
Tisited bj the caboceer ^ who came to pay his morn-
ing visit. The night had been very wet, and I was
still suffering a little from fever; however, I was
determined to proceed on my journey- We were
ftumished with a good breakfast^ of which I
partook a little. I had now become quite the
African in my diet, which agreed with me very
well, and I would recommend all travellers to
adopt the same plan. When my party were
announced to be all ready for the march, we were
conducted through the principal market-place,
where we found a fine young bull tied to one of
the trees. The gay youug caboceer here prostrated
himself, *and after the usual rubbing with dirt,
presented me with this bull, which he sent to
Abomey by carriers.

During my stay at Savalu the caboceer supplied
me with seventy-seven large calabashes of ready-
cooked provision, besides plenty of fruit, the
principal of which, in use at this season, were
the gwaba, pine-apple, oranges, popans, mangoes,
and the kidney cachu. The caboceer, before
leaving his town, begged me to do him the
honour to insert his own and the name of his

WESTERN AFRICA.

237

head men iri my book. I here give them, for
they tend to show the names peculiar to different
countries : —

Caboceer . •

• . Bagadee.

Head men . .

. . Agbuzzee.

KootAkoo.

Vangh.

Naghwoolyaemadah.

Kogilee,

Dissou.

Lyhoo.

Kaghohennah.

Bosson,

Agyddymoosee.

Gbazoo.

Agbadyea.

Oona.

Kpwaghooda.

Atholoo.

Agoyae.

Mirahoo.

Daffo.

ModjekoBsee.

Bozavee.

Azamodoko.

Kucyo.

Jayaloogo.

Eoko.

Kudjo 2d.

Attlah.

Akyea.

Athaly.

Jagadidjee.

Dakphway.

Yakadya.

Boka.

Oaboceer^B Head wife

.... Selam

The thermometer now ranged from 80o to 73° of
Fahrenheit.

It may be well to observe here, that the name
of Kudjo is not peculiar to this country, but rather
to the Gold Coast, and is only given to those who
are bom on particular days.

After finishing the above ceremony, we marched

238 TRAVELS IN

on our journey, bearingW.S.W., crossing the range
of Savalu Mountains. The grass, which was very
long (being nearly six feet), and hangmg across
the path, quite wet from the previous night's rain,
soon drenched us as much as a heavy rain would

» ■ • ■

have done, but the sun very soon dried all of us,
and perspiration succeeded. At two miles we
reached a fine open plain studded with shea
butter-trees, now ripe ; their fruit was lying in
large quantities under the trees.

The direction of the path now changed more
southward. Here we passed numbers of ash-
trees not different from that of Great Britain,
except that they had a rougher bark, with deeper
fracture. Journeying a few miles farther, we
passed through some thick bush, where we found
large quantities of wild grapes hanging in bunches
over the path ; the vine clinging to various trees,
and running from one to another. This grape
was of the green tribe, very similar to those which
ornament the walls of our cottages in England,
but the bunches were not so compact. At eight
miles, we crossed the River Zoka, running S.E.
with a rapid stream, on account of its being the
rainy season. At nine miles we crossed another

WESTERN AFRICA. 23S

brook, with excellent water, running in nearly the
same direction.

At fourteen miles, we passed some curious
shrubs of the same description as I observed in the
Fellattah country ; although in full vegetation, the
leaves were coloured and marked like the feathers
of a partridge. There is here also a great variety
of the aloe tribe, some of which I found to change
their colour and marks by transplanting to a
different soil. The wild gwaba is very abundant
here, and much larger than in the neighbourhood
of Cape Coast. The yellow fig also abounds here
as well as the kolla-nut.

At fifteen miles, we again crossed the river
Zoka, which at this place runs S. W., twenty yards
wide, with rocky bottom. Here we were detained
upwards of two hours, in endeavouring to obtain
a canoe, but as they are generally kept at a great
distance from the paths, it takes several hours to
bring them to the place of crossing. In this
instance, however, we were totally defeated, for
my messengers returned with tidings that the
canoe was broken, so that we had no other method
of getting across except by swimming. The
stream at this place was very rapid, consequently

240 TKATBLg

I deemed it fnudent, not to swim wooes on horse-
back, but put on my life-preserrer (an AmericaD
one). Unfortunately it burst, and was of no use
to me, but rather entangled me ; and I was conse^
quently carried a considerable distance obliquely
down the stream* Howeyer, I lapded safely on
some rocks on the opposite mde, but in doing so
struck my knee against a rock, cutting a portion
of skin off as well as bruising it.

My next object was to get my luggage across,
now much diminished both in bulk and weight. I
caused some poles, which were growing in abun-
dance on the banks, to be cut into lengths and
lashed together, in the form of a raft. In a piece
of rag torn from the flap of my linen, I tied two
bullets, attaching them to the end of a ball ol
sewing twine, which was loosely placed in a
coil to prevent its getting entangled. The two
bullets were then attached to a stouter piece
of string, about one yard in length, used to
sling them across the river. After the bullets
were thrown across I pulled the twine over, to
which a line of about the substance of a clothes'
line was fixed, the other end of which was fastened
to the raft. This was placed on the water axon-

WESTERN AFRICA. 241

- siderable distance above the landing-place, so as to
- , allow for the current. Two boxes were placed on
. the raft, and when ready I pulled them across. This

- method was repeated until the whole of my luggage,
as well as that of jny oflScers, was safely landed.

By this time the greater part of my people had

swam across also, but my horse still remained

i It was also fastened to the end of the raft line

' and soon crossed the stream, but when it reached

the opposite bank, which was nearly perpendicular

and the water deep, the poor animal could not

obtain a footing. A number of people pulled it by

the halter, till the headstall gave way. The poor

beast, already considerably exhausted from exer-

, tion, now made again for the other side, where it

narrowly escaped being carried over a cataract

formed of rocks a little below the place of crossing.

To my great satisfaction, however, the noble little

animal arrived safely on the opposite bank, shook

itself, and neighed, looking across as if conscious

of its being on the wrong side. The little fellow

was again haltered with stronger material, and was

launched into the river.

I now placed myself at a part of the bank close
to a small creek, where it reached me without

VOL. n. M

242 TRAVELS IN

difficulty^ being lower down the stream. I at
once saddled him, and resumed our journey.

I ought to have mentioned the gallant manner
in which my caboceer and head men's wives took
the water. They did not even require the raft to
carry their luggage across, the whole of which was
contained in large gourd calabashes, about two
feet and a half diameter. These vessels were
guided across with one hand, while the other was
used in swimming. Immediately after crossing
the river, it commenced raining very heavily, and
continued to do so for several hours.

The TO§A was now extremely rough and bad,
and the path so narrow and worn by the heavy
rains washing away the soil and leaving the rough
iron-stone and large roots crossing at short dis-
tances, as to render the march extremely fatiguing.
Many of my poor fellows had their feet sadly
bruised and cut. Having had several attacks of
fever, I found myself considerably weaker within
the last few days, and the wound on my leg daily
enlarged and got in a very bad state. Being
compelled to walk during the greater part of
the latter end of this day, I felt more fatigued
than I had ever done during the whole of my

WESTBUK AFRICA. 243

loi^ journey, though many of them had been
much longer. We crossed several glens and
brooks, with very steep rocky banks, which no
English horse would have even attempted, but
so sure-footed are iJiese Badagry horses, that
the little fellow scrambled over all without any
serious accident. In one instance, while climb-
ing a smooth-surfaced granite rock, it slipped
from neariy the top to the bottom, where it
crushed one of the holsters and broke a girt4i,
but it remained uninjured; however, it courag-
eously made a second attempt, in which it suc-
ceeded.

Owing to the road being so bad, we could
make but slow progress; we were consequently
benighted, and from the cloudy atmosphere the
night was extremely dark. At last I became
reckless, and blundered along with little or no
caution, over rocks, through water, and over large
roots, till about ten o'clock, when we came in sight
of the lights of the town of Jallakoo. We had
only made twenty-four miles during the whole of
this long day. JaUakoo^ like Savalu, was without
walls or any fence.

After crossing the Savalu mountains, I was again

M 2

244 TRAVELS IN

in the original kingdom of Dahomey, Jallakoo
being the first Dahoman town in that direction.
We were met at the entrance in the principal
market-place by the old caboceer and his deputy
who transacted all his official affairs. The ca-
boceer was apparently upwards of ninety years
of age. This venerable patriarch was deter-
mined to receive me with all the usual forma-
lity, and I was consequently (although I felt
completely exhausted, as well as all my people)
requested to dress myself in my uniform, and so
enter the town. Fortunately, my appointments
(epaulets and helmet) were tolerably clean, and
had a very good effect by torch-light. Their
torches are made of a very peculiar sort of wood,
which when split into strips bums very brightly.
These are sometimes smeared with the shea-
butter.

After entering the town, we were conducted to
an inner market-place, where we again halted to
go through all the tedious ceremony of a Daho-
man reception. This I could very willingly have
dispensed with, for I now began to feel very un-
comfortable, my under-clothing being completely
saturated with the heavy rain of the afternoon.

WESTEBN AFRICA. 245

which had now ceased. I also felt very sensibly
an inclination to ague, which was considerably
advanced by being put into a new house, the
walls and thatch of which were quite green and
open on three sides, which were merely borne on
wooden pillars, for they had been informed that
I did not like close or dark lodgings. I put up
the little tent which I had constructed inside of the
house; and a bedstead of bamboo with a rush mat-
tress, which made an excellent bed, having been
prepared for me, I was placed inside of it, and a
strong fire immediately kindled close to me. I
then ordered some gruel to be made of native meal,
with which I took a strong dose of James's powder
and opium, and in a short time the ague ceased,
but was immediately followed by a burning fever
with intolerable thirst. I drank about half a pint
of water every five minutes, till at last the perspi-
ration became so copious, that I felt almost as
wet as when in the rain. After this, I felt muck
easier, and through the powerful influence of
the opimn I passed a night of pleasant and
happy dreams, which, on awaking, I sincerely re-
gretted I could not realize. The caboceer, how-
ever, declared his night had been anything but

246 TRAVELS IN

comfortable or refreshing, for he said I had been
groaning and talking nearly the whole of it»
which had much alarmed him. I felt so consider-
ably weakened from the violence of the attadt,
and from such copious perspiration^ and the sta-
pifying effects of the opium, that I was scarcely
able to stand on my legs. I rallied, however, and
determined to resist as much as possible the
powerful influence of the fever, and with a little
assistance I walked a few times round the yard,
in the centre of which was a fine large spring
well, in the solid rock, with excellent water. Of
this I took a copious draught, which considerably
refreshed me.

In a short time the aged caboceer, Nokoomakay,
sent twenty large calabashes, filled with provision,
ready cooked for our breakfast ; and immediately
afterwards his deputy, Adyamee, sent me thirty-
two more dishes. They both expressed regret that
I should suffer from sickness while in their country,
but assured me that nothing should be wanting on
the part of their fetish-men and women in making
intercession with the great Fetish for my imme-
diate recovery, and also expressed their readiness
to supply me with any thing necessary for my

WE8TEBN AFRICA. 24?

comfort After this they retired till we should
finish our breakfast, when the deputy caboceer
again paid me a visit; and though they both
knew I was so ill, begged that I would favour
them With a visit to the old man's house in my
r^mentals and on horseback. Upon remon-
strating, I found that my refusal was likely to
create dissatisfaction, especially as his messenger
arrived to inform me that at a council of fetish-
mto they had come to the concluedon that I
should speedily recover from my present indispo-
sition.

As soon as possible I prepared mjself, and
proceeded to the court-yard of the old caboceer,
which was at some distance off. Having a great
many very low doorways to pass through, I was
nearly bent double. My horse also with difficulty
passed through without his saddle, consequently I
was prevented mounting until I arrived at the
caboceer's yard. Here I found the venerable
chief seated under the shade of a large cabbage-
tree, in readiness to receive us. Upon entering
the court-yard, I found all his wives and slaves on
their knees, with their hands together and in
front of their faces, as if in the attitude of prayer.

248 TRAVELS IN

Upon a given signal, they all clapped their hands
three times, then a short pause ensued, and the
same clapping of hands was repeated twice
more. This is a mode of salutation in Why-
dah to a superior, as also as in all the Daho-
man kingdom, as well as shaking hands, and
the cracking of the two second fingers of each
hand, joined, in the same manner as cracking the
thumb and finger. The old man seemed much
interested in seeing my horse saddled, and also
with my arms, and the manner of placing them
on the saddle to carry them. He next put a
great many questions to me respecting white
man's country, and seemed much astonished at my
answers.

The town of Jallakoo is situated on a flat-
surfaced rock, at the base of a mountain, from
which the town takes its name. This is the
most picturesque of all the mountains I have
yet seen in the Mahee or Dahoman kingdom.
One part of it is formed by the largest blocks
of granite I ever saw, placed irregularly upon
each other: in some respects their position was
not unlike Stonehenge. Large cotton-trees in
many instances grew between these immense

WESTERN AFRICA. 249

rocks, which support the upper or horizontal ones.
In fact, I have never seen any thing so grand and so
picturesque as the mountain of Jallakoo. It is also
the last we touch upon on our return to Abomey.
Here I made particular inquiry respecting their
mode of agriculture, and the sort of grain princi-
pally used, as well as what was the most profit-
able, and its time of ripening. Guinea corn is
much used here, as well as several sorts of maize
and rice. I was informed that in this country the
Guinea com requires nearly seven moons to ripen,
rice five, and maize between four and five months,
though at Setta and Paweea I found a smaller
sort of Indian com, which ripens in two and a
half and three moons, and also another sort which
ripens in four moons. They never consider the
utility of selecting any particular sort of seed;
but after my return to Abomey, the King, who
is a great agriculturist, informed me that the
latest corn known will, if planted in the proper
season, ripen in less than four moons, and also
told me that the time of ripening had in many
instances been mistaken, from a want of know-
ledge, and planting the com too soon before the
rainy season.

M 3

250 TRAVBLS IN

We were supplied with plenty of peto during
our pjJaver. Here were several beautifiil crown-
biids walking about the market-place quite tame.
The old caboceer expressed great anxiety to have
the names of himself and head men, as well as his
principal wive's name, recorded in my book ; and I
here give them according to my promise, as
follows: —

First Caboceer . .

. NakooBiakay.

Wife*8 name . . . Agbally.

Second Caboceer . . Adyamee.

Wife's name .... Whendie.

Head men.

Tetay»

Dakay.

Atakpa.

Ozee.

Bosou.*

Mokosa.

Kndjo,*

Wzoto.

Adamazo.

Tootee.

Chigyea,

Takpwadda.

After this ceremony I was allowed to depart to
my own quarters, where I changed my dress, but
had scarcely finished when I was besieged by
visitors from all parts of the town, as well as tihe
ne^hbouring villages, many of whom brought

^ Tbe names Tetay, Bosou, and Kudjo, are all common aloi^^
the coast from Wbydah to Cape Coast, and are given from the
days of the week on which they are bom.

WESTERN AFRICA. 251

me provisions ready cooked, and several live
animals. One rich merchant, named Sisinau,
brought me thirty-two large calabashes of pro-
vision, as well as plenty of peto. Many of the
fetish-men and women brought me gruels of various
compositions, all of which were very palatable,
being generally sweetened with wild honey, which
is very abundant in the whole of the country
traversed in this direction.

In the evening I was again visited by the two
caboceers, whom I treated with a flask of rum to
distribute amongst his head men. I also gave him
a piece of romall (cloth), which I invariably gave
the caboceers in whose towns I lodged, as well as
some Jew's harps, and two knives, with some
papers of needles and a few thimbles, which were
much prized. I then signified my intention to
proceed on my journey early next morning, when
the old man pressed me much to stop another day.
This I certainly would have done, had I not been
afraid of being more seriously attacked by fever
and ague, as my quarters were very pleasant, and
the people extremely kind. A great many visitors
came with small presents during the remainder of
the evening to inquire after my health, as well

252 TRATELB IN

as for the purpose of seeing white man, to all of
whom I gave some trifling article in return. The
thermometer ranged at Jallakoo from 7V to 80*,
Fahrenheit, which, it will be observed, is much
colder than on the coast in the coldest season.

WESTEBN AFRICA. 253

CHAPTER XI.

My continued Illness — The Koffo — The Langhbo — Bivouac —
Keep Sentinel — Shea-butter Trees — Springs impregnated with
Iron — Gijah — Poverty of the Caboceer — Hospitality of Atihoh,
the Merchant — Doko— Met by the Avoga of Whydah— Eti-
quette with regard to the Time of entering a Town — Enter
Abomey — My Servant Maurice takes to his Bed — Sudden
Change in the Temperature — Visit to the King— His grati-
fication at my safe Return — My Conversation with his Ma-
jesty — ^His Views with regard to the Slave Trade— His desire
to cede Whydah to the English Qovemment — Dictates a
Letter to me to that eifect — His Costly Tobes — Singular Piece
of Patch-Work.

August 2 1st, — ^Early in the morning I got up
to prepare for the march^ but although the attack
of ague had been lighter than on the previous
night, I still felt extremely weak and in low
spirits. To remedy this, I again resorted to
another dose of sedative of opium, wluch in a
short time operated effectually. The caboceers and
a great part of the population accompanied me
some distance out of the town, during which the
Jallakoo soldiers kept up a constant but irregular
fire of musketry. The old man then shook hands,
expressing every good wish for my future success,
hoping that I should soon return to his country

2o4 TEAVBUB IN

again, that he might see me once more before he
should die. This solemn expression made for a
time a deep impression on my mind. Though in
a comparatiyely savage state this venerable patri-
arch was conscious that the hand of death would
soon be upon him.

Our bearing was now SS.W. and the plain
thicklj wooded with shea-butter and other trees.
The road was extremely bad, with rocks resembling
petrified wood of very fine grain with iron-stone
rock. The grass was eight feet long and resembled
reeds. At ten miles and a half we crossed the
river Koffo, running NN.E. and at seventeen
and a half we crossed the river Langhbo, runniDg
eastward. Being much fatigued, and still suffer-
ing from fever, and no town or village near, we
resolved to encamp on the plain, near this river,
where we were sure of obtaining water. The
grass being extremely long, we were obliged to
cut it down, wherever a party of ten or a dozen
men selected a place to lie down. Watch fires
were also kindled around the camp, and fortu-
nately, from the ample means aiSbrded at Jallakoo,
we were pretty well stocked with provisions for
one night at least.

This place not being far distant from the

WESTERN AFRICA. 255

Annagoo country, which people in former times
had frequently sent kidnapping parties stealthily
into the outskirts of the Dafaoman kingdom, it
was considered necessary to keep sentinels and
outposts during the night. Every man also ex-
lunined his piece to ascertain if the priming were
good. I also examined the caps of my own piece,
but this seemed the reverse of satisfactory.

The caboceer asked me if I was afraid to trust
myself with him, assuring me that my guard,
he knew> would perish to a man before they
would allow me to be molested. I admitted his
assertion, but reminded him that it was always
prudent to be, as far as possible, prepared for the
worst. Still he assured me that his men were
quite sufficient for our protection. . My cook
immediately commenced preparing my supper of
boiled fowls and rice, with a few shalots, which
made an agreeable soup. This, sdthough suffer*
ing much from fever, I relished much. I then
took another dose of opium, and soon under its
powerful influence fell fast asleep.

August 22d. — Early in the morning we again
prepared for the march. Several of my men felt
the efiects of sleeping on the wet ground. I also

256 TEA^YELS IN

for a time felt a cold, shiveriiig sensation, but
before mounting my horse, I took some James's
powder, and, as soon as the sun arose, I got into a
copious perspiration, which considerably relieved
me. Our bearing was now SS.E. ; the plain
stiU studded with shea butter-trees and small
shrubs; the road still bad, and worn very deep^
like narrow sheep-tracks.

Alter marching for twelve miles very rapidly
among small rocks, and across several deeply sunken
streams, we passed a great number of shea butter-
trees, which had been lately scorched to destroy
the fruit. Here we found several excellent springs,
impregnated with iron, strongly carbonized, of
which I took a copious draught, which proved
very refreshing to me. The road now began to
improve, the surface changing into clay and sand
of a drab colour. The stream, for the distance of
two miles, ran along the path, which formed a
channeL This gave my poor fellows an opportunity
of cooling their feet, now much cut and bruised
from the bad roads. I halted here for nearly an
hour to give them an opportunity of refreshing
themselves, and filling their calabashes with this
water, which was much superior to that which we

WE8TEBN AFRICA. 257

were carrying. During the whole of this time,
many of my men remained standing in the water.

At twenty miles we arrived at the town of
Gijah, which is a fine open town of consider-
able size. The caboceer, though represented
to be a very good and generous character, was
extremely poor, consequently, after calling upon
him, and the usual forms of reception had been
observed, we accepted the kind invitation of a
wealthy merchant named Atihoh, who entertained
us in a most courteous manner, and in less than
an hour supplied us with abundance of provisions
ready cooked, with a calabash filled with the
finest gwabias I ever saw, and plenty of very
good peto. During the evening the caboceer,
Agballah, and his head men, sent me ten large
calabashes filled with provision. He did not visit
me till I sent for him, assigning as a reason that
he was ashamed of his poverty.

The poor old man seemed much pleased when
I assured him that I was as glad to see him, as
if he had been the richest caboceer in the Daho-
man kingdom. He replied, "White man must be
good man, for black man don't want to see poor
caboceer." I presented him with a piece of cloth

258 TRAVELS IN

and some little articles of hardware, which ap-
peared to give him great satisfaction. I also gave
each of his head men some trifling presents.

They were conscious of their master's poverty,
but seemed anxious to assist him as much as
possible, for they sent me, in the caboceer's name,
twenty-three very large calabashes, filled with
provision; so that with several smaller presents
from some of the principal inhabitants, myself and
people were amply supplied with every thing neces-
sary. During the evening we were visited by great
numbers of the inhabitants, who seemed much grati-
fied with an opportunity of seeing a white man.

August 23d. — ^Early in the morning my host
paid me the usual morning visit, bringing me a
few choice dishes for my own breakfast, and also
a present of one goat, several fowls, one large
African duck, and a number of rare pigeons with
feathered legs and toes, and ten large dishes of
provision for my soldiers. Soon after breakfast
we marched f6r Doko, accompanied for a short
distance by the caboceer and head-men, attended
by about twenty of his soldiers, who kept up
an irregular firing of muskets as far as they
accompanied us.

WESTERN AFRICA. 259

After leaving the town the durtance of three

miles, the road again became very bad, and my

little horse lo^t one of its shoes, and soon began to

show its loss. However, this day's journey was a

very short one, and we marched at a very rapid

rate, which, in short journeys, we always found

less fatiguing than marching at a slow rate>

ani} remaining long on foot, exposed to the sun«

At twelve miles we arrived at Doko, where we

were met by the caboceer and his elder brother,

the caboceer of Whydah, who had remained at

Abomey ever since I had left that capital for Ihe

Mahee and Fellattah country. He had been sent

this stage to meet me by order of his Majesty.

The caboceer of Whydah is called the avoga,
dr captain, caboceer of white men, which accounts
for his being sent instead of Mayho, to meet me.
He being an excellent fellow, I felt much gratifi-
cation in thus unexpectedly meeting him. Awas-
soo, the caboceer of Doko, having already been
acquainted with my intended visit, had prepared
dinner for myself and party, which consisted of
twenty-two large dishes of provision. The avoga
had also brought with him plenty of liquors of
difierent descriptions, which were very freely
distributed among the people. I was now con-^

260 TBATELS IN

siderably recovered from the effects of my fever,
flo that I could take part in their merriment and
jest. My guard were now near home, and,
although two days before, the poor fellows were
worn out with fatigue and foot-sore, they were
now all life and jollity over their peto-pots, in
which they indulged very freely. Merriment w^as
kept up tUl a late hour, and this being a si^all
town, nearly the whole of the inhabitants came to
bid us welcome.

Aug. 24th. — About sunrise we began to prepare
for marching, but as our journey was a very short
one, we remained several hours longer, so that we
might arrive at Abomey about mid-day. It is
a custom in Dahomey for all strangers of note
visiting that capital to enter the town when
the sun is at its meridian. This is considered to
be a necessary observance for all distinguished
visitors.

Upon entering the outer gates of Abomey, we
were met by Mayho, and several distinguished
members of his Majesty's household, with an ad-
ditional band of music, which played till my arrival
at my old quarters. Upon entering, I must confess I
felt great satisfaction, and a feeling of gratitude to
the Great Buler of all things flashed over my

WESTERN AFRICA. 261

mind. My first inquiry was, whether my white
servant, Maurice, whom I sent back from Baffo,
was still alive, not finding him in the apartment
formerly occupied by him. I was told he was
still alive, and until he heard the sound of the
drums announcing my return was walking about
occasionally, and giving directions respecting his
cooking; Mayho having appointed a cook and
other attendants to wait on him. But on our
entering the gates he took to his bed, and never
again seemed to rally. I visited him immediately,
but found him much reduced. He told me that
every attention had been paid to him, and that the
King had appointed a native doctor to attend him,
but he was now suffering from dysentery and quite
exhausted.

I used the prescribed remedies as far as my
means extended, but having no European pro-
vision, I was compelled to do the best I could
with him upon native diet. I had great difficulty
in convincing him of my forgiveness for his con-
duct, which I have already mentioned. He fan-
cied that my intention was upon my return to the
coast to deliver him up to the authorities for
punishment ; and I cannot help thinking that in

262 TRAVELS IN

gpite of mj assurance to the ccmtrar^, the poor
fellow would never believe that I should not
do so.

Aug. 25th. — The weather now suddenly became
alarmingly cold for an African climate. This was
accompanied with heavy rains. During the night
the thermometer fell to 70% and at noon on the
following day did not rise higher than 77° Fahren-
heit. In the night many of my people caught
cold, as well as myself. My poor servant Maurice
was still extremely I0W5 and without any hopes of
recovery. I ordered some warm water and soap to
be brought to me, and with my sponge I washed the
whole of his person. At the same time I changed
the whole of his clothes and had them waefaed.

The King now sent for me to the palace, where
he received me with every mark of kindness and
respect; and after shaking me heartily by the haud,
immediately proposed the health of the Queen of
England and all the royal family. In return^ of
course, I proposed the health of himself. M! y
own health was next drank, after which the King
gave me a familiar slap on the back with his open
hand, saying, "White man don't know proper fear,
nor take proper care. In black man's country," he

WESTERN AFBICA. 263

eaidj '* 1 make him much fear^ when he hear I go
into far country beyond Mahee," meaning the Fel-
lattah country. This was conveyed to me by my
own interpreter. He asked me, what the Queen
of England would say if I had been killed, when
in his care or under his protection. He added,
that all white men would say, his own people had
killed me, and that would bring shame upon his
head.

He, however, expressed his great satisfaction at
my safe return, and put a thousand questions to
me respecting the Fellattah country, and whether
they mentioned his name there, together with
numerous questions respecting their soldiers. He
next spoke .upon the Slave Trade, and asked if I
could not make intercession with Her Majesty of
England to send an order to our men-of-war not
to take any slave ships till they had entirely left
the coast. I told him that it would be more for
his advantage that the slaves should be captured
by English men-of-war, as a greater number
would be required to fill their places.

His reply was very different to what I had ex-
pected. He explained, that although he supposed
many white men believed he sold the greater part
of the slaves sent from that country, he could

264 TRAVELS IN

assure me it was not the case ; but the caboceers,
whose soldiers captured them^ were always con-
sidered to be the owners of slaves taken in war,
when the enemy were the aggressors, with the
exception of those who were considered unfit for
the market. These latter were considered to be his
(the King's) property, and were sent to the diflPerent
palaces to assist in the duties of those establish-
ments ; but he admitted that all prisoners taken
by his wives, or female soldiers, were his property,
and that the caboceers always pay a nominal duty
upon all slaves taken in war when sold. From
various inquiries I was informed that by far the
greater number of slaves transported from this
country are either the property of those on whose
establishments they are bred, or are purchased
from the parents who are free ; though at the
decease of any caboceer, the whole of his property
is considered as belonging to the King. Xhe
present King, however, seldom exercises his
authority on these occasions.

They asked the reason why Englishmen had
abandoned the Slave-Trade, and how we obtained
people to perform labour. I told him that English-
men were now disgusted with the conduct of their
forefathers in making a property of the poor black

WESTERN Ai'RICA. 266

man^ who, because he was uneducated, was sold
like sheep, and sent to a far country, and there
compelled to labour for the remainder of his life
in bondage; that Englishmen had paid an enormous
sum of money for the liberation of their slaves, and
were determined that the black man should be
considered on an equality with a white man, and
were endeavouring to teach them "sense," the
term he used for education. He had reminded me,
that he had sent some boys and girls to the Mis-
sion-school at Cape Coast to learn senses like white
men, saying that he could (when they returned)
communicate directly with the English governor
at Cape Coast without sending his messages
through the Spanish or Portuguese^

To the next question, I replied, we could get
plenty of labourers to work voluntarily, by paying
them sufficient to keep them in food and clothing ;
but he declared that unless a slave, black man
would never do any work except on his own plant-
ation. However, he expressed his high opinion of
Englishmen for condescending to put themselves
upon the same level as black men, at the same
time remarking that it was no wonder his father
always taught him to respect an Englishman.

VOL. II. JN

266 TRAVELS IN

He admitted our principles to be very humane
and justy but remarked, that it would be difficult
to abolish slave-holding in his country, as the
children of all slaves were the property of the
owner of the parent, and were treated as one of
his own family ; and that if a king were to inter-
fere and abolish this law, it would cause a revo-
lution in the kingdom, as it would affect all his
head men and half heads, besides rendering those
domestic slaves homeless and destitute.

I told him it was not domestic slavery that we
so much objected to, as the forcing them from their
homes and kindred, separating them for ever from
all relatives, and dooming them to incessant labour
all their lives. He asked me whether, when pa-
rents voluntarily sold their children, they would
then feel any regret. I replied, if the parents did
not, they were unnatural, and I was sure that the
children would; and to illustrate this, I pointed
out a she-goat with two kids, and asked him if one
were taken away, whether the young would not
show symptoms of regret as well as the mother.
At this he laughed heartily, but remarked, that
the he-goat, the father of the kids referred to,
would feel quite indifferent. I could not help
smiling in return.

1

WESTERN AFRICA. 267

The King touched his forehead with his fingers,
saying, Englishman was wonderful and good man.
He then declared that for his own part he had no
wish to maintain the Slave- Trade, neither did he
wish to store riches. All he required was to have
sufficient income to pay his officers and caboceers--
the usual quantity of cowries to ptesent his people
with, as is usual at the annual custom. This was
the full extent of his ambition.

I then proposed to him that he should extend
agriculture, and establish a permanent trade,
which would be encouraged by all civilized
nations ; and observed, that by imposing a slight
duty upon all articles of trade, besides the profits
he might obtain, a revenue would be created for
him much superior to what he derived from the
slave-dealing. He replied, that he was very willing
to adopt the proposed measure if England would
only make some proposals to him on the subject.
I explained at some length the nature and sys-
tem of trade, with which he was quite unacquainted.
He remarked that he had been informed, we had
condescended to make treaties with and had sent
missionaries to the Calabar and Bonny rivers, to
the petty chiefs of those places, whose treaties
could be of no permanent duration or benefit, as

n2

268 TRAVELS m

they possessed no territorj^ nor had they any fixed
laws ; besides, they were always involved in wars
with the petty neighbouring states ; so that they
were often chiefs to-day, and had their heads cut
off the next; that they could neither ensure any
permanent trade with us, nor afford us any protec-
tion in the event of our establishing factories at
any of these places.

He said he should be ready and very glaid to
make any reasonable arrangement with the Eng-
lish Government for the abolition of slavery, and
the establishment of another trade, and added, that
though he had invited us to send missionaries to
his country to advise with him, none but one Eng-
lish fetishman, Mr. Freeman, the Wesleyan mis-
onary (of whom he spoke highly), iiad visited him;
that all he wanted was to see plenty of English-
men in his kingdom, and especially in his capital
He also offered to build them houses to live in,
without any charge, and give them as much land
as they chose to cultivate.

He expressed his ardent desire to encourage
cultivation and a system of agriculture ; and
reminded me, that he had long ago issued or-
ders that all the spare land in and round the
town of Griwhee (Whydah) should be cultivated

WESTERN AFRICA. 269

with a view of lessening the chances of epidemic
diseases. He also expressed his earnest desire to
give up Whydah to the English Government, with
full powers to exercise our own laws and customs ;
and also declared his readiness to afford us every
necessary assistance and protection, and to give us
any quantity of land in the vicinity of that settle-
ment we might require for agricultural purposes.
He added, that when we should have ob-
tained possession of Whydah, we should have
power t(f use our own discretion respecting the
Slave-Trade ; and that, as Whydah was the
principal residence of the greatest slave-dealers
on this part of the coast, we could with much
more propriety exert our authority to prevent
alave traflSc than he himself, particularly as
he was under great obligations to a certain
large slave-merchant in that settlement. He
said, moreover, that he had always entertained
a hope that some day or other the English would
t^ain establish themselves in Whydah, in con-
sequence of which he had always kept a tem-
porary governor in the English fort since our
abandonment of the place.

He declared that he would build us a new fort>
either on the old site, or on any other spot, upon

270 TRAVELS IN

our own plan, and at his own expense. He had^
he said; reflised possession of Wbydah to the
Prince de Joinville, stating his determination to
treat with none but the Queen of England^ who
was the greatest of all white sovereigns ; that he
had for a length of time been endeavouring to
establish, as far as he was able, a code of laws
similar to those of England ; for he c(Hisidered
them to be more just in most cases than the old
Dahoman laws, which he confessed to be very*
absurd. But, though he thought so, still as
many of the old, absurd customs, which ^till
existed, were of a comparatively harmless nature,
he had hitherto permitted them to remain, as he
considered it dangerous amongst a people so
long accustomed to these usages to revolutionize
the whole at once ; but he approved of commenc-
ing with the most unreasonable and injurious,
and graduallj progressing, as in fact he had
done. He also assured me that the good effects
of his new laws were manifest even in the Mahee
country, for within the last two years several
petty kingdoms in that and the Annagoo country
had voluntarily been ceded to his government.

He dictated to me a letter to the Secretary
of State for the Colonies, in which he formally

WESTERN AFRICA. 271

ceded Whydah to the English Government. After
this letter was concluded, he requested me to read
it over, lest any mistake should have occurred ; and
when he found it satisfactory, he held the upper
end of the pen while I signed his name. We then
drank to the health of her Britannic Majesty, dur-
ing which a constant fire of musketry was kept
up. I next proposed the King of Dahomey's health,
which was followed by his drinking my own health.
He then ordered an immense quantity of varie-
gated umbrellas, or rather canopies, to be brought
out for my inspection, and requested me to make
a memorandum of several of their patterns, desiring
me to order a number of them to be sent from
England^

He afterwards showed me about forty tobes of the
most costly embroidery in gold and silver, on a
ground of silk velvet of various colours. I was
also shown a piece of patch-work, which I
believe I have previously aUuded to, which the
King boasted was composed of remnants or speci-
mens of cloth from every country of the civilized
world, as well as every country in Africa. This
piece of patch-work, I was informed, measures
one thousand yards in length, and eight yards in
breadth. I was next desired to take a drawing of

272 TRAVELS IN

the King's throne, or chair of state. This is a
very handsome and ingenious piece of carving,
from one solid piece of wood. It has three seats,
one elevated about two feet above the other, the
first and second forming steps to the highest;
on the highest the King never sits except on state
occasions. Three skulls form a foot-stool to the
first seat, being those ofthreekingB killed in battle.

I

WESTERN AFRICA. 273

CHAPTER XII.

ConyerBation with the King of Dahomey continued — Vieit Coo-
massie, another Palace of the King — Great Number of Human
Skulls — Skulls of Kings taken in Battle — Death-drums —
Peculiarity of Skulls— Craniums of the Fellattahs — Skulls
of Rival Kings — Criminal Case heard by the King, and his
Award — ^Death of my Servant Maurice — Regret of the King-
Christian Burial of my Servant — The King's Kindness to me —
My increasing Illness and Depression of Spirits — Method of Pro-
curing Food in the Bush by the Dahoman Soldiers — My Alarm
at the Dangerous State of my Wound—Make Preparations to
amputate my Limb — My Recovery — My last Conversation
with the King — The King's Presents to the Queen of England
— Present from him to her M^esty of a Native Girl — Escorted
out of Abomey, and Departure for Whydah — Absurd Custom —
Canamina — Ahgrimah — My Pigeons from the Kong Moun-
tains — Non-Arrival of some of my Carriers — Punishment
awarded them for their Roguery on their Arrival.

August 26th. — ^The King again sent for me to
visit him at the palace. He met me in his usual
familiar manner, with a hearty shake of the hand^
and a familiar slap on my back with his open
hand. A table had been already spread with the
necessary viands. He proposed the Queen of
England^s health ; after which he wished me to
proceed to a large palace, about a mile distant,
called Coomassie, (after the capital of Ashantee),

n;j

274 TRAVELS IN

there to take the plan and dimensions of a number
of different sized war tents. These displayed inge-
nuity and taste, superior to many European nations.
The T'^JTig ordered a number similar to them to
be made in England, and sent to him as soon as
possible. This palace was built and named about
the time when the present King threw off his
allegiance to the kingdom of Ashantee, the King
of which formerly boasted that he could hold
Dahomey in vassalage.

After the building of this palace, the King
of Dahomey declared himself capable of holding
Ashantee in vassalage. The palace is considered
memorable on this account. In this as well
in several other palaces we visited on this day,
we were entertained with every variety of luxu-
ries used at the King^s table. Upon my return
to his Majesty, I found a number of people
busily employed in carrying out of the stores
a number of human skulls, taken in various
countries during the wars. Previous to my
journey into the mountains, I had made a request
to the King for leave to inspect a few skulls
of natives of the different countries he had con-
quered, with the view of comparing them, and
also to make drawings of some of them.

L

WESTERN AFRICA. 275

When between two and three thousand skulls
had been carried out and placed in the parade-
ground in front of the palace^ I begged the King
not to send for anv more. His state chair was
placed in the centre of a circle, formed by arrang-
ing the large calabashes or gourds containing the
skulls, in that form. The heads of the kings
were placed in large brass pans, about two feet in
diameter. The heads of caboceers and headmen
were in calabashes about the same size as the
former; and to my great astonishment, when
curiosity prompted me to make inquiry re-
specting any one of these skulls, a long detail
was immediately given me of all the circum-
stances connected with the parties when alive.

Though these people do not write, with the
exception of the Mohammedan portion of them,
yet they possess very retentive memories. The
death-drums were also brought out on this occa-
sion. They were four in number, and of different
sizes, but much larger than the large drums in
use in the British army. The largest measured
nine feet four inches in length, and the whole
were ornamented with human skulls, several of
which I observed were deficient of any suture
across the upper part. This appeared in the

276 TBAYELS TH

proportion of one in twelve^ and the skulls without
any longitudinal division were as one in twenty-
seven. I found the skulls of the Mahees gene-
rally to recede from the nasal bone or lower part
of the forehead to the top in a greater angle than
those of any other country.

The Fellattahs are very diflFerent in their cra-
nium and general development from the others,
having high, square foreheads, and a quick and
bright eye. They are slighter in person than either
the Dahomans or Mahees ; but are generally
well formed, sinewy in their limbs, and capable
of enduring great fatigue. The Dahomans are a
very fine and generally tall race of people, both
male and female, and the most honest of any
people I ever met with.

It is worthy of remark, that unlike any other
uncivilized people I have seen, during my stay at
Abomey I was never asked by any individual for an
article of even the most trifling value, nor ever lost
anything, except what was stolen by my people from
the coast. The Dahoman laws are certainly severe,
but they have the desired eflFect. In the collection
of skulls, I found a number of them ornamented
with brass^ and rivetted together with iron. These
were the heads of rival kings^ who were killed by

mtmm^v^^

WESTERN AFRICA, 277

the King^s women, or wives. Amongst these
-was the richly ornamented skull of the King of
Nahpoo, in the Annagoo country ; his name was
Adaffb. His toMm was taken, and he himself
made prisoner, by the female regiments, com-
manded by the female commander, Apadomey.
Many of the skulls stiU retained the hair. It
appears that this part of the human body has
always been a favourite ornament on the palace-
walls of Abomey, and even iu the walls, entrance
of gateways,* and doorways ; though the present
King has not placed them on the walls of the new
palace called Coomassie.

A guard is mounted every morning at each of the
palaces, and there is a resident governor. After
taking several drawings of the skidls of several
kings killed in war, his Majesty invited me to be
present at the trial of a prisoner who had been
brought from a town in the Mahee country,
where he had already been tried, upon an accu-
sation of adultery with one of the caboceers'
wives, and the sentence of death had been
passed upon him. The man, however, being
conscious of his innocence, appealed to the Court
of Abomey, where all the witnesses were again
examined and cross-questioned by the King him-

278 TRAVELS IN

self. It was now distinctly proved that tile whole
was a false accusation^ and the poor fellow was
immediately liberated ; but the caboceer, who
had been his accuser^ and fourteen of his false
witnesses^ were seized and imprisoned for trial on
a future day, when doubtless the whole of them
would suffer death.

The King, with great satisfaction, pointed out to
me the beneficial eflfects of this new law which he
had made, observing that formerly, in the Mahee
country, when a caboceer felt animosity against
a person in his power, he could at any time get
up an accusation against him, and also ensure such
evidence as would suit his purpose ; but that now
the accused had the power of appealing to the court
of Abomey, which had been the means of eflPec-
tually checking such practices, as he invariably
put the accusers to death when he found the
accused to be innocent.

As I felt very unwell and feverish, I begged
the King to allow me to return to my quarters,
which he readily acceded to, and with his usual
kindness inquired if he could do any thing for
me. He walked with me nearly to my dwelling,
during which a continual fire of musketry was
kept up until I entered my own gates.

WESTERN AFRICA. 279

I found my servant, Maurice, still weaker, and
could not prevail on him to partake of any nou-
rislmient. It was now evident that his earthly
career was near its termination. I asked him if
he would like me to read prayers to him; and
intimated to him the near approach of his disso-
lution. He consented to my reading prayers;
but said, he thought he should recover. I asked
him to give me his father's address, so that in
the event of his death I might write to him;
but, for what reason I am at a loss to imagine,
he revised to give it me, but confessed that he
had been using a false name ; and that his father's
name was not Maurice. He expressed a wish
to be carried to Whydah, which was speedily
arranged to be done on the following morning.
My fever increasing, I was now compelled to go
to bed.

Early on the 27th August the carriers re-
ported themselves ready to proceed with Maurice
to Whydah. By this time, my fever had so
increased, that from giddiness I was unable to
stand without assistance ; and poor Maurice, being
brought in upon the hammock, proved to be in
a dying state ; and in a few minutes afterwards
expired without a struggle. A messenger was

280 TRAVELS IN

immediately sent to the King to inform him of
the melancholy fact, who expressed extreme re-
gret at it, remarking, that he feared the occur-
rence might prevent other Englishmen from visit-
ing him ; but I told him that it was the will of
God, and that no person was to blame ; on the
contrary, that every thing had been done which
our means aflforded. The King then ordered
four men to dig a grave for Maurice, and sent me
a flask of rum to give the carriers and grave-
diggers. He also sent two fine cloths to wrap the
body in. He would not allow it to be interred
in the sepulchre appointed for strangers, but it
was buried in the court-yard in front of Mayho's
house, with every mark of respect.

Great attention was paid by all the spectators
during the burial-service, which I read. I was
now left without a white man, and, for a moment,
I felt the loneliness of my situation. This me-
lancholy feeling was augmented by my severe
indisposition. My wounded leg began to swell
and to become discoloured. In the afternoon,
the King sent for me to come and see him, if
possible. I felt myself unable to walk, but was
carried in a hammock to the palace. The King
seemed in great trouble at my illness. He told

^

WESTERN AFRICA. 281

me that he had sent for me to show me an ele-
phant which had been killed by one of Mayho^s
soldiers. He wished to know if I could preserve
a part of it to take with me to Whydah, for
which place I intended to proceed in a few days.
I told him that I was a&aid I could not preserve
it, so as to be able to carry it with me ; he pro-
mised to send me a dish of the flesh for my din-
ner on the following day.

He begged me to join in drinking the health of
the Queen of England, and the whole of the Royal
Family, in cherry brandy, which he strongly recom-
mended as beneficial in all cases of fever* This I
did : he then informed me that he had a regiment
of female soldiers (his wives), as well as a regiment
of males, on the parade in front of the palace,
waiting to show me how they procured their food
when in the bush.

At that moment, I felt myself a much fitter
subject for my mat or bed; but, as this parade
was got up entirely for my gratification, I deter-
mined to remain as long as possible. Accordingly,
I accompanied the King to the parade-ground,
where we found the male and female soldiers
formed in line, with front and rear ranks, the

282 TRAVELS IX

latter on the right. At seventy yards^ distance
from their front was a high swish, or clay wall,
parallel with the Une of soldiers. Close to this
were fastened, by pegs driven into the ground,
a number of sheep, goats, ducks, guinea-fowls,
and the common fowl. The whole were placed in.
that position for the purpose of illustrating the
method by which the army procured its food,
when on march in the bush, which abounds
with game. Each of the soldiers was armed either
with a long Danish or English musket, charged
with iron bullets.

The females commenced firing from the right,
advancing one pace to the front in succession, as
they came to the present. I was certainly much
surprised to see the certainty of their deadly aim.
Although at seventy yards distance, very few
missed their object ; and I did not observe one
who fired wide of a man^s body. The female
commanders presented me with eight large Mus-
covy ducks and some Guinea-fowls. The male
soldiers fired with even more precision than the
females, but I believe that the whole of them
were picked shots j but even if that were the
case, the feat was astonishing, and would have

L

WESTERN AFRICA. 283

done credit to our best riflemen. I became so
much exhausted and sick at the stomach at last^
that I was obliged to be immediately carried
home. My leg, also, was now very much swollen,
and darker in colour, and became very painfdl,
with every symptom of gangrene or mortification.
I confess I felt considerable alarm at observing
these symptoms so rapidly increasing. By this
time, however, I had become inured to hardships
and sufiering, and had learned to set httle value
upon my life, and could very readily have recon-
dled myself to share the same grave with poor
Maurice. My principal anxiety was respecting
my Journal, a great part of which was only in
notes ; consequently the probabihty was that my
kind and generous patrons would never get pos-
session of it, though this was the only tribute of
gratitude I should ever have it in my power to
return them. I, therefore, made up my Journal
and papers in the form of a parcel, addressed to
the Geographical Society, with strict injunctions
to my servants to forward them to Mr. Hutton of
Cape Coast.

My people were very much alarmed at my
condition, as were also Mayho and the King^s

284 TRAVELS m

messengers^ who visited me every two hours. My
leg was still rapidly getting worse, the blackness
progressing upwards. I now began to measure
my time, calculating upon my death before morn-
ing. I had seen several amputations performed,
and came to the determination to attempt to am-
putate my own leg, should it appear absolutely
necessary. In the meantime, I ordered poultices
to be prepared from Indian com meal, and yeast
from the peto. This was immediately applied.
I then had all my amputating instruments placed
in readiness, with the necessary quantity of band-
ages; and I instructed my people what they
were to do in the event of my fainting while
endeavouring to perform the operation. They did
not seem altogether to relish iny instructions, but
promised to do their best in obedience to my
orders.

It may be considered that madness alone could
have suggested such an attempt ; but it must also
be observed, that necessity under certain circum-
stances urges the performance of many things
bordering on impossibilities; and in despair we
are always ready to grasp even at a shadow of
hope.

WESTERN AFRICA. 285

However, thank God ! I had not occasion to
make the attempt. The poultices had the desired
eflfect, for in the morning the swelling was con-
siderably reduced, and the colour turned jBrom
black to a pink or hght purple colour, except
round the wound, which sloughed, and the flesh
dropped from the bone, causing much pain. May-
ho visited me early, and seemed much pleased
when I informed him of my improvement. My
spirits also were much revived, and having some
remnants of cotton print left, I made a frock for
Mayho^s youngest boy, with which he seemed very
much pleased. I also made Mayho a waistcoat of
the same material.

On the 28th I wa^ able to visit the King,
to whom I intimated a wish to depart on the
following day for Whydah. He said that he
felt very reluctant to part with me, and wished
very much that I would remain in his capital j
at the same time admitting the necessity of my
hurrying home to dehver his message to the
Queen of England, and expressing his great dis-
appointment that Mr. Freeman had not visited
him a second time. He again spoke very highly
of him, and expressed a great wish to have an

286 TRAVELS IN

English missionary and school for mechanics in his
capital. He begged me to point out the necessity
of this upon my return to England.

The King now ordered Mayho to get carriers
ready for my departure for the coast. The bul-
locks and goats^ which had been presented to me,
had been forwarded already, leaving only the
bipeds which were to accompany me when I
should leave. His Majesty sent me a present of
three pieces of royal cloth, as well as two pieces
for the Queen of England^ as specimens of their
manufacture. He also sent a very handsome
young girl as a present for Her Majesty. This
child was about seven years old, and was the
daughter of a Mahee king, killed in the late war.
He also sent me eighteen heads of cowries, valued
at the same number of dollars, to defray my ex-
penses to Whydah, and two kegs of rum to treat
my people with, with his best wishes for my wel-
fare, and hoping I should soon return to visit his
kingdom.

During the whole of my stay in Abomey I
had received the most unbounded kindness from
the Bang, as well as from his principal officers,
andj as I have before stated, I had never been

WESTERN AFRICA. 287

solicited for any thing by way of dash or present.
But I had in my possession a walking-stick, which
contained a spring dagger ; this the King seemed
to admire much, I therefore asked him to ac-
cept it as a present, for which he heartily thanked
me, saying that he should be very glad to do so
when I returned from the Kong Mountains, re-
marking that in all probability I should meet with
some very bad people while in the Mahee country.
After my return I offered him the stick, which
he again refused, saying that he would wait till I
had safely arrived at Griwhee (Whydah). He
would send a messenger with me thither for the

purpose of carrying it back to Abomey. He also

<

ordered three caboceers to accompany me on my
journey to the coast.

All was now arranged for my departure on the
following morning. I was still very weak, and
quite lame from the large wound in my leg, which
was on the lower part of the calf, four inches in
length and about one and a half in breadth ; but
my little horse had now recovered from his long
journey, and was in high condition for another.
I therefore resolved to pursue my journey, as I
had intended.

288 TRATEiiS nr

August 29th. — ^At daybreak a messenger came
before I arose firom my mat, to inquire after the
state of my health, with orders to ascertain whe-
ther I considered myself quite capable of under-
taking my journey, to which I replied in the affir-
matire. In a short time afterwards breakfast
was sent as usual, and a number of my carriers
arrived.

It is always considered consistent with court
etiquette here, as I have previously stated, that
a stranger visiting his Majesty should arrive and
depart firom the capital as nearly as possible when
the sun is at its meridian, consequently various
excuses were made to detain me till that period,
when I was escorted out of the town by my ex-
cellent old firiend Mayho, and many more of
the jprincipal men, with a band of music, till we
crossed the bridge over the moat outside the town
walls. Here I was given up to the charge of the
three caboceers before mentioned.

About two hundred yards firom the gates is a
fetish-house, in passing which all persons > are
compelled to dismount, if carried, and walk past
a certaiu distance ; but the King had very kindly
forwarded an order to the fetish-man, to allow me

WESTERN AFRICA. 289

to ride, on account of my lameness, at which
every man seemed much amazed, saying that no
man ever rode over the same ground before.

I was very much surprised to see one of my
fowls tied by the feet lying at the door of the
fetish-house, which of course led to some in-
quiries. I was informed that while the man
carrying my fowls was passing the place, this
cock had crowed, and consequently he had be-
come the property of the head fetishman. The
man who carried the basket had not proceeded
farther, but waited till I arrived, to explain the
matter. I made some objections to submit to
such a ridiculous custom, whereupon a messenger
was immediately sent to the King, who sent an
order to give up the cock, and also intimated
that it was not his wish to compel an Englishman
to observe black man's laws, remarking that
Englishmen can do no wrong.

When we arrived at Canamina we overtook
two of my carriers, who, though big, strong-look-
ing men, were quite exhausted, and unable to
proceed. Had I been furnished with female
carriers, I should have found no difficulty. How-
ever, I hired an assistant carrier, before I could

VOL. n. o

290 TRAVELS IN

get the men to proceed. After a tiresome ride,
we arrived at Ahgrimah. When dismounting
I was quite exhausted, and my leg and foot swollen
so much, that my cloth boot had burst, and I
suflPered very much for upwards of two hours from
pain in my wound. Here I was much amused with
the pigeons which I had brought from the Kong
Mountains. Though I had three different speci-
mens, all rare, they had now become so much
reconciled to each other as to be all of one family,
as it were.

Whenever we halted for the night, and they
were released from the gourd in which they were
carried, they never attempted to leave me, but
kept walking to and fro, near the spot where I
lay, till they wei'e fed ; and when darkness came
on, they huddled themselves close to my person.
I was very much annoyed here on account of
several of my carriers not arriving, particularly
as my camp-kettle had not come. I managed,
however, to get a meal from the natives.

Aug. 30th. — As soon as I awoke I inquired
after my luggage, and found that two of my
principal boxes had not arrived. Whereupon I
despatched a trusty messenger, sent by Mayho

WESTERN AFRICA, 291

to accompany me to Whydah to carry back my
coat, which I had promised that excellent old
man, being the only thing I now possessed worth
his acceptance. He hastened back to Abomey,
to report the delay to his master, who had fur-
nished the carriers. Mayho immediately sent
fresh men with orders to pnnish the villains
who had hung back, as, he said, he had himself
examined each of their loads, and found them
all considerably under the regulated weight for
carriers.

At last the men arrived, accompanied by my
messenger and fresh carriers, late in the after-
noon. Immediately on their arrival, the offenders
were brought before the caboceers for judgment ;
and, after a short palaver, they were sentenced to
be beaten with a stick as many times as I should
deem sufficient. Two men were sent into the
bush for some rods, who soon returned with five,
about one yard in length and about the thick-
ness of a man's middle finger. The offenders
were then ordered to kneel down before me to
receive their punishment ; but although they had
been the cause of much uneasiness to me, I could
not consent to such a severe mode of punishment,

o2

292 TRAVELS m

particularly as all my Dahcmian people had hi-
therto conducted themselves well; I therefore
ordered them both to be released, for they had
already been pinioned. The poor fellows were
very gratefal for this act of kindness : the
caboceers also were much gratified, and my day^s
detention was beneficial in resting my lame leg^

\

WESTERN AFRICA. 293

CHAPTER XIII.

Akpway — Superstition of tho Natives — Singular proceeding of
my Bullock-Drivers — ^Arrival at Whydah— Kind Beception by
Don Francisco de Suza — Kindness of all the Merchants — Part-
ing Interviow with M. de Suza — Sail for Cape Coast — Terror
of the Mahee Girl (presented to the Queen) at the Boughness of
the Sea — Arrival at Cape Coast — Kindness of Mr.|Hutton-^Dr.
Lilleiy — ^Recover from my Fever— Kindness of the Wesleyan
Missionaries — General Character of Africans — Hints with re-
gard to fiducating them — Observations on the Manners and
Customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries —
Enlightened Conduct of the King of Dahomey — The Dahomans
— Trade of Dahomey — Pitganism — The Mahees — The Kong
Mountains — Sail for England.

Aug. 31st. — We marched early in the morn-
ing, and about mid-day passed through Ak-
pway, and . rested for half an hour, partaking of
some refreshment ; and after marching for another
hour and a half we arrived at Whyboe, where we
halted for the night.

Sept. 1st. — In passing through a thick wood,
a tree had either fallen across the path, or been
felled down purposely, so that it with its thick
branches entirely blocked up the way. Here

294 TRAVELS IK

the whole of my party were at a stand-stiU^ and
could not be prevailed npon to remove the tree,
so as to enable them to pass^ declaring that the
fetish had placed it there for a certain purpose,
unknown to us. However, it was fortunately
only a small tree; I therefore dismounted, and
removed it sufficiently to allow us to pass. At
this the men seemed somewhat ashamed of their
credulity; but before we had proceeded much
farther, a more formidable obstacle presented
itself, which almost convinced me that some old
fetish-man had been exerting his wizard powers
to play me some unlucky cantrip. The head of a
young bull, apparently newly cut off, was placed
in the middle of the path. Upon a close inspec-
tion I found it to be the head of one of my own
bullocks, which was reported sick the day pre-
viously to my maxching from Abomey.

Nothing more worthy of notice occurred till we
approached Whydah, when, at a little distance
from that town, we met the men, who had driven
my bullocks, returning. I asked them respecting
it, and why the head was placed in the path.
They replied, that as the animal could proceed
no farther, they thought it best to kiU it, and

WESTERN Africa. 295

dispose of tlie meat in the most advantageous
manner; but lest I should suppose the animal
had not been dead^ the head had been left in the
path^ to allow me the satisfaction of ocular de-
monstration.

Upon our arrival in Whydah, according to cus-
tom, I reported my return to the caboceer, or
avoga, as he is called here, who received me
very cordially. He then accompanied me to old
Don Francisco, who had so kindly exerted his
influence with the King on my behalf in fur-
thering the objects of my travels into the interior.
Unfortunately the old man was suffering much
fix)m rheumatism, and had for several days refused
to see any one, but he readily received me. He
cardially congratulated me on my success, declar-
ing that nothing could have alSbrded him more
gratification than the news of my grand and
generous reception by the King at Abomey,
and assuring me that he should be at all times
ready to assist any Enghshman by all means in
his power. I asked him for a biU of the goods and
articles he had furnished me for presents to the
King ; but as yet the generous old man has never
furnished me with any, though they must have

296 TRAVELS IN

cost him about one hundred pounds. He also
begged me to let him know how he could further
serve me^ telling me that anything in his extensiye
stores was at my service.

Owing to M. de Suza's severe indisposition, I
made but a short stay, and hastened to the EngUsh
fort, where I found many old firiends anxiously
waiting to see me and welcome me back. Mr.
R. Hanson, agent for Mr. Hutton of Cape Coast,
with whom I Uved previously to my journey into
the interior, gave me a very cordial welcome,
and rendered me every assistance in his power,
while suffering from fever, after my return to
Whydah. I also received great kindness from
Mr. James Hanson, of Ahguay, who was on busi-
ness at Whydah, and, in fact, I experienced every
mark of civility and kindness from the gentle-
men, Americans, French, Spanish, and Portuguese,
with whom I became acquainted during my resi-
dence in Whydah.

My state of health was but little better for
some time, though the wound in my leg seemed
to improve in condition. A few days after my
return to Whydah, the Jane of London, Captain
Lee, Commander, arrived in the roadstead, to

-^-^H

WESTERN AFBICA. 297

take in goods for Mr. Hutton. The captain liad
siiflTered much from fever, but was now slowly-
recovering. To him I feel indebted for much
kindness. He afforded me, with my stock of
animals, a free passage to Cape Coast, for which
place we were to sail on the 20th of September.

The day previous to my sailing, my old friend,
De Suza, sent for me to bid me good-bye. He
was very ill in bed, and scarcely able to speak.
He begged me to let his agent know if I should
be in want of anything from his stores, and
assured me that whatever I might require was
quite at my service. I was, however, already
under so many obligations to him that I de-
clined accepting anything further, but again asked
him for my biQ, with which he declined to fur-
nish me.

At parting he shook me by the hand, and in a
low whisper bade me a long good-bye, with every
wish for my future happiness. I could not help
feeling regret at that moment that such a man
should be coupled with traffic so abominable as
that of buying and selling human beings; for
he universally bears the character of the most
generous and humane man on the coast of Africa,

o3

298 TRAVELS IN

wUch character I am also bound to give him so
far as I am concerned.

Early on the morning of the 20th Sep-
tember^ I went on board the Jane; Mr. R.
Hanson kindly rendering me every assistaace^ by
furnishing carriers for my luggage and cattle to
the beach^ which is distant two miles. The
morning was unfavourable on account of the
heavy rains. The little Mahee girl in my chaise
had never before seen the sea^ and consequently
felt much alarm. She could scarcely be urged
to go into the canoe^ though I told her she was
going back to her Abomey mother^ of whom she
was very fond. Unfortunately the sea was
very high and the sudT heavy^ and though the ca-
noemen displayed great skill in managing their
boat^ yet a sea passed completely over us &om
bow to stem^ filling it^ whioh^ but for the buoy-
ancy of the wood of which it is formed, must
have sunk. However, so long as the canoe can
be kept end on the surf, the danger is not great.
The canoes are all made from the cotton«-tree.

The little girl, who was upon her knees in the
bottom of tibe canoe, had certainly little cause to
be. pleased with a sea VSs^ and is very likely to

WESTERN AFRICA. 299

remember her first sea voyage for a long time. As
soon as tlie little creature was able^ for she was
almost suffocated by the surf^ she called out for
lier Abomey mother.

We soon got the water baled out and reached
the Jane without another washing. Captain Lee
Idndly offered me dry clothing, but the greater
part of my luggage was not yet on board, conse-
quently I remained on deck till all was safe, with
the exception of a few articles which undoubtedly
were stolen, but I may congratulate myself that
I was not a loser to a greater extent.

The ship soon got under weigh, and was shortly
afterwards boarded by H.M.S. Brig RangeVy
who kindly offered me medical aid. On the fol-
lowing day I had a severe attack of fever, but,
through Captain Lee^s kind attention, I suffered
comparatively little, though from so many recent
attacks I was extremely weak and reduced in
flesh. Our progress was very slow, owing to the
foul winds and strong head currents. On the
following day the boats of the Flying Fish, Enghsh
war-^brig, boarded us, and remained on board
Dearly the whole of the day, preparing letters for
England, for which the Jane was shortly to. sail.

300 TRAVELS IN

On the 22d the brig herself bore down upon
us. She was on a sharp look-out for a crack
slaver, which was expected daily on her iirst trip,
of which the commander had received private
information. This vessel I afterwards learned
was captured by the Flying Fishy in spite of the
slaver's boasted sailing qualities, and fighting
captain, of whom they much vaunted, but they
generally fall short when opposed to British
(pirates, as the slave-dealers term them) ships-
of-war.

On the 27th we anchored off Cape Coast Castle,
and were soon recognised by the officers of the
fort and other gentlemen merchants of the town,
who are generally on the look-out for fresh arri-
vals. I was met upon landing by the officers of
the garrison, and Mr. Hutton, who had always
been a very kind friend to me. The officers invited
me to become an honorary member of their mess,
though all but one were entire strangers to me,
having been changed during my absence from
Cape Coast. I returned, however, to my old quar-
ters with Mr. Hutton, where every attention ancL
kindness were shown me during the remaining
time I was on the coast, during the last few

WESTERN AFRICA. 301

weeks of which I suflfered much from fever and
ague^ accompanied with diarrhoea^ which nearly
terminated my earthly career. During this latter
period I was invited into the Castle by the acting
governor, Dr. Lilley, who was also Colonial Sur-
geon.

I was there under his immediate treatment,
which was no doubt beneficial, though I found
that the use of strong medicines acted powerfully
upon my constitution, and therefore determined
to be guided entirely by the dictates of nature.
My attacks were both violent and frequent;
every second day for some time, the interval
gradually increasing. As soon as I found the
ague about. to commence I lay down and covered
myself with as many clothes as I could obtain,
and so soon as the shivering ceased, of course
violent fever succeeded, accompanied with intole-
rable thirst. T always arranged to have a quantity
of water placed near my bedside ; and generally
drank half-a-pint every five minutes. Thirteen or
fourteen half-pints generally produced copious
perspiration, and the fever soon decreased. The
only effect I experienced from numerous repeti-
tious of this treatment wa« weakness, probably

302 TRAVBLS nr

firom excesflXYe perspiratioiL. I would neyer re-
commend bathing in cold water while subject to
attacks of fever and agae^ as I found by a series of
experiments in my own person : it is very likely
to strengthen the fever and ague. I make no
pretensions to advise medically^ but merely state
facts from personal experience^ considering it a
duly to my fellow-creatures^ to state anything
which might be beneficial to mankind while in
that pestilential climate.

I must not omit to mention the kindness of the
Rev. T. B. Freeman^ and other members of the
Wesleyan mission estabUshed on the coast^ and
also of the Rev. William Hanson^ the Colonial
chaplain^ as well as his amiable lady. I owe a
debt of gratitude to the whole of the merchants
on the coast, whether native or British, for
I experienced the utmost kindness from all of
them ; and although I have been bound to speak
unfavourably of the uncivilized African, it must
be remembered that all barbarous nations are
similar as £ar as regards honesly and industry. I
trust, however, that no uncharitable conclusion
may be drawn from the plain statement of
facts which fell under my own observation. It

/

WESTERN AFRICA. 303

is void of all prejudice, for my beUef is that
were Africans educated, and their morals properly
attended to, they would become an example
to countries who have for centuries enjoyed the
advantages of civilization. To many of them I
must confess myself under considerable obliga-
tions, which I shall ever remember with feelings
of gratitude ; though I am convinced, that a
partial education, by merely reading the Scrip-
tures, (unaccompanied by any school-books, such
as books of history or mechanics,) more par-
ticularly when the meaning is not thoroughly
explained to them in their own language, is of
comparatively Uttle benefit.

Our missionaries have no doubt many difficulties
to contend with : first, because the English language
is entirely new to the natives, so that besides learn-
ing to pronounce the words, they have also to learn
the meaning of each word. Another drawback
is, that when out of school the greater part of the
children are mixed up with the uneducated popu-
lation, and never use the English language except
when in school. They are also exposed to every
vice in practice, so that in many instances a

304 TRAVELS IN

partifd education is only the means of enabling
them to become more perfect in villany.

I cannot help thinking that if missionary schools
were situated in some healthy situation at a little
distance from the towns^ and schools of industry
were established in conjunction with them^ the
most beneficial results would follow. The boys
intended to become mechanics should be selected
according to their abilities^ and be allowed to
make choice of their trade. The school would
in a short time support itself^ and the variety
of occupations would relieve the monotony of
instruction in one branch of education alone.

At present, when the young men have obtained
an imperfect education, that is to say, a knowledge
of reading and writing, with a slight knowledge of
figures, they consider themselves of too inuch
importance to accept a menial employment^ and
being unacquainted with any trade, their first
object is to seek to become agents or clerks to our
European merchants, the number of whom are
comparatively few, and employment consequently
cannot be given to many. In many instances
these parties obtain goods on credit, either from

WESTERN AFRICA. 305

the resident merchants or from the American
trading captains^ and then consider themselves
to be great men, and that they must keep
up an establishment, which they frequently do,
considerably beyond their means. The result of
this is, that in a short time they find themselves
involved in debt beyond any chance of redemption.
The value of the goods is then soon squandered
away, and the would-be merchant is compelled to
retire into the bush, or to some other place of
secrecy, where the rest of his life is spent in
swindling and villany.

Before concluding my Narrative I would make
a few observations upon the manners and customs
of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah coun-
tries, with the amendments made in his own
territories by the present intelligent and generous
King of Dahomey. The most important of these is
the abolition, in a great measure, of human sacri-
fices. These are now only tolerated in the execution
of culprits condemned to death for offences of the
gravest character. The King has entirely abolished
the power of his caboceers to make human sacri-
fices, and only allows them to sacrifice the lower

306 TRAVELS IN

animals. Next I may mention his entire revision
of the criminal as well as petty laws of his kingdom ;
and the establishment of a court of appeal at Abo-
mey in cases of dissatisfaction or injustice. The
King has also much improved the condition of tlie
Dahoman army. The whole of the Mahee country
is now subject to Dahomey.

The Dahcmians are generally a fine intelligent
race of people, both the male and female. Guinea
worm, or elephantiasis, does not exist in either
the Dahoman, Mahee, or FeUatah coimtries.
The average height of the Dahoman males is
about five feet nine inches, and they are well
proportioned. They are much more industrious
than the natives of Whydah, or other parts on
the coast, and are good farmers, and take much
care in rearing stock. There are several Moors
resident in Abomey, but whether voluntarily or
not, I was unable to learn; but should suppose
they were originally prisoners, from the fact of
their refusing information respecting their migra-
tion. In fact, individuals from all the tribes of
Central Africa may be found in Abomey.

The trade of Dahomey is chiefly in palm-oil.

WESTERN AFRICA. 307

Ivory is seldom brought to the coast^ except when
smuggled^ owing to the heavy duty imposed upon
it. The manufactures are limited^ cloth being
the only article; but they excel in that article.
The kingdom of Dahomey is chiefly level; the
soil rich red loam ; and, except in the immediate
vicinity of the capital, tolerably well watered*
Gold is as abundant there as in the Ashantee
country, but, owing to the slave-trade, it is seldom
inquired after.

The kingdom of Dahomey originally extended
no farther in a northern direction than the river
Zoa, or Lagos, between the seventh and eighth de-
grees of north latitude. In marching in a north-
easterly direction from Abomey, the first of the
Kong Mountains is situated in latitude 8® &0'
north, and extends in the same direction as far
as 9° 30', although mountains of less magnitude
are met with of the table form, at intervals, as far
as 13« 6' north.

The Mahee people are lighter in colour than
the Dahomans, and are very active and hardy,
lively in their ^disposition, but said to be very
revengeful; although, as I was under the pa-
tronage of the King, I did not observe any thing

308 TRAVELS m

in their characters which manifested this. The
females are considerably smaller than those of
Dahomey^ and may be called rather good-looking^
and^ like the Dahomans^ are very chaste ; though^
as in the former country, polygamy is tolerated to
any extent. They are all Pagans here, as well as in
Dahomey. Though many Mohamedans are to be
found in the army of the latter, they are never
interfered with in their religious opinions.

Formerly the government of the kingdom
of Dahomey was despotic, still the country has
a much more civilized appearance than the petty
states under repubhcan governments, which are
generally involved in disputes and wars.

The Mahees appear to be a distinct people,
independently of the difference of colour. The
general formation of their head differs consider-
ably firom others. It is generally elongated from
the ear backwards, and the philoprogenitive
organ is very prominent. The frontal bone is
seldom divided, and in many instances the upper
part of the skull, as I have previously stated, is
without any division whatever ; but this is also
the case in the Dahomans.

The chin of the Mahees is generally shorter

WESTERN AFRICA. 309

than that of the Dahomans^ or people near the
coast ; their lips are not so thick ; their teeth are
very good, and they take great pains in cleaning
them, which is generally the case on the whole of
the west coast, where it is a universal custom,
when not otherwise employed, to brush the
teeth with the end of what they term a chew-
stick, generally a piece of the branch of the
gwaba, about the length and thickness of a black-
lead pencil. They consider ' that chewing this
kind of wood prevents thirst. Probably, from the
acid which it contains, it is superior to any other
sort of tooth-brush.

On many parts of the west coast they sharpen
the two front teeth in the upper jaw by filing, or
grinding oflF the angles, so as to bring them to a
narrow point. The Mahee and Fellattah skuUs I
found lighter and thinner than the Annagoos, or
Dahomans, or those on the coast, many of the
latter being as thick as half an inch in the hinder
part of the skull, and of a spongy or porous
nature. The nose of the Mahees does not partake
in the slightest degree of the negro, but strongly
resembles that of Europeans. They excel in their
manufactures, which are composed of cloth, and

310 TRAVELS IN

knitted night-caps^ made exactly on the same
principle as in England. They are also clever in
the manufacture of iron^ and are well acquainted
with native dyes.

The natives, both of Dahomey and Mahee, are
very temperate. They are excellent cooks. Their
dishes are generally soups, containing various
vegetables, amongst which is a gelatine pod of an
oblong form, called occro. This is considered
very strengthening. I believe it might be culti-
vated in Great Britain. It grows on a plant very
much resembling the stramonium. Their fer*
mented drink is peto, a native beer, which I have
already described. They attain a greater age
than in flat, low countries ; and are very in-
dustrioua in comparison with many neighbouring
countries. The King of Dahomey enforces culti-
vation over all his dominions.

The general composition of the Kong Mouu-
tains, occupied by the Mahees, is granite, hme-
stone, marble, and iron-stone. On the plains
or valleys I found, protruding above the surface,
large masses of fused iron mixed with round
pebbles. Several fragments I broke off, which
were nearly as heavy as the pure ore. The out-

WESTERN AFRICA. 311

side of these masses had a glazed appearance.
From the north to the south side this chain
of mountains does not exceed forty-five or fifty
miles. The principal animals occupying the Kong
Mountains I have already noticed.

The Fellattahs are a different race to either the
Dahomans or Mahees. They are a more warlike
people than the Mahees; are light and active in
their movements, very courageous, but also
revengefiil and stubborn, though I have been
informed, that in a body they cannot fight a
losing battle. They are much intermixed with
other tribes, and hold great sway, occupying a
very extensive territory, supposed to extend from
eight degrees west longitude to Bomou, and also
a considerable distance north and south. The
real Fellattahs are much darker than the Mahees,
with high square frontal bone and well-propor-
tioned head, in general ; hair, thick and woolly.
They are more civiUzed and ingenious than the
Mahees or Dahomans, and are also good farmers.
Even the system of drainage has found its way
to this remote region, many of their indigo fields
being well drained, as also those in the Mahee
country. Their trade is not very extensive, being

312 TRAVELS IN

chiefly confined to their own locality^ and is
generally a system of barter, though cowries and
cloth are the general currency of the country.
Their mode of living is much the same as in the
Mahee country, but they use less hogs' flesh, and
they eat both horses and dogs, and also several
species of serpents, frogs, and guanos.

I sailed from Cape Coast for England in
February, 1846. Previous to my going on boards
I had many little presents sent me, both in the
shape of sea-stores and keepsakes, from the mer-
chants and natives in their employment, as well
as from the resident Missionaries. I also received
some little necessaries from a party of Missionaries
who visited Cape Coast on their way to the Calabar,
or Bonny River, in one of Mr. Jamieson's ships ;
I beheve one of them was Mr. Waddel. Our
vessel was the Albion of Guernsey, a small
schooner of only one hundred and fifty tons;
in my precarious state of health, therefore, I was
very uncomfortable.

After leaving Cape Coast we called at Accra,
and took onboard some ivory and gold, remaining
at the above place one day and a night. During
this time I went on shore to visit some of my old

WESTERN AFRICA. 313

firiends, amongst whom was Mr. Bannerman^
whose kindness and hospitality are well known,
both to the naval and military officers who have
ever visited that settlement. I was also kindly
received by the resident Wesleyan Missionary.

Here I found an American Missionary and his
wife, accompanied by the widow of a brother
Missionary, lately deceased. Poor woman! she
was apparently fast approaching to her long home.
They were all in delicate health, and were passing
down the coast for a change of air, but were
obliged to leave the vessel.

During my stay I received extreme kindness
and attention at the mission-house. I also called
at the former residence of Mr. Hanson, a mer-
chant lately deceased. His brother, the Chaplain
of Cape Coast, and Mr. R. Hanson from Why-
dah, were both there. From these gentlemen I
experienced great kindness, both now as well as on
former occasions. Here I again found my old
charger, who had carried me during my long jour-
ney in the interior. He was now the property of
the Rev. William Hanson, and had only arrived
a few days before from Whydah. It had probably
been taken little care of, for the poor animaT was

VOL, II. P

314 TRAYELS IN WESTERN AFRICA.

much reduced in flesh. It recognised mj yoice^
and when I spoke^ it immediately neighed and
pawed the ground^ anxious to come to me.

Mr. Hanson^ its owner, asked me to put a pair
of fore-shoes on it, remarking that it was the
last act of kindness I should ever have an oppor-
tunity of bestowing upon the noble Uttle animal.
This I readily assented to: after which I pro-
ceeded on board, when we immediately set sail
for England ; where, after a tedious and uncom-
fortable passage of three months, we arrived. I
had much improved in health during the passage,
though my acconmiodation was bad, for I was
obliged to sleep on deck during six weeks of the
time, owing to the suffocating smell from the
heated com, amongst which some of the pahn-oil
puncheons had bixrst.

RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER,

As OBSBBYBD IN DaHOMBT FROM JuiTE 11 TO JuLT 7, 1846.

Rise and Fall
during Day, l^om 6 a.m.

to 6 P.M.

Remarks.

Date.

Rise.
Deg.

80
82
81
82
80
81

80

82
80
81
78
78
78
82
77
81
82
82
79
82
82
80
77

82

81

80
82

1

FalL

Deg.
76

78
76
76
77
76

74

76
74
74
74
74
76
76
76
74
73
73
74
73
74
73
78

78

70
73

June 11
» 12
„ 18
„ H
„ 16
„ 16

„ 17
„ 18

„ 19
„ 20

„ 21
„ 22
„ 23
„ 24
„ 26
„ 26
„ 27
„ 28
„ 29
„ 30
July 1
„ 2
„ 3

„ 6

„ 7

In house, against clay wall.

In house.

Ditto.

Ditto.

Ditto.

Ditto.

( Heavy tornado at 2 p.m.; fall suddenly

\ to 740.

[and rainy season.
Unusually cold ; nativos feverish ; cold
Cloudy.
Cloudy.

Morning cloudy.

Cold and showery all day ; tornado.
Cloudy in the evening ; very dark night.
Wind; storm.
Heavy shower.

Cold rainy night ; wind west.
Very windy, and unusually steady.
Slight showers ; wind west.
Showers in the morning ; day cloudy.
/ Heavy tornado i lightning and thunder
\ heavy.

L This day temperature changeable
< during a tomaido, the heaviest seen ;
f thermometer fell to 70®.
Unusually cold in the morning.

THE EN1\

LONDON:
ft. CLAT, PftlNTKBy BftSAD STREET UILL.

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A fine is incurred by retaining it
beyond the specified time.

le return promptly.

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,A.